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Posted

Hi All,

My on going saga of completing an auto to manual conversion for my ke10 contiunes....I am after some advice/experince you guys have had with this.

 

Current problem:

I have replaced the 2 speed auto box with a 4 speed manual (out of a later model ke3x of ke5x) which has a different gearbox output shaft than the auto box I pulled out (I have been trying to source an earlier model 4 speed gear box out of a ke2x series without any luck - So if anyone has one please PM me!).

 

So I am finding that I believe I need to either:

1. Use the auto tailshaft with correct flange at diff end and later model tail shaft with the correct gearbox input shaft and split at yolks and combine (assuming that this would give the correct tailshaft length and the yolks are the same size etc...)

2. Or get someone to cut/weld the two tailshafts, balance etc.. to get the correct lenght.

 

However, I have come across a 5speed from a Ke70 with tailshaft. Which I believe would need to have the tailshaft cut down to length (which I may need to do for fitting the tailshaft for the 4 speed.

 

So what I am after is some advice:

Is the 5 speed box the same physical size as the 4 speed other than the length of the box? Basically will it fit within the transmission tunnel

Is the shifter position set further back?

Is it possible to use the existing gearbox cross member from the autobox on the 5speed box? or is the cross member different?

Is it possible to use the existing clutch, presure plate etc... from the 4 speed with the 5 speed?

 

Are there any other hidden supprises like clutch cable positions, speedo cable fittings etc... that I should be aware of?

 

Basically, I think I am likely to need to get the tailshaft cut and shut, so if there is minimal extra buggering around, I am thinking the 5 speed would be good.

 

 

Any help, words of wisdom would be great.

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Posted

I have a 5 speed out of a KE70 in mine, the only modification needed is the hole in the floor cut further back towards the driver.

 

From what I have heard, the KE3x - 5x style even in 5 speed still don't fit the original floor hole. If you are going to all the trouble of making this work I suggest you get a KE70 style, as it puts the shifter in a better position for driving too.

 

Clutch and pressure plate are the same for 4 and 5 speed.

 

As for the tailshaft and crossmember woes, I am guessing like all Rollas there is a difference between manual and auto unfortunately :)

Posted
As for the tailshaft and crossmember woes, I am guessing like all Rollas there is a difference between manual and auto unfortunately :)

 

Thanks for the help. The cross member for the auto fits the 4 speed fine. Just need to check that it will also fit the 5 speed.

 

I have already cut the hole for the shifter for the 4 speed. Just not sure if the 5 speed is set back further than the 4 speed.

 

Anthony

Posted

All boxes are the same length across the k series, auto/manual/4speed/5speed.

 

Tailshaft yokes vary between the 2 different 5 speeds (ke30/55 and Ke70). The difference is the number of splines.

 

Crossmember is the same.

 

I simply went to the wreckers and they had a box of front yokes for K series boxes, I went through and found a good one and paid a workshop about 70 bucks to swap it over and redo the bearings.

 

I don't know about location of the KE70 shifter being the best, I reckon it's to far back personally and you may find it clashes with your handbrake (someone complained of this once iirc). But that's personal preference.

 

You might as well just get a new clutch for about 140 bucks for a complete heavy duty kit and that way you don't need to think about it for a long time.

Posted

The KE70 shifter doesn't interfere with the handbrake, though it can get in the way if you have long legs like mine and use the original steering wheel. This mainly happens when in fifth.

 

It's purely a preference thing, and I LOVE my original steering wheel so i put up with it :)

Posted
Tailshaft yokes vary between the 2 different 5 speeds (ke30/55 and Ke70). The difference is the number of splines.

 

Are you sure?

 

I was running a KE30/55 4spd and swapped to a KE70 5spd with no tailshaft issues.

 

I also helped JasonKE30 swap his KE30 4spd to a KE30/55 5spd, again with no tailshaft issues.

Posted (edited)

i didn't think there were 2 different splines either, there is 2 different casings, smooth one and a ribbed one.

Smooth is early, but some 70's had them, and the ribbed is late.

You can also get a ribbed late with a different gear locate, same as a KE3x, this is from a starlet.but they had both.

 

If you can find a stuffed KE3X 5 speed, you can change the rear housings over to change the gearshift location.

Have done this myself.

Edited by TRD ke70
Posted
The KE70 shifter doesn't interfere with the handbrake, though it can get in the way if you have long legs like mine and use the original steering wheel. This mainly happens when in fifth.

 

It's purely a preference thing, and I LOVE my original steering wheel so i put up with it ;)

 

Luke you've almost certainly got an earlier 5 speed in it if that's the case, mine has the same knee issue in 5th. KE70 5 speeds are further back again.

 

Ryan and TRD ke70 you could be right. All I know is that I remember was particularly careful about counting splines and I'm pretty certain I came across different ones. We're talking about 1-2 splines different here. Could be that I was going through a box with more than K yokes in it or something, i dunno it was ages ago.

Posted

The orig ke1x boxes have different input splines (and output as well I think from memory), compared to the ke2x onwards.

 

My ke15 when I got it had a ke30 4 speed in it. I changed it to a ke70 5 speed and found the shifter location to be much much better. No problems with clearance to the handbrake... Never had any issues at motorkhanas when doing second gear handbrake turns. I did initially have issues bashing my elbow on the door with the stock steering wheel though, a smaller wood wheel fixed that.

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