Ke30 Rotorolla

[jader]

Thanks for the info! Ive sent them a message on their site, find out where the best distributor is in brisbane.

 

And just when i thought this car couldnt get any better.... interior pics! Looks really nice probably the nicest ive seen in a rolla. How much did it cost to get the seats reaphoulstered? you seem to know a bit about it, do you think you could get just the cloth front redone and leave the vinyl at the back?

 

Anyway great work and thanks again for the info, if this was in the car of the year i would have voted for it for sure.

[kangaroosa]

Thanks for the info! Ive sent them a message on their site, find out where the best distributor is in brisbane.

 

And just when i thought this car couldnt get any better.... interior pics! Looks really nice probably the nicest ive seen in a rolla. How much did it cost to get the seats reaphoulstered? you seem to know a bit about it, do you think you could get just the cloth front redone and leave the vinyl at the back?

 

Anyway great work and thanks again for the info, if this was in the car of the year i would have voted for it for sure.

 

Long story short - A woman appeared at the top of driveway one day and said she has seen me getting around but never found out where I lived. Her husband and daughter spent a heap on a KE30 4 Door, only to have her roll it into a ditch and total it. They had it listed for 6 months with no buyers so they gave up and just wanted it gone.

So it cost me a slab of VB for the old man and $50 for the girl, and I trailered the car home. It had the upholstered seats and the sports steering wheel. Best of all, the seats are the proper 2 doors ones with the lever that flips them forward.

 

Being a 4 door, the door trims were no good to me. So I traced down what fabric it was and made my own. I used alot of the car for spare parts as most of the interior trims were immaculate. Brand new tyres was nice at that stage as i was still at TAFE.

The car came to rest on its roof, but fortunately one front gaurd and the boot were immaculate as the car had just been resprayed. The rest of it was caved in. She was a lucky girl.

 

You could get an upholsterer to upholster whichever seats you like. Why not save up and do them all so it looks the goods.

Edited December 11, 2009 by kangaroosa

[jader]

Wow, thats a real shame, though lucky she was alright (and you got some immaculate parts and really nice seats :hmm:)

 

You could get an upholsterer to upholster whichever seats you like. Why not save up and do them all so it looks the goods.

 

oh, i realize now that i said it in a retarded way, but what i meant was the back of the seats (and the base part for the rear seats) is blue vinyl whereas the part you come into contact with is cloth (and in serious need for some attention). Basically i would like to preserve the vinyl so it matches the door trims/ carpet.

 

I guess i will just wait and get some quotes when the time comes, seat covers will do for rego though :( Will definately be using this car for inspiration in the future

 

Thanks

[Falken_KE30]

About Time this got some Fame Darren :hmm:

 

Been following the ups and downs of this for ages, mostly downs haha :(

[Felix]

Felix - I have never seen a set of those carbs on a Rotary. I Wonder if the manifolds are even still available, or possibly they might even be a standard IDA manifold. I wonder how they compare to a properly tuned IDA.

 

 

From what I understand, compared to an IDA they have a lot more low-midrange response, drivability and economy. Topend is way up there.

 

If you are interested I'd be watching US ebay or on american rotary/rx7 forums.

 

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=862625

[Taz_Rx]

Great to see you've finally got this going! :y: Has been a long time since you were PM'ing me about gearbox's etc.... you made the right choice in bighting the bullet for the gen 2 box. You'll never have to think about it again with an NA 12a.

 

You reminded me about the day I picked up the '4 after the 13b and manual conversion re "shakey handys"...... mind you, you should have seen the face of my passenger.... who drove a 253 LX 4 door. :)

 

Just to add a bit of info on chappo's question about the oil coolers - There's no way in hell a trans cooler will have sufficient cooling surface area or hold enough pressure for a rotary, for which oil cooler are pretty important. Fork out some decent money now for good one to start with and avoid yourself future engine failure from getting it too hot. Think of it this way water cools the outside of a rotary engine and oil cools the centre of it.

