oh what a nissan feeling! Posted March 27, 2010 Report Posted March 27, 2010 Why's that? My dad's painted many cars over the years and this is how he told me to do it, also my uncle is a panel beater and ive watched him wet rub like this many times... I'm using 600 wet as that is good for painting acrylic. That's just what ive learnt so far as this whole build up is a learning experience for me smile.gif Yep, youre right, everyone used to do it, some people still do. The problem is, the undercoat is not waterproof, and absorbs the water, as does the bog and anything else underneath. There are now some 2 pack products on the market that are marine grade, and are pretty much waterproof, but even for these its not worth the risk. The only thing that wet and dry paper should be used for is buffing these days. I'm not saying that this will cause problems with your car, as circumstance will also be a factor, just trying to help out. cheers~matt Quote
Tally Posted March 27, 2010 Author Report Posted March 27, 2010 Cheers for that matt! Appreciate it! Funny enough my dad mentioned the waterproof bit to me but he said it'll be ok. Quote
SLO-030 Posted March 27, 2010 Report Posted March 27, 2010 Even if the undercoat and filler do absorb some filler, as long as it has time to dry it should be ok? Quote
Tally Posted March 27, 2010 Author Report Posted March 27, 2010 Yea well that's right and it gets pretty hot in my shed sometimes :) Quote
Murd 55 Posted March 27, 2010 Report Posted March 27, 2010 we wet rub everything at work pretty much, hell we even used waterbased base coat, clearly its been working up untill now. i don't see why heat or whatever wont evaporate anywater left in the primer ect. Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted March 28, 2010 Report Posted March 28, 2010 Yea well that's right and it gets pretty hot in my shed sometimes tongue.gif Yep, youre right, it will very likely be fine, acrylic top coat breaths a bit as well, as long as it gets a bit of time before the paint goes on i think it will be fine. keep the updates coming! Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 29, 2010 Report Posted March 29, 2010 I did see you comment about this last week owanf and was waiting for a reply about it. How would you then sand primer to remove the orange peel before painting? Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted March 29, 2010 Report Posted March 29, 2010 Just use dry sandpaper, it is usually a white color instead of the black. In dry sandpaper, 320 grit is the equal to a 600 grit in wet and dry. So you would use a 320 on the undercoat before painting your final color. The dry sandpaper does not clean as well as using a wet and dry with water, so you will use more sandpaper, but if you flick it out to clean the paper in between, it isnt too bad. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 29, 2010 Report Posted March 29, 2010 Does it still work ok with guidecoat using dry paper? Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted March 30, 2010 Report Posted March 30, 2010 yeh, exactly the same, the dry paper will clog easier though, so using $3 paint cans is a very bad idea for guide coat as the crappy quality paint clogs the paper almost immediately. Sorry for hijack Tally, feel free to pm me tas, or anyone with q's. cheers~matt Quote
Murd 55 Posted March 30, 2010 Report Posted March 30, 2010 rough outline of what we do at work. prime, block with 180grit dry paper, dizzy with 400, if solid colour (white,red ect) super fine sanding pad edges hard to get places, if metallic wet rub with 800 and 1500 for blends. this is for 2 pac but never had an issue yet, just need to be sure to get all the scratches out. also for guide coat we use a purple dye guide coat as it is more even and easier to block with, sometimes use a black gun generally on bars and such when we just dizzy them. also i fail to see where 320 dry would be the same as 600 wet.. 320 is far courser than 600 and wet rubbing is less harsh than dry rubbing. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted March 30, 2010 Report Posted March 30, 2010 Sorry for hijack Tally, feel free to pm me tas, or anyone with q's. cheers~matt Don't think he should be too upset as its sort of relavent to where he's at with the project. If you are Tally, just let me know and I can remove posts. I was just a bit interested as I used to do a bit of work rubbing back body kits before and after priming and we would always do the primer wet. Next step was always to prepsol everything well though. Quote
Tally Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Posted April 6, 2010 Ok so got back from Melbourne and got stuck back into blocking the car. Finished off engine bay, r/h door frame and 1/4 window, rear beaver panel and front and rear windscreen frames. So this is how its sitting at the moment. Going to take my time going over it very carefully to find any imperfections. Should be sweet. Colour I'm going is white, with red interior later on. Quote
Tally Posted April 10, 2010 Author Report Posted April 10, 2010 (edited) Update tonight while was at work, dad got the rear quarters, guards, bonnet and passenger door in third coat of hi-fill primer. Will get pics 2moro. Really getting close to painting it soon, just need to primer drivers door, doesn't need fixing as its straight az. My aim is to get it looking something like this :( Edited April 10, 2010 by Tally Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.