4k-c Head Problems

[RainWarriorDregs]

Hey guys, Alec here, been around here a little bit and now i need some help please!

 

I have 3 Ke70s here and a spare engine, one a daily and two parts cars (all 4K-Cs). I want to send one of the heads off to get it machined and new seals and stuff.

 

SO, when i bought one of the cars i got a spare engine with it, i pulled the head off it and the coolant inlet thing (don't know what its called) looked like this

 

 

so i thought, oh god, its rooted. So i disregarded it and it sat it in the corner.

 

then i went out to my first spare parts car and pulled the head off (i drove this car back from Cairns, so i thought it'd be all good)

 

and the inlet thingy looked like this, there's absolutely none of that ledge thingy in there, is this bad? is it more corroded than the last one?

 

 

Now i'm in a bit of a rush to get this off to get machined as i don't wana dick around the fella thats doing it for me and i don't wanna send him a useless head.

 

Can someone tell me whether either of these are usabe? or should i take the head off my second parts car? (which i drove home aswell) and check that?

 

 

I don't know what to do!!!

 

please help :jamie:

[beerhead]

That just looks like sand casting dags that haven't been cleaned up in the factory.

[KENut]

^ Yep.

They both look ok corrosion wise

[RainWarriorDregs]

oh ok, sweet, thanks guys.

 

should i use the bottom one because there are less of the "dags"?

[bucky]

yea id say so. but you would have to take into account the condishion of the valve seats and stuff liek that 2

[KENut]

Yeah I'd go for the one with less dags, but really you should inspect both heads completely before chosing.

If its not too difficult, you could take both to the guy and get him to pick one (maybe clean them up a bit first, ie partswahser/degreaser).

[RainWarriorDregs]

the second one (the one with the less dags) looks in better condition. Everything in it isn't covered in an inch of crap unlike the other one, looks like the other motor had a blown headgasket because everything in there is covered in what looks like milkshake.

 

lets call the one with the more "dags" Head1 and the one with less Head2

 

the car that Head2 came off actually ran quite well, so i might just send that one off to him. Its going to a mates brother so he's just going to do what he can for a case of beer. I'm going to request new everything that can be replaced on it tho. which i'll probably have to pay for, but thats all good.

Edited March 14, 2010 by RainWarriorDregs

[Taz_Rx]

Yeah I'd go for the one with less dags, but really you should inspect both heads completely before chosing.

If its not too difficult, you could take both to the guy and get him to pick one (maybe clean them up a bit first, ie partswahser/degreaser).

 

Agreed. Take him both, then he can pick the best one.... or use parts off both to make one gopod one.

Oh and a little bit of corosion inside the thermostat housing is the least of your worries. I would have been putting up pics of the bottom face. >|

[RainWarriorDregs]

Ok this afternooon after uni i'll grab some degreaser and clean then up and put some more pics up of the bottom face and stuff. i dunno if i'm going to be able to send them both off for him to look at. but we'll see what happens. Is there anything in particular i should be looking for in terms of "brokeness" (i know thats not a word but i've been at uni for hours and my brain is mush) >|

 

 

on a side note. i attach the head to the block before i attach the extractors to the head right?

Edited March 15, 2010 by RainWarriorDregs

[Taz_Rx]

Ok this afternooon after uni i'll grab some degreaser and clean then up and put some more pics up of the bottom face and stuff. i dunno if i'm going to be able to send them both off for him to look at. but we'll see what happens. Is there anything in particular i should be looking for in terms of "brokeness" (i know thats not a word but i've been at uni for hours and my brain is mush) >|

 

 

on a side note. i attach the head to the block before i attach the extractors to the head right?

 

You want to check all of the water gallaries for corosion on the bottom face that contact the head. Also check how well the valves are seating.

 

 

You can attached the extractors and inlet manifold befor refitting to the head, however you would want to make sure the torque setting are correct (particularly on the drivers aide) as the weight of the manifolds hanging off the other side could effect the torque settings.

[altezzaclub]

One of the rear water channels in the head by the head gasket was 50% occluded by poor casting in mine, and the car didn't seem to notice.

 

I had both manifolds on mine when I put the head on, it was so much easier to line them up and do the bolts up on the bench.

 

I'd vote for giving him both heads, as he will know what is really important to look for.

[RainWarriorDregs]

Ok sounds like i'll be giving him both the heads. Should i leave all the crap in it, like the rockers and shit? i have no clue.

 

Maybe i should tear the head off my third 4k as well haha. combine three into one. we have the technology, we can fix it. >|

[RainWarriorDregs]

Ok well while you guys are here thought i'd try to figure out another couple of queries about my car.

 

1) I need to put oil in the diff, but i want to dump the oil thats in there. I've looked over my spare diff and there seems to be no drainage hole on the bottom of the diff centre. Do i just open up the plate on the back and let it drain out that way? And if i do that do i need to put a new gasket or something onto the plate? Or gasket goo?

 

 

2) I have a problem with my battery going flat, if i let my car sit there for about 6-7 hours it will not start at all, no interior light, no dash lights no solenoid click for the starter nothing. Here are my assumptions and the theories i have used to come to them.

 

Assumptions

- The battery is ok. It's about 9 months old and was running in a TX5 Telstar Ghia from new. I thought the battery might be not holding its charge. However i charged the battery until it would start the car. Then i left if overnight (about the same time i left the car for when the battery went completely flat) and the battery started the car the next morning no problems. Therefore the battery is ok

 

- Not caused from my big stereo. The problem started when me and my mate installed a new head deck and amp + sub (the speakers were from a previous stereo set up that was causing no problems, this could be a complete coincidence tho, i'm not sure. i disconnected the stereo, amp and sub and drove the car around like normal. Still the battery drained itself whilst sitting in the car for an extended period of time. Therefore it's not the stereo.

 

- Something is draining the car while the battery is connected inside it. From the above assumptions, i reckon something must be draining the battery while its in the car. I have no idea what it is as the only thing that we've screwed with to make it do this is the stereo install, but its all now disconnected so i don't know. I fixed a few wires in the loom that connected to the battery but i thought that would solve the problem no cause one.

 

Ideas

- The alternator is rooted. The charge light isn't coming on in the instrument cluster at all. Should it be coming on when i switch to Accessory power? I have a multimeter so i am going to test the voltage between the positive and negative battery terminals with the car off and on idle (this is how i test it right? and it should be around 12V with car off and 14.5V with car on idle, according to google?). should i also test the charge voltage from the alternator itself? or will this give me the same number as testing the terminals?

 

- Not enough earths. Not enough earths off the engine, someone mentioned this is a car sound thread on here. But this becomes irrelevant without the stereo being in right?

 

Other than that i am completely stumped. It's becoming extremely irritating and inconvenient tho. I just figured out a problem with the fuel pump and i got her working and now the battery keeps draining itself. Dammit.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks fellas

 

 

*EDIT: I realise that the second part of this is an electrical problem, but i thought i'd keep it in the same thread for ease of reading. >|

 

*EDIT 2: I checked the battery with a multimeter and i get 13.08V on idle and 12.50V when the cars off. But when the car was off i was dropping 0.01V every couple of seconds! Something is definitely draining that battery.

Edited March 15, 2010 by RainWarriorDregs

[RainWarriorDregs]

come on fellas, no one can help me with my power problem?

[Evan G]

grab a multimeter with a amp reading,

 

remove the postive lead off the battery

connect one of the mulitimeter leads on the battery cable and the other on the battery post.

if you get a reading more than .05 of a amp, that means you got current draw.

 

not really sure how to source the current draw, try removing fuses one by one and see if you get less current draw