Ke20 "club Car"

[LukeAE71]

Fantastic read mate, looks like you're enjoying the fruits of your labour :P

[ranko_87]

So I now have a collection of gearboxes... I fitted another K40 (early KE20 Type) into the car to get it ready for Lakeside in Febuary. I also sent my tailshaft away to have it rebuilt and balanced. Ran the car in 6 session over the weekend at Lakeside and then drove it onto the trailer at the end of the event... not one breakage. Well, not that stopped it from running anyway. The tail shaft developed a vibration at 120kmph plus. The LHR axle seal started to leak after the second session and after having the plugs out on Firday night the sparkplug tubes leak.

 

I pulled down the K40 with no third. The box is perfect. The shifter is ratshit. Snapped the casting the shifter rod runs through which ment when trying to selct third the rod would just fall out. I am in the process of repairing it to add this box to the collection of useable boxes.

 

After a little inspection I found the axle seal to be running right on the front edge of the bearing retaining collet. New seal pushed in an extra 3mm and it should do the trick.

 

While I had the rear wheels off I sorced some rear wheel cylinders. The orgionals are 7/8th, I could get 13/16th from another variaty or KE20 or 3/4 from a KE25. I thought I would try the 3/4s. While I havn't run it on the track yet, on the street it has cured my low brake pedal on the first stab.

 

Also I am cleaning up some old hotwire style mags I have had sitting around for it. I acid washed them, and then prepsoled the centers and sent them to be painted 2 pak black in the center. I got them back the other day and am starting to polish the lips. 1 is looking pretty good so far. I'll post some pics when I get them on.

 

I'm still working on the tailshaft issue as my driveline angles aren't great with the current ride height. Does anyone else have problems with vibrations in their low KE2*

 

I aslo picked up some DCOE40 webers, I think they could be overkill for this motor, so I might not put them on until I do a rebuild and get a bit more power potential with a bigger cam and heads.

 

Pics up soon.

Edited April 23, 2010 by ranko_87

[ranko_87]

Done so far:

 

REAR END

 

Rebuild and professionally welded 4.222 jap spec diff

New rear brakes with 3/4 (starter with 7/8th) wheel cylinders

Moddified rear leaf springs with 30mm lowering block (to keep camber of spring to increase wheelbase on outside when cornering)(needs to have 20mm extra camber)

Commodore ute Koni red rear shocks

 

FRONT END

 

KE70 slotted rotors and bendix pads

new wheel bearings

Ke20 strut housings shorterened to take Tercel inserts. coil over adjuster sleeves, 225lb pro sport coils (started with 175lb), custom top camber plates

Cressida lower control arms

Ke20 steering arms, milled out to take cresida ball joint

Urathane bushes through out.

 

BODY

 

Full respray in 2 pak white (i call it fridge white, no tinters or toners, easy to repair)

13" mazda rims with Perilli P5 tyres

 

INTERIER

 

Orgional interier, with cobra imola S race seat and 5 point 3" RPM harness (started with sparco sprint and 2" 4 point RMP harness)

6 point Bond roll cage with taxi bar added.

Deep dish aftermarket steering wheel

 

ENGINE

 

3K motor bought as is, supposed to have mild cam and shaved head.

3k-b twin carbs with exposed 6 1/2" filters

Extractors

Did a full tune on it when i got it, was running really rich with a bodgy home made air filter. Float levels wrong and ignition a bit worn in every way.

Have had it at 6300 RPM in 4th down the the front straight of Lakeside without throwing anything out the side.

 

GEARBOX

 

STD 4 speed K40, onto box number 2 atm

 

PLANS FOR THE NEXT MONTH

 

185/60R13 Yokahama A048R Semi Slicks - 23/04/10

13x5.5 hotwire style mags, cleaned, painted and polished - 23/04/10

Change LHR Axle seal - 16/04/10

Change wheel cylinders from 7/8 to 3/4 - 16/04/10

Front pads from Bendix GCT to QFM A1RM

Extension housing seal - 21/04/10

KE30 shifter/Extension housing - 21/04/10

Rear main oil seal - 21/04/10 Still leaks, pulled gearbox out again, going to use speedi sleeve and new seal, - 22/04/10

Change engine backing plate to suit 3k > k40 from 3k > k50 - 21/04/10

Idler arm bushes

Adjust front wheel bearings - 23/04/10

Wheel align to suit semi slicks

Reset rear springs up 20mm

Wheel spacers for rear

 

 

Attemp to fix driveline angles/vibrations

 

- Rebuild tailshaft Had problems with origion tail shaft, wouldn't balance up because the eye in the rear had spread. Ended up with 2 shafts, 1 with a borg warner uni in the front and jap spec in the rear (don't ask) and a shaft to suit a ke20 with borg warner. I had the diff pinion modified to suit, but i'm not happy with it as there is only 5mm of tapped thread in the shaft flange. so i'm going to have an adapter made to bolt up the borg warner shaft to my jap diff.

