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Posted

My leaves are flat when out of the car and bending backwards when sitting on the ground to have the car at the height I want though lol. Other option I was looking at. Just getting some coilovers and making up some rear strut towers and raising the bump stop's. Then add in some upper and lower control arms and a watts link setup.

 

Or just get some leaves done properly to suit what I want raise the bump stops and add a watts link setup.

 

It's hard with how low I want it to be lol.

Posted

mine drove like a pig when it was low, my tyres are 100mm taller than std and now its lowered 50mm so back to std ride height, all the super low does for a wagon is make it rough and dangerous when you put a bit of power down

Posted

Ah forgot about reversing the eyes :)

 

and yeah curly that is why I am looking at options. Wanting to keep it low but not to rough. I'm going to be running 275/35/15 hoosier's. Measured the guards and with rollig them should have 10mm clearance each side :P hence going a watts link setup.

Posted
Ah forgot about reversing the eyes :)

 

and yeah curly that is why I am looking at options. Wanting to keep it low but not to rough. I'm going to be running 275/35/15 hoosier's. Measured the guards and with rollig them should have 10mm clearance each side :P hence going a watts link setup.

will you ever get it registered? i don't think they will let you cut 1.5 meters of chassis away, you seem to have a bit of history with the police, be a shame to get it defected first time out, maybe it would be easier to get a ke70 wagon, if your going to run a hilux diff it will hit the floor with std bump stops, then with a bit of power the tailshaft will run flat along the tunnel, i know this cos mine does, so if you want to go that low you will have to cut the tunnel out and all of the floor out above the diff, seems like a lot of work just to attract police

Posted

My reason for wanting it around that low is for circuit work more then anything. I hate bodyroll. I will be running a vl diff shortened. Wasn't going to cut the chassis unless I put in the 4 link rear from mcdonalds brothers. Just re-mount the bump stops higher. The car will be getting engineered. So should be right for defects :bash:

Posted

The mcdonalds bro clip is designed for drag racing. Hence it would probably give you as much body roll as the stock setup.

 

Lowness isn't everthing. You can eliminate a lot of body roll while keep the car at stock height with the right setup.

I'm assuming the wagon doesn't have a rea sway bar?

Posted (edited)

yeah no rear swaybar :bash:

 

and normally the rear should be kept a little bit higher then the front for better handling? like half an inch. thats a guess, by what people suggest for vl's, hence my vl being 2.5" lower front and 2" lower rear. in all honesty the corolla should come up probably 1-2" for better handling i think.

 

 

i really like the height yours sit's at actually si :bash:

Edited by wpn36
Posted

heres the problem, VL diff is 1 in thicker in the tube, this lowers the car 1/2in, the tyres you want to run are 4in taller than std this raises it 2in, so to get the body sitting 2in lower you have to lower the car 3.5 to 4 in, this has it sitting almost on the bump stop, when you accelerate the weight transfer pushes it down till it sits on the stops, now try hitting a bump with lots of power and no suspension, so if you can figure out how to get heaps of power through little tiny tyres or your going to cut your chassis away, i think your going to end up a bit higher than you want

Posted (edited)

the tyre size is actually 4mm smaller diameter then stock, being only 35 series. will post the sizing in a sec

 

here you go.

 

th_tyressize.jpg

Edited by wpn36
Posted

Ok well the 275/35/15's are now out of the question. They are not street legal :jamie: so no idea what size tyre I will run now. Oh well got plenty of time to decide

Posted (edited)

also those tyres a to tall. i'm either going to just run thinner tyres then i would like, or go with et street 275/50/15's, but starting to lean more towards something like a 225 - 245, as i do want to take this to circuit days :blinks:

 

 

diff's out, and would probably be aiming for guard to tyre to be pretty much like this when the car is on the ground :laff:

 

th_bc567808.jpg

 

th_8572b941.jpg

 

th_60ad959e.jpg

 

also anybody got any suggestions for moving my cas to the front? i think i can run a newer model mx5 one on the front of the intake cam, but if i do that then i cannot run adjustable cam gears?

 

th_IMG_1159.jpg

 

th_IMG_1158.jpg

 

th_IMG_1157.jpg

 

th_IMG_1156.jpg

 

th_IMG_1155.jpg

 

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*edit*

 

decided i'm just going to stick a 5kte into this beast, as the car was bought with the intention of being resprayed and built to be used for a nice clean rust free daily driver that'll be cheap on fuel and still have some go about it. i just don't want to be going out and spending 10 grand or more on it, when i could put that money into savings for a house loan :(

 

Matt

Edited by wpn36

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