 

Felix - I've never seen those carbs before either. There's a good reason why they'd have better bottom end and economy than an IDA and that's cause they primarys and secondary throats. From what I can see in the pics the outside (big) ports are the primarys, then when you crack the secondarys it'll also feed the centre plate ports. Can't see them having better top end than an IDA though, otherwise every second man and his dog would have then (or something similar like modified twin 32/36 etc).

[kangaroosa]

Felix - I've got a 48IDA in the shed that I will be using when I get my spare motor Bridge Ported. Its just a proven quantity these days and I know the old owner of Rank Rotary who is a whiz at tuning these motors. My car went in for a proper tune after engineering and emmissions testing. The car went in with 70rwkW and came out with 102.7rwkW

 

Taz - Yeah it feels like an eternity. I was pretty much settled on a S5 box and picked one up soon after i got your input on it. The car has spent most of its life in the last few years parked under a car cover. Buts its all come together within the last 10 months or so. Once i got the engine and gearbox mounted, the motivation came back and I got stuck into it.

 

I've had issues with incorrect reading gauges so i've replaced them, and took to the radiator support panel this arvo to allow better airflow to the radiator as the temps are fine at idle, but they spiked a bit when at speed. About 80mm of the radiator was covered which probably wasnt helping the cause.

I spoke to PWR today about getting a radiator. I just have to sketch up how i want the outlets on the RX7 Radiator, but unfortunately production has stopped for the year and wont be starting until Jan 5th. So if the S1 rad doesnt cope over summer, I'll be treating myself to a PWR unit with a 16" SPAL fan.

 

I picked a VL radiator on the weekend with the plan to install it in place of the RX7 rad. Got it home and pressure tested it. 1st one had a leaky end tank. So i took it back and exchanged it. This one had a leaky core....it looked brand new. The rest of the rads were either munted or had thinner cores. So I tore that money up.

Went to another wrecker and got another brand new looking radiator. It leaked as well.....not happy. So that one ended up being thrown at the fence to make sure it was really finished. :y: No i'm not seeing anyone for my anger issues. I gave up on the dirty old holden pieces of shite.

 

S1 RX7 Radiator is going back to the shop tommorrow to get the outlet welded back in and for them to take a tank off and rod out the tubes so I know that its in the best shape it can be for Summer.

I've also picked up some Redline water wetter. Alot of rally and circuit rotary drivers swear by it. Apparently it doesnt contain glycol, so the race cars use it due to it not leaving an oily residue. Its supposed to crap all over regular coolant so I'm giving it a go.

 

Slightly larger opening.

 

I just cut and relocated the mounting. Welded in place. Don't zoom too close on the welds please.

 

Stewart Warner performance electric gauges.

Edited December 14, 2009 by kangaroosa

[Beauc]

and $50 for the girl

 

Wait, What :y:

[Taz_Rx]

Forgot to add in my other reply - Funny your speco temp guage reads 10* high, mines around 8-9* too low!!! Thats compared to my digi hand controller read out which I'm more inclined to believe.

 

PWR's are good, but also soooo bloody expensive. I recently got one these ASI rads for mine...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RACE-alloy-radiator...=item45ef7afb37

 

They're still a quality product, tripple core and 4 pass. I haven't done a whole lot of driving on mine yet but haven't had any issue at all. Just some food for thought as they're about a 3rd of the price of a PWR.

 

And while on the subject of rads - I'd love to take that k seies one off your hands if you've still got it (for my 4x4 project). Only prob is I won't have any funds for it until next year. :y: see what having kids (and a missus working like 8 hours a week) does to ya! Not much money for cars left. Let me know if you've still got it then. :P

[kangaroosa]

Forgot to add in my other reply - Funny your speco temp guage reads 10* high, mines around 8-9* too low!!! Thats compared to my digi hand controller read out which I'm more inclined to believe.

 

PWR's are good, but also soooo bloody expensive. I recently got one these ASI rads for mine...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RACE-alloy-radiator...=item45ef7afb37

 

They're still a quality product, tripple core and 4 pass. I haven't done a whole lot of driving on mine yet but haven't had any issue at all. Just some food for thought as they're about a 3rd of the price of a PWR.