- Tail shaft adapter

- Fit open centre diff

- Refit locked diff

- Space gearbox up

- Mill lowering blocks to adjust pinion angle

 

OVERALL PLANS

 

Rebuild gearbox and short shifter

Front Konis from MR2

Strut brace

Braided brake lines

3k with knife edged crank, lightened flysheel, arp rod bolts, head stud kit, alloy pulleys, big reving cam, lots of head work, twin dcoe40 webers, electric dizzy, etc

 

I'm sure my list will be added to after the next time to the track.

 

Here is what she is looking like now

Edited May 8, 2010 by ranko_87

[ranko_87]

So I have found some front strut insert which will fit in my front struts. MR2 rears. I am going to save a few pennys for those. I think I should be able to dial out some of my oversteer by fitting the firmer inserts in the front and adding a strut brace. The strut brace i have hits the filters on the twin down draft carbs so I'll wait to fit it untill I have the webers on.

 

I have been thinking about building a head with bigger valves, port work, match ported inlet manifold and extractors, valve springs to suit a Tighe cams grind and then fitting it, with the webers to the motor I have and just swapping the cam.

 

My question would be which cam to use. I want HP. I don't mind loosing torque as once it is up on song, it stays there. But the motor is a factory assembled 3k so I don't know how high she will go before it goes bang.

 

I really want to build a new motor, but I really want to see those webers hanging off the side of my motor and it will be months or years before I can afford to build a new motor and keep the car racing.

 

Ideas?

[coln72]

Standard bottom ends are pretty tough. My 5k would consistently pull 7500-8000rpm during motorkhanas and did so for years.

[ranko_87]

I've fitted semi slicks now... and I've been told to be careful of 2 things:

 

1. Over working the brakes with increased speeds (already ordered front pads in the QFM A1RM, double the working temp of my current pads)

and

2. Oil surge as a result of increased corner speed and non baffled sump.

 

While not a solution, I am in the process of fitting an oil pressure gauge and an autometer pro warning light (idiot light)

 

I'm just concerned about the number of senders being tee'd off the oil pressure switch. There is the gauge, a idiot light sender and in the future, a 5psi electric fuel pump safety shut off switch.

 

I have a few questions,

 

1. Autometer do a 15, 30 and 50 psi idiot light sender, from my corolla manual the specs say 42psi oil pressure at 3000rpm @ 100 deg. C or 28psi at 300rpm @ 100 deg. C

so do I use a 30psi sender, which will most likey flash on at low rpm or use a 15psi sender which will most likey not come on as early, but is 15psi pressure enough at high rpm.

 

2. If I use the 15psi light sender, could i use a relay with a switching earth to cut the fuel pump? would 15 psi be low enough that the fuel pump would run as soon as the motor has kicked? If i wire the relay to swich when ground is opened, then how can i wire in bypass for when the engine cranks?

 

I might post this in the tech section aswell.

 

Cheers

 

Andrew

[ranko_87]

I was looking for a photo of my corolla on my work computer and found this one and though i'd upload it. It is from Lakeside 20/03/10. This photo is of my first ever over take. I went into the next corners so much fast i ended up spinning off the track and loosing the position i had just made.

 

[toyocharged]

on the rear suspension we run fiat 124 sport Koni sports and reset springs in our KE20 and KE25 IPRA Corollas, the front sounds about right with 250lb and aw11 rear inserts, the brother is selling his 4age20v st driveline package, includes engine dynoed at 104kw atw on e85,engine mounts, extreme clutch lightened flywheel , comp clutch, and gearbox mounts , t50 box and bellhousing to suit a series and a tailshaft to suit the t50 to ke20 diff also has a 4.556 and trd lsd. Diff if for sale too with mazda rx7 disc and panard rod. Its all bolt in and would transform your car. He is upgrading to a 3s,w58, tseries drivetrain. PM me for details.

 

A few pics of engine and car

 

[ranko_87]

So I fitted the oil pressure gauge and warnig light. Used an adjustable oil pressure sender currently set at 40psi. It flashes on and off when hot at idle, so should be perfect when on the track.

 

 

Next race is the 16th May, so time will tell.