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Posted (edited)

Good news on all fronts!

 

Which diff had the LSD centre in it? The KE30 or whatever was already in it?

The KE25 diff lol, I can't believe it hahaha

 

I'm assuming it is a Starlet LSD centre ?

have no idea at the moment, may be a starlet one dunno man

 

cars still at the workshop so we will see what happens when they put the KE30 axles in

 

according to this post by tojo2 in wagn's for sale thread, a KE25 has a U-series diff:

 

No, X-series.

 

Brief info on smal JAP diffheads:

 

X series: Used in KP60, KP62 and aperently some old KP61 starlets 5.6" diameter of crownwheel,

thinner axels/ splines than U and B series

 

B series: Used in KE1# and old Ke 2#. 5.7" crownwheel diameter. (Have seen 5.8" mentioned so maybe somewhere inbetween). U-series axel fit.

 

U-series: Used in newer KE2# , KE3#,KE5#, KE7# . 6"Crownwheel diameter. B-series axels fit.

 

Some aussie built cars have borg diffs. I don't know wich. This info is of no use to them

 

question is were LSDs available for U-series diffs?

 

will get more info when I go down next to see car...

Edited by Tally
Posted

I reckon with all the power you will be putting out, you will need to convert to something bigger........and sell this centre to me!

 

I'll swap you a KE25 crossmember :laff: :laff: :laff:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Ok so time for an update.

 

Picked the car up from my mates shop.

 

He did the axle swap, apparently had to take off 10mm each axle...

Also welded up exhaust, adjusted timing and fixed a few other things engine wise...

 

So drove it home, first drive of the car and I've had it few years now -_- lol

 

Drives good, engine seems healthy, brakes are horrid though think I got a lot of air in the system...

 

Also LSD = confirmed on way home :P

 

Needs a wheel alignment badly, and low low low lol

 

Chucked the rear Advans on and they fill out the guards heaps good... Real happy...

 

Still a bit to do but at least now I can take it easy for a while :)

 

5064995218_4813766d05.jpg5064383423_b5e711e196.jpg

Edited by Tally
Posted

Thanks guys...

 

ran into couple problems yesterday...

 

on the rear of the head on the engine there is a plate held by 4 bolts, its just to block up a hole that is is used for 4k engines in other vehicles other then corollas...

 

anyways it was leaking so had to change the gasket, anyway snapped one of the bolts and there was no way to get it out there is like 5cm between head and firewall..

 

so off came the head, figured id get it reconditioned while it was off, turns out the head was in very good condition and the engine looks pretty good so I'm happy...

 

dropped the head off at Just Heads on port rd, they going to weld up the rear of the head so wont need a plate and wont have any leaks anymore, and also full head recon...

 

so yea...

 

5082212073_83bd2632c8.jpg

 

also had a couple of issues with the stock tie rod tubes, ended up using KE30 inner tie rods with the ke30 tie rod tubes, problem is they are very close to the pitman and idler arm...

Was missing one reverse thread bolt thats why couldn't use stock tie rods, and no one can seem to get a reverse thread bolt in 14X1.5 pitch -__-

Posted

What reverse thread bolt were you missing? Or one of the lock nuts on the tube itself?

 

I had the same problem with the plate on the head, snapped a bolt but left it. Seal Up fixed it :P

Posted

KE20 and KE25 use a single tube with two separate bolts one left hand thread and the other right hand thread.

 

Not like KE30 style with the clamps on the tie rod tube which i swapped over to using...

 

Yea I thought id try and seal up the plate save me taking the head off but it was pretty bad leak...

Posted

Go see Dave. He gets billet ones made. Same style as the KE2x with the extra length of the KE30 tube.

 

I got Luc a pair for his KE30, works brilliant. Has the flats milled in for easy adjustment with a spanner.

 

Gotta go see him soon to get a set for the 38.

Posted

Thanks guys for the help.

 

Ended up getting a YZZE1 Corolla Oil Filter. Genuine Toyota. Real small one and not as thick in diameter. $15 bucks can't complain.

 

Ok so today went and bought new water pump. Repco didn't have a KE20/25 one, so had to get a KE30/55 one with the heater outlets on both sides.

 

Also went to Just Wrecking Toyota and got a KE30 lower thermostat housing, $20 bucks, had to take out the heater hose outlet, long story short, cracked it so lost $20 bucks. Spewin lol.

 

Really would of preferred a KE20/25 pump and lower thermostat housing....

 

Well I now need another lower thermostat housing. Repco don't do new ones, might try a few other places and see what comes up.

 

Also snapped one of the four bolts that holds that plate at the back of the head. Any idea how to go about getting it out. bloody hell lol

 

Also snapped the bolt that adjusts the alternator angle.... so wasnt my day today...

Valient ones fit perfect mate

Posted

Ok guys

 

so got head back from just heads they did an awesome job really happy with what they did for me...

 

no pics just imagine a overrated cylinder head lol...

 

ok so installed it tonight.

 

cleaned up block surface best i could with some petrol and also cleaned top of pistons came up shiny like new :)

 

Then proceeded to put new gasket on and fit cylinder head.

 

cleaned up head bolts with a wire wheel, coated the threads lightly with oil and inserted them in order.

 

Torque them in sequence, first to 25, then to 50 then to 65.

 

Thing is only a couple would click when I got to 65, some of the were either too hard for me to do or felt as if they were spinning just so very slightly... hmmmmm

 

Chucked pushrods in and rocker gear, ended up threading a bolt and screwing up the thread in the head for the bolt, is for the rocker pedastal, second bolt on the right...

 

Will need to get a new bolt see if it will fix it, if not will have to fix thread in the head...

 

the joys of working on cars -__-

 

5099469784_bfb7786ee5.jpg

Posted

Ok I've just about had it with this car ahhhhh!!!!

 

The engine won't start!

 

Ive got fuel, and ive got spark on all four leads and plugs.

 

Number one is firing good but the rest are not, when i take the plugs out the first is dry and the rest are wet.

 

Not sure f it's flooded there is fuel in the bottom of intake but no fuel puddles in the cylinders...

 

I've had it think I should do an engine conversion instead -__-

 

Took carby apart last night cleaned it all up seems fine, bolted it back on and everything...

 

Just don't know why it won't start and why the last three cylinders won't fire...

 

I've swapped leads around they seem correct, firing order is 1342 right so I dunno..

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