Sr20 Conversion To Ke55 Plus Rebuild Plus Pimpage

[Crowie55]

Engine bay and stealthy loom look great Ryan! Wish you all the best for a speedy recovery and hassle free work on the rolla :y:

Cheers, Crowie

[JDM55]

looks good mang, i still got your fuel tank here!

 

cheers evan,its coming together nice,ill have to make a visit when shes running ,come for a cain :)

haha i forgot bout that tank, mite still need it ,i got one ,just gota see it it not gona leak ,a few

fuel tests coming soon ,fuel lines are the next big thing on the list ,something that is a bit tricky

braided lines and speed flow fittings cost a fortune, and then you gota fitt them right or leak city,lol

the joys

[JDM55]

Engine bay and stealthy loom look great Ryan! Wish you all the best for a speedy recovery and hassle free work on the rolla :y:

Cheers, Crowie

 

 

ah thank you mate for your kind words,recovery is slow and i don't want to over do it,but the same time I'm itching to work on the thing

and get it done haha,yes loving the loom stuff,always like wiring stuff up so its not to hard,should look pretty tidy in there once things

are all back in,cheers mate

[JDM55]

not any pics today but been getting my engine sorted should be putting it in shortly :) heres a bit of a fly by to watch of my engine on the stand,give you an idea how much work ive actualy done to this thing :)

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpm_SS6Ra_I&feature=youtu.be

[shaded_shadows_KE55]

Whoo you and me bud on the first club cruse you can attend. SR20 powered rollers all the way.

4k? What is a 4k? I defiantly don't miss my old one anyway. These cars should have always had a 2.0 litre motor.

can't wait for you to finish her.

[JDM55]

so ive been checking out my gear box and trying to get it sorted how ever ive come across a potentail problem, its a bit hard to explaing , I'm using the bell housing form and sr20 box and the box it self is an rb20 ,to start with, for some reason the fork that pushes the thrust bearing seems to be abit long,and ive had to space out the slave using some thick nuts sl that the slave would line up with the fork properly, thats the first problem , ive got the fork from the sr20 and the rb 20 boxes and they are the same, so it leads me to think that the bell housing is maybe slightly smaller on the sr20 or the mounting of the slave is slightly difernt on the other.

so thats problem one, and not a big deal realy becasue ive spaced the slave out and its lined up with the fork so it should operate fine,

the next problem is slightly bigger tho,

try to explain, the thrust bearing is mounted to a tube sort of thing that the fork rests on and pushes when the pedal is depressed, now this tube thing

(sorry don't know that right term for it so gona call it a tube thingy) this tube that has the thrust bearing on it,slides up and down on the gearbox main shaft,

how ever there is a ressesse in side the tube thing ,i believe its like that to keep grease in the center of the tube ,

how ever when the fork is pushed say to far back it makes the tube slide forward to far and that resses or step in the tube ,hangs up on the input shaft and wont return with out realigning it on the shaft, I'm not sure how far the fork moves when its in operation but I'm asuming it moves more than 30 mm????????

it may not be any thing to worry about and as long as theres pressure on the bearing the hole time its in there it wont goto far forward,

does any one know how much the clutch fork would move on a sr gearbox??? and does anyone know if when the gear box and engine are put together does the thrus bearing rest constantly on the pressure plate?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

 

done a ruff scribble of the tube and thrust bearing so can see what i mean ,

 

 

any ideas any one???? maybe i could make a stoper that stops the fork going too far back ,thus cancelling the chance of the bearing /tube thingy getting hung up?? but realy it should just work like a normal gear box set up???? dam modds some time there just a pain in the ass, any way any help be great.

Edited December 11, 2011 by JDM55

[JDM55]

no one got any ideas???

 

well i made a stopper to start with but this will only work if theres pressure on the thrust bearing,

ive asked a few mechanics and they seem to think there is pressure on the bearing constantly so could be ok,

but I'm still not convinced,

 

think I'm going to do a test by puting the gear box on to the engine , set it up in front of the car and

run a dodgy line from the clutch master to the slave on the box,

then bleed out the line ,and test the movement of the pedal and the fork .big fingers crossed it will work and

the tube thingy dosent hang up.......

 

tonite i got the engine on the ground off the stand ,caught my hand under it and stuft my hand up, yes silly ,but its

a bit difficult doing this on you own ,any way the engine is off the stand after well over a year,

also managed to get the fly wheel back on and a new clutch, fingers crossed that all works well,

torquing up the fly wheel with 98 foot pounds of pressure realy gave me a work out!! but i got it done,just took a bit

of straining lol

Edited December 12, 2011 by JDM55

[JDM55]

well the kicks keep on coming don't they,very disapointed I'm myself and in the way things are going , the priveous problem with the

thrust bearing turns out to be nothing to worry about at all,in fact its the complete reverse that is now become the next drama in this never ending build,:(

turns out the pedal dosnt have enought throw to push the pin all the way into the clutch master, and now that i think about ,when i constructed the set up

on the pedal box, it was to suit a 180sx clutch master,but since then finding out that that one would not fit in the engine bay ,becasue the engine got in the

way ,so i changed it to the ta22 celica small master, it fits next to the engine just .

