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Posted

I was thinking about that, and I'm sure I'd read somewhere the boot had to be sealed from the cabin... I remember talking with an engineer about certifying it as a two seater and the boot did have to be sealed.

 

I'm still leaning towards weld in and home made. I've got plenty of cams information about what I need now thankyou :)

 

The thing that I'm worrying about is engineering and rego. The car needs to be engineered as a two seater, and it needs to pass a blue slip, do I need to do all this and then put the cage in? The last conversation I had with an engineer, he didn't want to have anything to do with more than a 4 point cage, and this needs to be a 6 point cage for rallies....

 

bit of a pain in the neck if I have to register it and then put the cage in! Maybe I need to do the course for a blue slip ticket so I can bend the rules slightly? ("that cage wasn't installed when I wrote the blue slip!!"

 

Robert.

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Posted

I think this is where things start getting into a grey area with cages. I think you can have a six point, but it has to be a certain distance away from the occupants. You can't have side impact protection, which if you're rallying, you want. I think you're going to have a lot of trouble with normal car registration. Contact a local car club, they should have a rally registration scheme. I don't think you're going to be able to keep normal rego. With normal rego you won't be allowed a hydro hand brake, as well as a bunch of other mods. You could rego it and do all the mods afterwards, but you'll probably get done for it, and alienate the majority of the rally community in the process, which may make it hard to race :)

Posted

Rob , talk to one of the car clubs in NSW who run a lot of rally's.

They'll be able to give answers to all your questions, relating to rego, blue plates, etc.

Posted

we are aiming for historic rego.... only going to drive to/from club events and rallies... much cheaper than rally rego, just unsure as to how exactly the order and procedure for blueslip/pinkslip/engineer/rego is carried out.

 

Robert.

Posted

this is still a way off yet...... plenty of time to practice in the ke55 still. and there are plenty of club events to drive historic rego car to and from as well.

 

I will have to talk to some people in car club and engineers tomorrow I think.

Posted (edited)

Yeah Rob, the clubs are the best for the information, they have been though it all before.

If i remember rightly, when we done the Foster rally a couple of years ago, there was 2 ke30's running, both had nice roll cages, so i guess it won't be to much of a problem.

 

You could try getting on to some of the club forums and asking the questions on there.

Most rally people are all to happy to help as our sport isn't exactly thriving at the moment.(thanks to cams)

Edited by TRD ke70
Posted
I was thinking about that, and I'm sure I'd read somewhere the boot had to be sealed from the cabin... I remember talking with an engineer about certifying it as a two seater and the boot did have to be sealed.

 

 

Correct, it does. Door panels have to remain per CAMS PRC as well. They don't have to see what's under them though.

 

The cage in the 35 is super strong, as when I hit things these days, it tends to be at pace. The cage in the 25 is a good club spec cage, and what you should look at to get started.

 

Chris is right, your club should be able to point you in the right direction.

Posted

I have been involved with rallying for a very long time.

The cage can be the difference between life and Death. You may not intend to go all that hard or hit anything but when that count hits go all the plans end there.

Our cars have had accidents where the cage is what saved navigator and Driver.

Go to your local rally car club and see who is building their cages locally.

Unless your welding is perfect don't do it, plus if is not it will not pass cams inspection.

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