Ca18de Into Ke70

[Mitch-12]

guys i got a ca18 and manual box what do i need for this conversion?? its going in a ke 70 for track use only i have loom and ecu hydro clutch intank fuel pump for injection thats bout it gonna use solid mounts and make a solid gearbox x-member what else shud be on my list??

[B.L.Z.BUB]

You'll prob need a socket set.

[Dropz]

if your going to make it for track use may i suggest:

 

rb30 manual gearbox as its alot stronger. r31 wagon diff with a mini spool for better track and strength also.

 

you've basically covered whats needed, its just the crossmembers that are the real issue. it may be an idea to get a bluebird radiator to keep it cool with a nice sized thermo fan. and it would be a good idea to give the engine a service before dropping it in. make sure all belts and hoses are in good nic, check your sparkies. depending on the history of the motor and its kms maybe give it a compression test and check the timings ok and timing belt isnt on its way out.

 

the tailshaft will need to be shortened, suggest you rebalance it too.

 

also it may be a good idea for a turbo just for that extra kick up the arse.

 

myself, i would run a 1 or 2 litre surge tank for reliability, don't want to starve the engine when you kick it out at 100km + for this setup i would use the stock carby pump as the primary pickup pump and then whatever.

 

other stuff:

 

bigger brakes, stiffer suspension, strut braces, bigger swaybars. control arms off an old sigma for about 2-3degrees neg camber with ra60 rack ends (if your not converting to the ae86 power steering rack)

 

rear shocks i'd use some off a vn-vr commy wagon, short stroke, with stiff springs, front i would get ae86 struts and brakes.

 

 

oh and a handy hint for anyone using an r31 diff. vn rear brakes (drum and disc) bolt straight up to an r31 diff if you get blank rotors and get them redrilled to 4 stud. that way you can have disc footbrake and the good old drum handbrake :P

 

 

 

i realise almost none of this is related to the ca conversion, but just some ideas for one and all.

[ke70dave]

ca18 gbox will be fine, it works fine in a silvia. we put a ca18 turbo into a sprinter and the only thing that didtn break was the gearbox.

 

get a proper fuel system as suggested, and make sure its all under the car not in the boot! intank lift pump, and high pressure feed pump.

 

r31 diff is a good choice, as you can get a kaaz lsd for them, though if its a pure track car (not regoed) then just get a locker i guess.

 

if your handy with a welder go and buy some bends and straights from an exhaust shop and make up some inter cooler piping.

 

btw you havent specifically said you have a ca18 det, but id sure hope so. a non turbo ca18 would be a bit boring.

 

if you are not going turbo, you will never need an upgraded diff or gearbox.

 

hydro clutch is from an ae71.

 

apparently if you get rb20 engine mounts a CA18 will bolt up to a k series engine crossmember, might be something to look into.

 

as for tailshaft, when you have your diff and engine mounted just measure how long you need the shaft done and then get a 1 peice shaft made with new uni's at either end. i think my mate paid 300 for his.

[Mitch-12]

ok slight change of plan will now be a ca20 less power but its only for khanacross shit i have a vs auscar as a pure track car noway will i get a 1 piece tailshaft they are way weaker so 2 piece for me um gonna keep stock diff its got a welded centre it should turn the tyres before the diff breaks um already tig welded some new bottom arms with a heap of caster and more camber gonna use the pintara fuel pump i think it has an inbuilt surge tank so yeah thats bout it

[Mitch-12]

oh and i also already have vk commodore radiator and a 12'' thermo

[Dropz]

you realise drifters, drag racer, everyone uses a 1 piece for its strength?

 

the 2 piece has more components that can fail (centre bearing)

 

if your putting the money/effort into the ca conversion imho the 20 just isnt worth it. it has no power anywhere, all it has is reliability if its stock and unmolested. the ca18 is reliable even when modified, and it gives a butt-tone more power.

 

if your going to just keep it cheap a 4age conversion never goes astray.

 

and lastly.. how does a pintara fuel pump have an inbuilt surge tank? ive never heard of it? is it off an r31 pinny? cos the 31 pintara i had just had a bog standard intake fuel pump. do you actually understand what a surge tank is, what its used for, and how it operates?

 

don't mean to be rude or anything I'm just gobbsmacked.

 

EDIT: actually a 4age conversion would be very similar pricing to a ca20 conversion. i priced one up and the ca20 was near 1300 with all the fab work done at below trade by my mate. from what ive heard 4age conversions can be done for not much more due to it being such a close fit already. a ca18 basic N/A setup could be done for around 2.5k depending on what work you can do yourself and what you can't.

Edited April 1, 2010 by Dropz

[Mitch-12]

mate look at v8 supercars 3 piece tailshaft now that says something ca20 will be alright as I'm a mechanic and i have a pinny and got all the gear if the fuelpump is anything like an lsi pump the have a resovouir like a surge tank kinda thing so i know how a surge tank works ive worked for race teams including 12 hr teams and supercar teams and stuff needs to last and they use 2 or even 3 piece tailshaft down conrod 1 piece tailshafts turn into a big banana and under load twist 2 - 3 piece do not and they are much stronger

[Dropz]

I got served :D

[Mitch-12]

I got served :D

 

sorry man i didnt mean it like that but on forums we should forget about our pride and just learn from peopleive learnt from you and youve learnt from me

[Dropz]

i was basically just going by what ive read on it. i actually have nfi about tailshafts, just ive read and heard from mates that 1pieces are meant to be stronger. but since reading what you wrote i suppose it makes more sense that 2 or even 3 piece is stronger. they wouldnt suffer as much from twisting as they are shorter lengths, which would give less reduction in output power also.

[Mitch-12]

thats it now you know another thing