Ae82 Drive Shafts

[madmax7]

i removed my motor from my ae82 and i undid the drive shafts from the wheels so i could pull the shafts out the gearbox but theres this bit on the shaft and has 3 ends on it where in seems to lock into joint but ive never seen them do this before ive only seen the whole lot come out the box does this mean i f@$ked them

[Rolla Boy]

Most likely means you've pulled it out and off the boot???

 

Should still be fine, just repack them with grease, fit some new boots and clamps...

[KPARRIS-JONES]

Yes that is normal, mine looked like this after I did that;

 

 

As said, just repack them and slide the boot back on, making sure that it is secure. :wink:

[Johno]

I almost did that too when converting to a 4age. The front LH side droped a bit too low when changing some stuff. I was told that i stuffed the CV's because they have a vacuum seal and when it fell there was a hissing sound and to put it back in had to force it in against air pressure. Is mine OK?

[drc_ke20]

lever it off and once removed repack with graphite lithium grease and hold boot with cable ties or clamp.but if the other joint that pivots (connected to hub)

has a torn or noisy you might as well replace the whole c.v. joint.

[Johno]

Ok, cheers. Its the part that connects the gearbox. They are still the stock 4ac ones. I will change to the 4age one's after it gets rego'ed. Just need to get a deeper 30mm socket to undo the hub bolts

[Trev]

Just easier to undo the 6 nuts on the stub axle and slide the shaft away and doing so keeps the oil in the gearbox.

[Johno]

Just easier to undo the 6 nuts on the stub axle and slide the shaft away and doing so keeps the oil in the gearbox.

I don't understand, if i wanted to change my drive shafts i will still need to undo the 30mm nut as well as the x6 12mm nuts on each side.

I wont be pulling out the gearbox, not yet anyway.. :)

[Trev]

I don't understand, if i wanted to change my drive shafts i will still need to undo the 30mm nut as well as the x6 12mm nuts on each side.

I wont be pulling out the gearbox, not yet anyway.. :)

 

Correct, But when doing something like removing the box its easier to undo the shaft at the gearbox end via the 6 nuts and leave the short drive shaft inside the gearbox.

[Johno]

Correct, But when doing something like removing the box its easier to undo the shaft at the gearbox end via the 6 nuts and leave the short drive shaft inside the gearbox.

Ah, cool. Now I get it:) lol

[carbonboy]

Also saves you wondering "now which one goes in which side?" when it comes time to put it back together. :laff:

 

Oh & when you DO drop your gearbox out, make sure to have jacks/mates on hand to help as getting them in/out by yourself can be a right royal bitch of a time! Without a hoist that is! :P

[parrot]

Yes, the weight in the box is offset to the angle it needs to go back in and it is damn hard to balance. From memory, all the weight is in the differential part. Make sure your clutch is centred properly cause it is bloody hard work trying to get it back in. The offset weight makes it pretty precarious if trying to get it up there with a trolley jack. I eventually gave up and did the old bench press routine.

 

I had a JDM front cut I transplanted in when I did the AE82, and I can't recall the details, but there were differences between the halfshafts between the 4AGE JDM and 4AC ADM. I can't recall what it was or how I got around it, but there was a bit of confusion there for a bit.

 

But anyway, you just need to pull the joint firmly directly outward from the inner cups to break the vacuum seal due to the grease. Repack well with the correct grade of grease and away you go.

 

Edit: Also unbolt the front hubs from the strut assembly so you can sort of swing the halfshafts out of the way.

Edited March 23, 2011 by parrot