 

And while on the subject of rads - I'd love to take that k seies one off your hands if you've still got it (for my 4x4 project). Only prob is I won't have any funds for it until next year. :y: see what having kids (and a missus working like 8 hours a week) does to ya! Not much money for cars left. Let me know if you've still got it then. :P

 

Whilst wiring up the Stewart Warner gauges I discovered that for some strange reason i had the speco gauge wired into the plug for the back of the standard gauge cluster....which then goes into the engine bay for the stock sender. I have done away with that, and run a new wire like the rest of the gauges have already. That could be part of the reason for a dud reading.

 

I've heard good and bad about ASI on Ausrotary. Alot of people swear by them, and theres alot that have had cores crack etc. I would rather pay the extra $$ and deal with someone in Aus over the phone. I can get all the pipes welded in the right spots and rotation with spal fan mounts for the same price as a regular RX7 PWR item. It should then be a simple bolt in situation and its rated as a quality product, so either way I can't go wrong. I havent ordered one yet - I'm waiting to see how the RX7 Rad goes with the front of the car being opened up first.

 

The 3 row Corolla radiator is as good as sold. The bloke is supposed to be picking it up wednesday night.

[Taz_Rx]

No worries on the K rad, for the price you wanted it should have been sold by now! :y:

 

I did a bit of research on ausrotang about the asi before I bought mine. There was group buy done a couple of years ago and quite a few guys had cracking cores etc. All of the post group-buy (ebay) ones seemed to be of a lot better quality, or they just got better at making them and mines all good.

They're now also being shipped out of melbourne, not china so there's a possibilty you could even inspect before buying.

[kangaroosa]

No worries on the K rad, for the price you wanted it should have been sold by now! :y:

 

I did a bit of research on ausrotang about the asi before I bought mine. There was group buy done a couple of years ago and quite a few guys had cracking cores etc. All of the post group-buy (ebay) ones seemed to be of a lot better quality, or they just got better at making them and mines all good.

They're now also being shipped out of melbourne, not china so there's a possibilty you could even inspect before buying.

 

Interesting, I didnt know they were stocked locally. I might investigate that.

Did your radiator come with all the right mounts? I heard some fitting and re-drilling was necessary for most blokes. What about thermo fan allowances -Was there any mounts for them or did you have to make mounts yourself.

 

 

As for the Rad......yeah i think I payed close to $200 to have it re-cored, plus about $50 to have pipes moved a few times and clean it etc. So the $100 I get will pay for a tank of fuel and for the RX7 Rad to be freshened up which should be ready tommorrow.

[Taz_Rx]

There was no holes at all in the side brackets to mount it, so we just drilled them where we needed to. Think this is mainly because they're to fit RX2 through to RX5, but saying that they're also not really any different to a gen1 rad.

Yeah the have thermo fan mounting points (can see in ebay pic) which were supposed to be spaced right for a Spal, but some AR.com guys have found they're not quite right. I haven't done anything about my thermos yet as I have twin 10"s and need to make some extra brackets.

 

It was pretty easy to fit with 1 excepting - The hieght of the cap!!! If you sat the ASI in ontop of the oil cooler the top of the rad sat pretty much at the same hieght as the original, but the cap sat up an extra 30mm or so, causing it to foul the bonnet. Got around this by basically V-mounting the oil cooler to drop the rad down a bit further. I plan to mod my stone tray a bit to make room for this so I can straighten it back up, but I might wait a bit and get an ASI alloy oil cooler before doing this.

 

I might have to take you a pic or 2 of my engine bay. :y:

[ROTAROLLAKE30]

What engine mounts have you used, i have just bought ford escort s2 uits 70mm wide by 53mm high with 10mm stud in centre either side.

[kangaroosa]

What engine mounts have you used, i have just bought ford escort s2 uits 70mm wide by 53mm high with 10mm stud in centre either side.

 

New S1 RX7 Mounts. Circular Type.