rb20 rolla Posted April 25, 2010 Author Report Posted April 25, 2010 i think keeping it a single cam would take the height down around the cam area it is about 20mm from cam cover to the bonnet.. Quote
rb20 rolla Posted May 5, 2010 Author Report Posted May 5, 2010 (edited) some photos of the coilovers and brakes they are ae86 coilovers all round the rear are not coilover but they have the same amount of adjustment... i was told they bolt straight in an they did but the strut tube has to be welded and a ke70 strut tube is 45mm and a the coilovers for a ae86 are 50mm so i had to make a sleeve up so having ae86 struts will help out...the brakes are bmw 7 series 300mm rotors with skyline 4 piston calipers.. Edited August 8, 2010 by rb20 rolla Quote
rb20 rolla Posted May 6, 2010 Author Report Posted May 6, 2010 in the photos it looks like the strut is welded to the stub axle but it is not i just didn't grind back the weld run in nsw you are not aloud to weld to a cast part it is welded to the bottom of the strut tube sleeve realy close i don't know the rules for other states so don't weld the stub axle untill you find out the law in your state that go's for every mod you do to your car..... Quote
kose Posted May 21, 2010 Report Posted May 21, 2010 any photos of the firewall and tunnel before the engine went in? if they were cut to make room for the engine... Quote
rb20 rolla Posted May 21, 2010 Author Report Posted May 21, 2010 (edited) i lost all the photos of the build after my laptop crashed and i had not one thing backed up the photos that are on this site are all i had left on my phone and camera. looks like the box has to come out oil pump started making a mad noise so that means the motor has to come out and if so i can post photos for you. got my self a new turbo so if the box holds out i will get some photos of it when i get the exhaust done got my self an adaptronic ecu and an 38mm wastegate so hope we see 250kwatw should be fun to drive. PS if anyone wants to know my brake master cylinder is a r32 gtr one and it bolted straight on and a little rebend of the lines and they went straight in they feel great with the standed booster.. Edited May 22, 2010 by rb20 rolla Quote
altezzaclub Posted May 29, 2010 Report Posted May 29, 2010 What camber have you got in the front? That will affect the turn-in a lot. Â Stock lower control arms? Quote
rb20 rolla Posted May 29, 2010 Author Report Posted May 29, 2010 What camber have you got in the front? That will affect the turn-in a lot. Stock lower control arms? yeah stock lower control arms it has camber ajustment but it is still where it was when i brought them at 0 when i lowered the car yesterday you can see the camber has gone for allmost a positive look to a negative look and i would say this is why it is cornering better. i was told a front sway bar is what i need and not to run a rear one but i have people telling me two different storys so i think trying the cheap rear one first might be the go.. Quote
rb20 rolla Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Posted May 30, 2010 some pics of the car after i lowered it. corners good now but still rides good and i still want more so i will try a set of sway bars and see how that go's. next on the cards is a turbo upgrade i will take some pics when i upgrade. Quote
altezzaclub Posted May 30, 2010 Report Posted May 30, 2010 If you're down the wreckers, grab a pair of Corona front LCAs. They're about 10mm wider than the stock control arms, are a quick bolt-in, and worth half a degree of camber. Â The Sigma ones are wider again, but I don't think they are as easy to fit. Quote
rb20 rolla Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Posted May 30, 2010 If you're down the wreckers, grab a pair of Corona front LCAs. They're about 10mm wider than the stock control arms, are a quick bolt-in, and worth half a degree of camber. The Sigma ones are wider again, but I don't think they are as easy to fit. i can adjust the camber 5 degrees each way do you think i should try a bit more negative camber.  i might sound a bit dumb in this area and that is because i am this is the first car that i have ever done this sort of setup on.  every car i have owned has had a set of 90/10 in the front with standard springs so this all new to me.  i refuse to pay some one to do something i can do myself with a bit of help so thank you.. Quote
GOODY Posted May 30, 2010 Report Posted May 30, 2010 some pics of the car after i lowered it. corners good now but still rides good and i still want more so i will try a set of sway bars and see how that go's. next on the cards is a turbo upgrade i will take some pics when i upgrade. Â Is that manifold high or low mount? Do you think you will have any clearance issues hitting the strut tower etc.? Quote
rb20 rolla Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Posted May 30, 2010 (edited) it is a top mount one and will clear the strut tower easy it is just about to hit the bonnet. i am thinking of using the standard one first because i need the trottle body to face forward as the turbo sits right where the in let pipe is. catspew are you still thinking about it ?. i have just got the thing handling alot better and it is not as bad as i thought.. Edited May 30, 2010 by rb20 rolla Quote
Dropz Posted May 30, 2010 Report Posted May 30, 2010 Why not go forward facing plenum? shorter cooler piping and less clearance issues with the turbo mounting position. Quote
rb20 rolla Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Posted May 30, 2010 in this photo you can see how close it is for room under there. this is why i can not fit a strut brace. Â Quote
rb20 rolla Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Posted May 30, 2010 all reddy on it mate when i can save the money i will buy a plazmaman one $1000 so just have to weight until then.. Quote
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