camerondownunder88 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 Hi, I know we could go on for ages about shocks different options but I wanted a fast quick answer really. Would KE30 shocks fit a KE1X? If not why not? Also KE3X to KE7X are they all the same shocks? Cheers Cameron Quote
SLO-030 Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 From what i've read, AE86 shocks will fit a KE3x/55. 86 suspension also bolts into *E7* so its safe to say the shocks from KE3x/55's, *E7*'s and AE86 are interchangeable. id say KE1x and 2x would be different as they are mounted upright, not cambered in like on the KE3x/55's Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted December 3, 2009 Author Report Posted December 3, 2009 Ah excelent well at least I know newer models might be similar.>LOL I have been told TE27 and KE2X shocks are different but due to the diff but that is jsut a side note. How do you measure the right length of shock that would suit your car but? As I can measure my KE1X and go from there also. Cheers Cameron Quote
parrot Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 If you can wait till Saturday, i'll pull one out of the KE15 and compare it to the TE27's in the shed. Quote
fusion Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 Pretty sure a guy in SA recently used Boge Shock Absorbers for an AE86 in the rear of his KE20 recently. Thats just from memory though Cheers Fusion Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted December 3, 2009 Author Report Posted December 3, 2009 ^^^ Fusion Excellent info as I believe KE2X and KE1X have same stroke not 100% sure but. Cameron Quote
fusion Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 Heres the link for you. Pretty sure they were short stroke to. KE20 Cheers Fusion Quote
parrot Posted December 3, 2009 Report Posted December 3, 2009 Stock original fitment Toyota (Tokico) rear damper from a KE15 Extended 530mm Compressed 352mm TE27 KYB 8 way adjustable Extended 562mm Compressed 380mm This measurement is from the centre of the lower mount to the top of the uppermost hat, which sits on top of the bumpstop. Does not take into account the insulating rubbers between damper body and chassis. The diameter of a standard damper is almost half that of the aftermarket TE27 damper. Quote
parrot Posted December 5, 2009 Report Posted December 5, 2009 How about these? Standard fitment Bilsteins out of a VH Commodore wagon (GMH part number) via pickapart. Extended 530mm Compressed 330mm They might be a good option??? The standard KE15 dampers are only 32mm diameter! Quote
philbey Posted December 5, 2009 Report Posted December 5, 2009 hmm that's pretty handy to know. I wonder what the damping rate is on them. Quote
Raven Posted December 5, 2009 Report Posted December 5, 2009 Well, phil, that depends how wet you wanna get haha :P Quote
parrot Posted December 5, 2009 Report Posted December 5, 2009 Commodore wagon rears is a well known option for low AE86's, which is what I got them for. Perhaps overkill in what will be a pretty much stock KE15 but will probably give them a try at some stage. But does give some food for thought when looking for upgrade options for KE1x and KE2x where there doesn't seem to be much available off the shelf. Th AE86 has koni reds in the back presently. I'll pull one of those off soon and measure it. Quote
styler Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 (edited) hey cam besides fitting on the ends, you need to get a damper to suit your cars ride height so the travel is correct on compression and rebound. easily done by measurements on your car and then check out a catalogue or ask jason at kyb or terry at road and track for a suitable replacement. also sometimes the replacement damper bushing on the bottom can be pressed out and another bushing one substituted for the right bolt size. on rears only need to measure compression and extension on the damper and subtract the lowered amount of your car from each to end up with a shock that has factory compression and rebound travel, so the piston sits halfway in the damper body. The more it lowered your car the more important this is but some people don't even bother with it but its up to you. and as long as its roughly within +/- 10mm each way or so should be alright i would say? then remember to match you damper rates to your spring rate so they work together, say on your car if its std rear spring pack a replacement damper from a smaller car and if it has extra leafs a damper from a heavier car. on a side note for the front dampers the above applies and the damper body length and diameter are important to fit the inside the strut tube, on lowered cars must be within a captive range to stop the springs falling out and on some very low cars may need the strut tube housing cut down as it will restrict travel upwards. also i believe you can cut down a front damper shaft and rethread it at a desired point along the shaft to suit your application if it helps. Edited December 6, 2009 by styler Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.