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Posted
Why's that?

 

My dad's painted many cars over the years and this is how he told me to do it, also my uncle is a panel beater and ive watched him wet rub like this many times...

 

I'm using 600 wet as that is good for painting acrylic.

 

That's just what ive learnt so far as this whole build up is a learning experience for me smile.gif

 

Yep, youre right, everyone used to do it, some people still do.

 

The problem is, the undercoat is not waterproof, and absorbs the water, as does the bog and anything else underneath.

 

There are now some 2 pack products on the market that are marine grade, and are pretty much waterproof, but even for these its not worth the risk.

 

The only thing that wet and dry paper should be used for is buffing these days.

 

I'm not saying that this will cause problems with your car, as circumstance will also be a factor, just trying to help out.

 

cheers~matt

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Posted

we wet rub everything at work pretty much, hell we even used waterbased base coat, clearly its been working up untill now. i don't see why heat or whatever wont evaporate anywater left in the primer ect.

Posted

I did see you comment about this last week owanf and was waiting for a reply about it.

How would you then sand primer to remove the orange peel before painting?

Posted

Just use dry sandpaper, it is usually a white color instead of the black.

 

In dry sandpaper, 320 grit is the equal to a 600 grit in wet and dry.

 

So you would use a 320 on the undercoat before painting your final color.

 

The dry sandpaper does not clean as well as using a wet and dry with water, so you will use more sandpaper,

 

but if you flick it out to clean the paper in between, it isnt too bad.

Posted

rough outline of what we do at work. prime, block with 180grit dry paper, dizzy with 400, if solid colour (white,red ect) super fine sanding pad edges hard to get places, if metallic wet rub with 800 and 1500 for blends. this is for 2 pac but never had an issue yet, just need to be sure to get all the scratches out. also for guide coat we use a purple dye guide coat as it is more even and easier to block with, sometimes use a black gun generally on bars and such when we just dizzy them.

 

also i fail to see where 320 dry would be the same as 600 wet.. 320 is far courser than 600 and wet rubbing is less harsh than dry rubbing.

Posted
Sorry for hijack Tally,

 

feel free to pm me tas, or anyone with q's.

 

cheers~matt

 

Don't think he should be too upset as its sort of relavent to where he's at with the project.

If you are Tally, just let me know and I can remove posts.

 

I was just a bit interested as I used to do a bit of work rubbing back body kits before and after priming and we would always do the primer wet. Next step was always to prepsol everything well though.

Posted

Ok so got back from Melbourne and got stuck back into blocking the car.

 

Finished off engine bay, r/h door frame and 1/4 window, rear beaver panel and front and rear windscreen frames.

 

So this is how its sitting at the moment. Going to take my time going over it very carefully to find any imperfections.

 

Should be sweet. Colour I'm going is white, with red interior later on.

 

post-1732-1270561475_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

Update tonight while was at work, dad got the rear quarters, guards, bonnet and passenger door in third coat of hi-fill primer. Will get pics 2moro.

 

Really getting close to painting it soon, just need to primer drivers door, doesn't need fixing as its straight az.

 

My aim is to get it looking something like this :(

 

4412750373_cba418d0d5.jpg4413520436_c2b89472d3.jpg

Edited by Tally

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