Ke30 Rotorolla

[SLO-030]

I id run the switch on the trigger for the relay.

 

On mine I have Ign power going thru the switch and into the 85/86 pins of the relay.

 

I only have the fan on the 87/30 pins.

 

That way the only current running thru the switch is whats needed to throw the relay

[kangaroosa]

I id run the switch on the trigger for the relay.

 

On mine I have Ign power going thru the switch and into the 85/86 pins of the relay.

 

I only have the fan on the 87/30 pins.

 

That way the only current running thru the switch is whats needed to throw the relay

Tah, will redo that when i get a new switch.

[Taz_Rx]

The switch should be able to handle the current draw of the fan, but yeah give it a try wired on the trigger not the fan feed. :wink:

[ninja-philbo]

run it constant

[kangaroosa]

I got on the Tridon website to find a more suitable part number.

The recommended part is TFS-115 97C on - 92C off.....which i think is a little too high.

I thought the TFS-119 90C-85C was a better option and was 2 pin in the catalogue.

 

I went instore and both parts were single pin, so i couldnt loop the circuit back to the relay.

 

Anyone here have the same setup? I asked on Ausrotary but the thread has gone unanswered.

 

I really don't want the fan running full time. Its a safe option, but in winter i really don't want the fan running when it doesnt need to be.

[Raven]

- TFS123

 

- TFS143

 

There's two that should get you out of trouble.

 

Both are two pin as well.

[kangaroosa]

- TFS123

 

- TFS143

 

There's two that should get you out of trouble.

 

Both are two pin as well.

 

The problem i think i was having is that i was looking at the Normally Closed circuit part numbers because thats what the Std part number suggested.

In hindsight, I guess an open circuit is logical as it will become a closed circuit at the right temp. Have i mentioned that i hate auto electrics? :P

TFS-123 is the one i'm going with. Pending price, i may get two as i have the slots for them. That way i'll have a backup ready to go if I have the same drama in peak hour traffic in future.

 

One thing that worries me, is that on the wiring its got 105C which i guess is what the wiring is rated to. Kinda cutting fine i would have thought as the water temps get close to that, not to mention all the radiating heat from the exhaust and block.

Edited November 22, 2010 by kangaroosa

[Raven]

All good :)

 

I used a TFS139 on the 5K.

[SLO-030]

TFS-148 is what I'm using on the 4K now. Normally open, 95 on 90 off. Book says its a 2 pin but has the 2 leads like yours with a regular 2 pin connector.

 

Was like $28 or something thru sprints.

[chappo12]

so how much did it cost for xtreme to build the BP motor ?

 

might go bp myself

[kangaroosa]

I got a very good deal and everything was basically scrapped on my existing motor, as it was kaput. It all got replaced with 13B gear and machined to suit. I'm not supposed to advertise what price i got it for, but i'll send you a PM instead.

 

BP is fun and it goes like a rocket. However its a matter of time before I get attention from the Police. I've been lucky enough not to pass any Police and I avoid certain areas.

When I pull up to a set of lights, I get other drivers from 3 cars away looking around to see whats making all the noise. I pulled up behind a Harley one day and the rider turned around to see what was making all the noise. So i'm just waiting for the time when i pull up next to a Cop or he spots me.

 

I'm running 2 Rotaflo Resonators, 1 Rotaflo Rear Muffler and small Redback muffler that was added later just to take a bit of noise out of it. So all that and its still off its tits. I know the majority of the noise is induction noise, but a cop wont buy that if he spots me at full noise.

 

I did get that fan switch sorted too and rewired it as suggetsed. I have two switches installed now (one is a backup).

[ke70dave]

considered looping your exhaust back and forth under your car and adding a few more mufflers? could get 5 more easy.

 

or on a more serious note, how about an airbox or something?

 

sounds bloody loud if its got all those mufflers, and you reckon its still too loud.

 

i think i want one, and i think your neighbours must hate you!

[kangaroosa]

considered looping your exhaust back and forth under your car and adding a few more mufflers? could get 5 more easy.

 

or on a more serious note, how about an airbox or something?

 

sounds bloody loud if its got all those mufflers, and you reckon its still too loud.

 

i think i want one, and i think your neighbours must hate you!

 

I've run out of space for more mufflers. The only thing i could do is unbolt the existing system and get a cheap restrictive system made up to pass any testing.

Its pretty loud. My stereo used to be kick ass. Now I have it turned up to the point of distortion and i can't clearly hear the song enough enjoy it. Fortunately its only a weekend car. So I don't normally start it mid week.

 

I'm thinking about getting more sound deadener for under the carpet and double layer over the tunnel. Its like a sauna in the as well, even if its 15deg outside. The extractors come off the engine and go directly under the pedal box, then cross over under the gearbox to the passenger side. So all that heat radiates through the firewall, tunnel and drivers side floor.

[Raven]

Get one of these - Apexi Exhaust Control Valve

[kangaroosa]

I wonder how much it affects flow even when its open. My system doesnt join into a single pipe until just before the diff, so i'd have to see how long the cable is or maybe just plumb it into one pipe.....which i'm tipping isnt recommended.

Would be nice to have so i can shut the car up and play dumb if i ever get pulled over. You think its loud.....must have been induction noise you heard officer.