Need Help With My 4kc

[camcam]

hey fokes

i have been noticeing that my 4k has been running realy weried.when i sit on about 80kms it misses. and also when i gear down it sort of sound like a wrx, i checked all the leads one by one and its running on all four i hope that someone on here can help me with this as this car is my on way of getting around

 

i sat down and thought what could be wrong and i came up with

.plugs?

.leads?

.coil?

.points?

.dizzy/cap?

.timeing?

can somebody please help me A.S.A.P it would mean alot to me

 

 

cheers

 

cam

[altezzaclub]

So, it runs smoothly on all 4 when it idles or its under no load, such as when you pull a plug lead off.

 

It misfires when its under load such as changng down to 3rd or holding 80kph. That could be a plug breaking down under load or any of the electrical components. How well does it pull up through the gears doing a full throttle 20-100kph? Smoothly all the way? That would eliminate all the electrical stuff under load.

 

Best way to find it is on a dyno, where you can check the electrics on an 'scope while its under load. The cheap option is to get it misfiring, immediately grab neutral and switch it off, then look at the plugs for colour, although this is harder to see.

 

If its not a clear misfire on a cylinder then you might have fuel issues. Hard to guess, but maybe it leans out when working hard. That should show on a 20-100 acceleration test too.

[camcam]

So, it runs smoothly on all 4 when it idles or its under no load, such as when you pull a plug lead off.

 

It misfires when its under load such as changng down to 3rd or holding 80kph. That could be a plug breaking down under load or any of the electrical components. How well does it pull up through the gears doing a full throttle 20-100kph? Smoothly all the way? That would eliminate all the electrical stuff under load.

 

Best way to find it is on a dyno, where you can check the electrics on an 'scope while its under load. The cheap option is to get it misfiring, immediately grab neutral and switch it off, then look at the plugs for colour, although this is harder to see.

 

If its not a clear misfire on a cylinder then you might have fuel issues. Hard to guess, but maybe it leans out when working hard. That should show on a 20-100 acceleration test too.

yeah runs fine when i speed up.

 

thanks bud that might help me out a littlebit ill tinker with the tocker today and see

[**chumps**]

check the oil for water my 4k sounded like a wrx when the head went

 

:wink:

[camcam]

check the oil for water my 4k sounded like a wrx when the head went

 

:wink:

 

i changed the rotor butten and it sounds bit better now ild be pissed if it was head can't realy afford a new one righht now lol

[camcam]

i runing coolent you would be abel to see green if there was water in it wouldnt you ?? because all i see is black lol need a oil change

[camcam]

just relized that its only at night times so i tryed turning lights onand off and it happens with only lights on so does that mean alternater ???

[RedKE30]

i runing coolent you would be abel to see green if there was water in it wouldnt you ?? because all i see is black lol need a oil change

 

Your oil is always going to be black.

 

Look for a milky substance in your oil, especially under the oil cap.

[B.L.Z.BUB]

dude that doesnt sound good. Do you still have power when you take off?

[altezzaclub]

Buy a $10 multimeter if you don't already own one, and check the voltage on the battery when idling & revving, both with and without the lights on. A healthy alty will keep the voltage around 13volts without lights and 12v with them on.

 

I'd be surprised if it is a straight alty fault, (usually brushes worn or a diode burnt out) as the battery should supply enough to run the engine and the lights without the alternator connected at all for quite a few hours. I'm wondering if there is a short somewhere in the lighting circuit that is pulling a fat current out of the system and dropping the voltage, although you should smell something hot or burning if that is the case.

 

See what you can find...

[camcam]

Buy a $10 multimeter if you don't already own one, and check the voltage on the battery when idling & revving, both with and without the lights on. A healthy alty will keep the voltage around 13volts without lights and 12v with them on.

 

I'd be surprised if it is a straight alty fault, (usually brushes worn or a diode burnt out) as the battery should supply enough to run the engine and the lights without the alternator connected at all for quite a few hours. I'm wondering if there is a short somewhere in the lighting circuit that is pulling a fat current out of the system and dropping the voltage, although you should smell something hot or burning if that is the case.

 

See what you can find...

 

the only thing i can smell is like fuel and ijust figgered thats from running ruff

 

Your oil is always going to be black.

 

Look for a milky substance in your oil, especially under the oil cap.

 

nah head gasket is fine first thing i checked

[camcam]

ok it is still doing it with lights off i just drive more at night ...also I'm noticing it more on idel now ...I'm sorry for screwing you guys around but i serriously thought it was only when lights are on .......its just worse when they are on I'm out of ideas the only thing left i have is try to clean carby out or it is the wireing ???

:D

Edited January 19, 2010 by camcam

[camcam]

here i posted a vid on youtube thought it might be betterif you herd itfor your selfs then me explain it lolhope it helps :D

 

[Taz_Rx]

I had a similar problem way back in my pizza boy days.

The alternator was running or like 1/4 diodes.

 

Car would still start fine, although it did turn over a little slow. Drive fine during the day (with headlights off), but if I tried to put my headlights on it would completely die in the arse. Had to drive at night for like a week before I got it fixed using only the park lights!! :D

 

Got alt rebuild and all good again.

 

Can you maybe borrow an alt of somebody to check if this is the problem?

 

 

While I think of it another very annoying problem I had once while driving for dominos was a really bad missfire when ever it was under heavy load (like going up a hill). Dad and I spend a couple of hours one evening tring to work out what it was with no luck. We then put the car in the garage after basically giving up and it was just dark enough to see the spark that was jumping from the faulty coil>dizzy lead back onto the coil terminal. Turned out to be a $5 fix with a new lead. If I were you I'd just fit a whole new set of bosch super sport plug leads (should be able to get the propper capped plug leads for K's) from supercheap for like $20. :D

[Old fella]

G`day mate, I agree with Taz_rx in that you should check for spark leakage between leads, coil, dizzy. Wait until it is dark (really dark) lift the bonnet and start it up. You may have to look hard but it sure sounds like spark leakage to me. I also notice that plug leads 1 and 2 are touching. Try separating them with one of the plastic tube holders from your polution pipes. It might just work. While you`re in there, check that all of the polution pipes are connected properly. Only takes 5 minutes and that will eliminate another possibillity. Also check that the air gap between the rotor button and the dizzy cap is not too big. When the metal bits inside the cap get worn the gap increases and can cause missing like that.

Good luck.