JDM55 Posted October 3, 2010 Author Report Posted October 3, 2010 (edited) next the throttle body .... same again with a new gasket... throttle body came out pretty good,tryed my best to mask off the spring and the black box thing, not sure why they used cap screws when everything else on the engine is normal headed bolts, but got some new cap screws, and bolted it down, had to buy a set of allen key type sockets so i could torque the cap screws down properly, quite niffy little tools .. and there she sitts all back together looks pretty good and all clean ready for assembley ,had to put this away tho since the intake manifold isnt done yet,thats a big mission by it self ill look at the part soon tho.... Edited October 3, 2010 by JDM55 Quote
JDM55 Posted October 3, 2010 Author Report Posted October 3, 2010 couldnt afford to buy a fancy oil block thing,they were like 300 odd dollars for a proper oil block,so decided that i would just use a oil relocation adaptor,apparently there a little restrictive,but if i find problems with it i can change it later,so for the mean time the factory oil block had to go back on, heres the area where it bolts to ..... heres the oil block ,all cleaned out and painted,ready to go back on.... these two things are oil seals that go inbetween the block and the oil block,only thing was i couldnt find a pic of how there came off :bash: for the life of me couldnt remember which way they went, had alook in one of the manuals but that wasnt any help at all as that just showed the seal as a disk ,not a disk thing with a flangey bit coming off them..... finally figured them out, there was a tiny very faint oil stain on the inside of this block that was exactly where the end of the seals would have sat,so i went with puting them that way ,don't think it realy mattered to much, but i just wanted to assemble it the way it came apart.... the seals kept on falling out when i tryed to bolt the thing on, so ended up having to tilt the engine over a bit to help get them seated properly,no problem the engine stand can turn the engine completely upside down ,its pretty sweet :laff: so this was the same as the throttle body,had cap screws, althought i totaly destroyed them taking this off,there were seazed on there pretty good,so new cap screws , Quote
JDM55 Posted October 3, 2010 Author Report Posted October 3, 2010 all bolted up, fitted a new oil filter,this is tiny!! the 4k filter is like 2.5 times bigger next the engine mounts... knock sensor... this is the crank angle sensor,looks like a hall sensor and a disk that has lots of little slots in it, replaced the cas cover ..... my camera on my phone is definatley craping it self ,i used to be able to get half decent shots ,now be lucky if it gets in focus at all,can't complain realy tho ive taken around 6000-7000 photos since i started this build, may have to look at getting a new one lol on top of the camera this is my tool box,its a aus post ,post box lol its a nightmare having to scrapthru the crap every time i need to find a specific tool ,oh what fun it is to ride on a one horse open sleigh lolol Quote
JDM55 Posted October 3, 2010 Author Report Posted October 3, 2010 (edited) next wanted to put the front pulley on, but had to figure out a way to lock up the crank from turning, so i made a brace thing out of some 3mm steel plate,this bolts to the crank ,where the flywheel bolts usualy go ,and jams inbetween 2 gearbox bolts, geto creations not sure on this one,put a little bit off grease around the pulley and slide it on, hoping it wont leak,guess we will see.... heres the big ass bolt that holds the pulley on.... had to torque the bolt up to 109 ft ibs ,was frigen tight, heres my pimp new oil cap added some s/s cap screws and bolts better pic of the cas cover managed to get the alt support brakets all back on ,there were a few of them ,and also got the alt sitting on ,looks great!glad i spent the time to polish it up it seems to fit the look well, as she sitts Edited October 3, 2010 by JDM55 Quote
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted October 4, 2010 Report Posted October 4, 2010 I'm impressed, can't get any more detail than that! gotta love that colour :cool: Quote
JDM55 Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Posted October 4, 2010 I'm impressed, can't get any more detail than that! gotta love that colour :cool: cheers man,yeah were both loving the colour! show the guys at work and they we impressed also, dam it I'm impressed as well ,lol didnt think it would look like this when i started it,still a few more things to do on it, but nearly there.... Quote
Evan G Posted October 4, 2010 Report Posted October 4, 2010 i didnt no nissan sold new sr20's :P looking orgasmic mate! Quote
ninja-philbo Posted October 4, 2010 Report Posted October 4, 2010 overrated love it my old sr in my r32 looked simmilar Quote
JDM55 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Posted October 9, 2010 few more small things ,stripped the intake manifold , was going to try polish this up but it was so very grainy,sanded a test area and tryed polishing it ,but it looked so crap that i gave up on that idea and went with painting it instead, just painted it silver, came up ok i guess, next started working on replacing the water hoses and water pipes ... this end of the water pipe i had to modify,they went around the back of the engine originaly ,so had to chop and change a few bits to make them work with the corolla heater pipes 1 Quote
JDM55 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) i have decided to start the engine on the ground before it goes back in the car so i can sort out any leaks or problems ,to hard to fix them while in the car, so have looped a hose on the heater end, few more things fitted,knock sensor woring and temp wiring,and a couple more pipes i assembled the plenium to the manifold with new gaskets and new bolts, then attached the manifold to the engine,starting to look like a real engine again can see how tight every thing is under the manifold, but its all connected up and in a tidy way painted a few small brackets matt black to clean them up then added these new rubber grommet and washer things and some cap nuts ,and some more wiring brackets, unfortunatley when i tightened the nuts down i found oil was leaking out from under the rocker cover gasket >| wasnt to happy at all, ended up taking the rocker cover off,which i realllyyy didnt want to do , but none the less it came off,surprisingly it was very clean under there i was realy expecting to see alot of oil gunk and crusty build up but there was hardly any,... Edited October 9, 2010 by JDM55 Quote
JDM55 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) realy still not sure about this rocker cover,i luckly had a new gasket ,and fitted it to the cover, fitted it back to the engine and torqued the bolts down according to info i found on the net still not sure if it was right guess have to wait and see it it leaks again , on a brighter note,i thought that the engine needed a bit of a finishing touch sorta thing ,so instead of putting the orignal coil pack cover back on i made me own, just a bit of a random flame design that i came up with , cut out of a few mm alloy ,then sanded and polished up,test fitted and bolted on with some cap screws, personaly i think it looks awesum :wink: Edited October 9, 2010 by JDM55 Quote
JDM55 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Posted October 9, 2010 replaced the coil packs and wiring loom, and fitted the cover back up Quote
JDM55 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Posted October 9, 2010 also because I'm starting the engine out of the car i needed to make something to hold it rather than just let it sitt on the ground, i got my old x member and attached it to a crate, sprayed some white on it just for the hell of it and finally i made a jig up to hold the fuel rail while i worked on the injectors, heard some nasty storys about the sr20 injectors being a pain in the ass, so i was very careful while removing these, the best way to get these out is to remove the injector cap, replace the screws back into the fuel rail , screw them right to the bottom then back them off about 1/2 a turn ,get 2 small flat bladed screw drivers ,insert the tips of the drivers into the small recesses in the sides of the injectots,and use the screws as a sort of levering post, pushing down on the 2 screw drivers with equal pressure, then unwinding the screws about 1-2 turns at a time then levering again ,so on and so on,they come up slowly but surely with out doing any damage,i also used a litle crc to help lossen them, they were fairly tight this one you can see the little slot on the side of the injector thats about it for another week , enjoy Quote
ninja-philbo Posted October 10, 2010 Report Posted October 10, 2010 nice as dude and the coilpac cover is a good idea as it will help keep the coils cool as thats a big issue with the nissan motors. Quote
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