Ke55 Coupe...

[smeetsy1]

It's expensive for a whinning noise - pointless mod in my opinion?

 

Edit - what is the benefit of a gilmer drive?

Edited November 5, 2009 by smeetsy1

[Taz_Rx]

Less loading on water pump, alternator and crank pulleys. Search for gilmer belt in the wanted section for a better explanation in a thread for about a month ago. I also mentioned the real reason why I bought mine.

 

Charl - That price isn't too bad (but is it in AUD or USD?). Saying that though there would be a bit of work in modding it to fit. The crank pulley one would be the hardest.

 

That youtube vid is of Brodies (reTRD) KP. He organised the group buy in NZ and I just distrobuted them in Aus. Here's my kit....

[charl]

that engine in the vid is PORN!!

 

i think ill just concentrate on building the motor for now and put the gilmer drive on my christmas list for next year!

[charl]

OK, so ive been reading posts about doing up a 5k engine for the last 4 hours and i still havent got much of an idea on what to do to get what i want! Ill start by saying that i have never built an engine and don't know all the lingo but i am going to use what ive searched and read to ask if i am on the right track with the ideas!

 

so my aim is to have my 5k tuned as a mild street engine, reasonably easy to drive, lots of torque and quick, not necessarily fast! i want it quick off the line but if it doesnt do more than 120kmh i don't really mind!

 

so far i think ive gathered that i need to do the following:

 

Block:

 

Change welsch plugs

Replace studs in timing cover with bolts

Replace crank bearings and seals

get crank, conrods, pistons, pulleys and flywheel balanced

possibly bore the block and get better pistons

(what is honing?)

possibly get the flywheel lightened

 

Cam:

 

20 - 60?

I have no clue about cams, i just want it to have a nice lumpy idle!....

 

Other:

 

replace timing gears and chain with double row ones.

 

 

Head:

 

port and polish, read somewhere you can do this yourself?

what else is a good idea?

 

i would like to run twin carbies and keep it NA so any more help is appreciated, the other thing that would be appreciated are places in adelaide that can do the work for a good price?

 

as i said at the beginning, i have read loads of posts about this as well as superjamies wiki, and while i don't doubt the information is a gold mine, for a layman like me alot of it seems like its written in another language! but i am keen to learn as i would like to be able to maintain my engine myself instead of having to go to a mechanic everytime i have a problem. so please don't flame me for asking these questions and don't tell me to use the search function as that is what ove been doing for the last 2 days!!

[Taz_Rx]

First, from what you have written above its pretty obvious that you have used the search function quite a bit to obtain your info. For that reason nobody will have a good at you and say "search for it". If they do I'll delete the post! :y:

 

Ok,

Honing is basically just light machining of the cylinder bore (empty block) before refitting pistons with some new rings. Its just like re-facing a head to make sure its flat when replacing a head gasket.

If say there was something wrong with a piston or ring and it scored the bore considerable you would then need to re-bore the block and fit oversized pistons.

 

Cams - Lumpy idles normally mean big cams, .....and big RPM. This is were you need to balance practicallity with "wank factor" a bit.

Have a quick look here....

http://www.camtechcams.com.au/toy_4cyl_3k4k.html

If you get something like 608 at the bottom then you will most deffinately have a lumpy idle, but you'll have to wring its neck to make any power. Combine that with the fact you need to do a few other supporting mods (like upping the comp ratio)I don't think this would be the best choice for any daily driven car.

On the other hand if you got something like the 639 or 621 then you'll still have a bit of a lump at idle, but much better low and mid range drivability. You'll also not have to do as many other mods to make the cam work the best. IE for these cams you don't need increased compression.

 

As far as the head goes I think you might just be better off getting a pro to do it for you. Anybody can port a head...... but not everybody can do a good job of it. Its an art into itself. Just get your head reconditioned somewhere and just ask them to clean up the castings a bit and give it a bit of a polish.

[charl]

So i guess the lumpy idle is the domain of race and rally cars!!

 

so if i don't need to replace my pistons i can just get the block honed?

 

and if i get a cam would i need to tell the place i take my head to what cam i will be running?

 

also, what 5spd gearboxes fit easilly? i want a ke70 5spd, i think theyre called a t50.

Edited November 6, 2009 by charl

[fusion]

A T series engine will take a T50 easily. A K series engine will take a T50, but it will need a rare bellhousing (depends if your talking to Taz or not :y: ).

 

If you want a 5 speed for this, you will need a K50. Now a K50 from a KE70 won't fit properly. You will need to cut the shifter hole in your cabin. Therefore you want a K50 from a KE55 or KE30 so it lines up all nicely.

 

Are you doing the engine work yourself? Or are you getting someone else to do it?

[charl]

Well i am thinking ill send everything away to get done bit by bit as the money comes in but i would like to put the thing together myself when ive got all the parts back. Or maybe itll just be easier to get someone else to do everything? As far as the gearbox is concerned, i don't mind making the room for the ke70 k50 to fit as i have a ke55 auto centre console thing and this will look stock in cabin but accomodate for the shifter being further back!

[Taz_Rx]

:y: Fusion I'll always be the first to agree they're rare as rocking horse shit....... wheather you pay the rare price or not is another thing (I'm guessing your talking about my $20 BH).

 

Charl there's a heap of info in the FAQ about K-T's. But yeah be aware they're hard to find. K50 will do the job behind a mild engine anyway.

 

I think maybe you should get yourself a Haines manual (if you don't already have one) and read through the whole re-build section a couple of times. After doing that if you don't think that you're up to the task, then start looking for somebody to build your engine for you. :y:

 

so if i don't need to replace my pistons i can just get the block honed?

 

Correct

 

and if i get a cam would i need to tell the place i take my head to what cam i will be running?

 

Its wouldn't be a bad idea at all. Also tell your cam grinder what you plan on doing to the head.

Then everybody is on the same page.

[FoxInDocs]

[Taz_Rx]

....The sea monkey's stole my money!

[FoxInDocs]

....yes, I'm a natural blue....

[Murd 55]

that video really was like 5k porn :y: haha I'm still in the process of working out what i plan to do with mine that is sitting in the garage doing not much, bit dirty so prob first thing i can do is strip it down and clean it up, also i have a manual if u wanted me to like scan and send you the motor stuff in it maybe if not they come up on ebay all the time.

[charl]

ive got the manual already, I'm just trying to gather the information together first!

[charl]

OK so i washed my engine the other day to try and track down my oil leaks and this is what i found a few days later...

 

 

 

how do i fix this?

 

also my fuel gauge has given up on life and i need to sort that out to. i did post that in the mechanical help section or something but no help yet so i thought id put it here so more people will see and possibly give me some advice!

 

thanks

 

charl