7Agte 20V Blacktop

[_FNQ_rolla_]

Found some time during the week to clean up the threads on the block before putting the studs in.

 

 

 

Hope to do a little more over the weekend.

[_FNQ_rolla_]

Hi all,

 

On the weekend I made a thicker spring retainer (about 2.5mm) for the oil pump, this will up the oil pressure before the relief valve opens which will pump the oil up to the head where it is needed (from past experiences I should be seeing an oil pressure of about 60 – 70 psi). I also ported/chamfered the openings on the oil pump so it is less restrictive.

 

Not the best pic to show how thick the spring retainer is

 

 

 

 

I know this does not seem like much but in the past I have broken oil pumps with big revs but after this little trick I have had any more broken pump gears. Here is a picture of an oil pump that I broke about 4 years back.

 

 

 

Edited April 20, 2011 by _FNQ_rolla_

[Jesseb369]

Love it :D

[Jesseb369]

hey man, whats the progress for this week :D

[_FNQ_rolla_]

Hi there,

Nothing happened due to Easter break (went camping at Undara Lava tubes ~ it was cool as some of the Lava tubes had water in them and we could have swim in them, the guide said that it is rare to have water in the Lava tubes).

 

I do not think I will get a chance to do anything this weekend either (being May day long weekend) as I am heading up the lake skiing.

 

Next on the list is to cc the pistons and the swept cc volume so I can figure out if I need to deck the block and or cc the combustion chambers of the head.

 

Thanks for showing some interest.

[_FNQ_rolla_]

What compression ratio do I have, this is what I got up to on the weekend.

 

I ran a tap down the threads of the mains to make sure the were clean and fitted the ARP Main studs

 

 

Fitted the crank with assembly grease and torque down to specification.

 

 

Measuring equipment for finding out the compression ratio.

 

 

Soluble Oil was used for the measuring fluid

 

 

I measure the piston dish using a syringe and a piece of plastic with some grease smeared around to seal the plastic to the piston.

 

 

 

 

 

Dissembled rod and pistons laid out and inspected before assembling.

 

 

 

Bolted the rods to the crank (ARP bolts) with assembly grease and torque down to specification. Next I turned the motor over by hand a few times to make sure nothing was fowling against anything. The main thing I was checking on was where I machined the block to fit the 4AGE oil squirters. Now that everything was OK I turned the block over to work out the swept volume of the piston.

 

 

With all of these measurements and taking into consideration the thickness of the head gasket (and the head cc) I worked out the compression. Then I striped the block back to nothing.

This afternoon I took the block to a local engineer to skim a little bit more of the top to give it a compression ratio that I am after for boost (hope to get this back on Wednesday).

 

The head was sent to Rams head service for a CNC port and polish and I told Darren (from Rams) what I wanted the cc of the head to be. I'm hoping I will get the head back this week.

 

And lastly I picked up the exhaust manifold plate (12mm) this afternoon that was drawn up on CAD.

 

 

 

 

This is the start for the Turbo manifold.

All for now

[Crowie55]

Coming along great man, nice work as always keep it up :y:

[_FNQ_rolla_]

About 2 months back I sent the inlet manifold and head off to Sydney for a CNC port job. I also asked for;

Oversize intake valves

Oversize exhaust valves

Throat oversize (behind the valves opened up to mach the bigger valves)

Spring kit & titanium retainers

Intake copper seats

And to match port the inlet manifold to the head.

 

Couple of pictures before and after.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I got all of this back last week, stay tuned !

[_FNQ_rolla_]

On the weekend I had the chance to put all of this together.

 

I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

 

 

Comparing the standard HG to the new Toda before assembling.

 

 

 

 

Adjustable exhaust cam pulley with the standard VVT intake pulley to help out with the spooling up of the turbo. The cams have a bigger lift and a longer duration hehe.

 

 

But wait there is more!

Edited May 16, 2011 by _FNQ_rolla_

[greenmac80]

WTF!!! i missed out somewhere... you haven't ever said what the motor was.. here i was thinking you were polishing a k motor crankshaft!!!

lol looking awesome.

 

very interested to see the power output.. long while back i had planned to build a high comp turbo 20v 9000rpm tdo4 got to the point of

having everything mounted and the block ready for internals.. even shimmed the oil pump same as you have etc. but lost the funds and decided to can the project.

[_FNQ_rolla_]

Hey there Greenmac80, Well your the first one that has asked WTF is it (no one has picked up on why I have been machining the block.

 

The answer to your Question is the block is a 7A high comp turbo 20v that will be capable to spin up to 9000rpm.

 

I looking at going with the Borg Warner EFR turbo.

[greenmac80]

awesome dude... thought about going for a better timing belt?? hks or gates?

 

yeah and i was wondering why the oil squirters being put in... 20v already has em.. had me confused i tell ya.

 

glad to see your keeping the vvt... i wonder if you could mod the switch to be progressive so vvt-i?

[_FNQ_rolla_]

glad to see your keeping the vvt... i wonder if you could mod the switch to be progressive so vvt-i?

 

Looked into this but all the switch does is activates a solenoid that opens or closes the oil to the VVT gear.

 

*Edit* Built one of these years ago and the standard Toyota belt did the trick fine.

Edited May 16, 2011 by _FNQ_rolla_

[_FNQ_rolla_]

Here is a few more pictures of the thing fully assembled.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stay tuned

[Jesseb369]

Your an ass. If I knew yesterday you were building a 7agte I would have.... I dunno! :D