 

tonite ive done a test , engine and gear box connected with a line running from the master to the slave on the box ,bleed the line out and no mater which way i

adjusted things , it all came back to the pedal just hasnt got enough throw to push the piston all the way to the end ,which in turn dosent push the clutch fork all the

way , so yeah very disapointed , every thing is just a real battle ,I'm not realy pissed off casue I'm used to these dramas in this car build , but i just can't see how to fix the situation ,

 

i definatly don't want to try another clutch master as the ta22 is perfect fit where it is its just so tight and close to everything,

just don't know , has any one uses a ta22 clutch master and got it to work ,????????? maybe i need to mod the pedal again to give it more throw,sum how

I'm just flat out of ideas on this one ,

[SLO-030]

Could you possibly find a slave cylinder with a smaller bore? Your master cylinder will still move exactly the same distance, but the slave will require less fluid to move the same distance. Meaning you will get more movement at the slave.

[JDM55]

Could you possibly find a slave cylinder with a smaller bore? Your master cylinder will still move exactly the same distance, but the slave will require less fluid to move the same distance. Meaning you will get more movement at the slave.

 

 

 

i was kinda thinking something along those lines ,how ever finding another master that bolts on the same mite be tricky, any way i stuft around tonite

and managed to get some sort of results, pulled the whole pedal box out , and seriously modded it ,and the clutch pedal ,i added like 3 inches of lenght

to the pedal and redesigned where it bolts on , so the pivot point is 3 inchs higher than where it was originaly

this has actualy given me full travel of the master!! :) so from completely out to completely bottoming out the master with the clutch pedal,

and the whats even stranger than that working is right above the clutch pedal is a small raised section that alowwed for the pedal to be raised!

thank you toyota for thinking of putting that there for me :) ,so the pedal box now gives me full travel of the master , how ever I'm yet to test this out and

see if it will work with the slave cyclinder , but I'm hopefull this will make a big difference /???.?/.?///./?> probably try again friday nite ,'

 

FINGERS CROSSED@@@@

[JDM55]

sooo friday nite , well after modding the pedal and the pedal box, i mounted it back in the car, set up the engine and gear box together again on a crate,then connected a line from the clutch master to the slave again,,,, started to bleed the clutch and it was getting very firm , the slave seemed to be getting there , definatly had more movement than the last time but then al of a sudden boom!!! , the clutch pedal completely snaped under the pressure! turns out where i had welded in a piece of steel to lenghten the pedal snaped clean off at the weld

:bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash:

after several minutes of swearing and cracking the shits, calmed down abit decided to pull the clutch pedal out and try weld it again ,at least for a temporary fix ,realy needed to see if the clutch was going to work ,was starting to drive me nuts,

pulled the pedal bits out and found the break was snapped off where i had grinded down the welds, must have grinded a bit to much off and it wasnt too strong, not to worry the pedal was only a temp test just to see if i could get the dam clutch to work,

rewelded the clutch pedal again with a rediculous weld ,lol was determined to make this thing work,

got the fixed pedal back in and continued bleeding the clutch,

the clutch was bleed as much as i could ,no air in the lines , but daaammmmm the pedal was firm !!! i guess the heavy duty clutch just has a heavy duty pedal ,will take a while to get used to that for sure,

any way the clutch was bleed , the broken pedal was fixed and it held with the pressure,and the clutch works !!! got good travel with the new set up and enough to move the clutch fork in and out, but not come to close to the stopper that i had put in there,guess i didnt need the stopper after all,ah well better safe than sorry .

 

so with that all done i was very happy , the only thing holding me back from moving forward was making sure the clutch works,

so with that out of the way ,i couldnt stop there, got the motivation to fit the engine!!! , been a long long time coming to fit the

engine,its been sitting on the stand for over a year now,so getting to actualy fit it was great.

Edited December 17, 2011 by JDM55

[SLO-030]

Good stuff Ryan! Glad to hear its all progressing and that you've pretty much solved the clutch issues.'

 

Need pics of motor fitted! :yes:

[JDM55]

boom!!! :)

 

 

 

 

trust me when it say this took a long time to fit! was done very slowly using seat belts and chains on a engine crain,

didnt want to scratch anything!!it was very tight and been a long time since i done this so was a bit hazy on the process,

but shes in and how sexy does it look!!!! :wink:

,getting the engine in and seeing it look this good has given me a boost, and realy want to get it running ! its been a very long road,3 years so far, for me thats a very long time to be working on one project,i know some guys can take up to 5 years etc,but i think under the circumstances I'm doing pretty good ,just money is holding me back a bit ,but bits and pieces here and there and stuff seems to be falling into place.

 

i have 10mm at the fire wall its rediculously tight.

 

 

the strut brace should help make it nice and firm,how ever theres been that much strenghting done,it mite not mater to much,but it looks very pimp :)

 

only a small intercooler for this car,want to keep things a bit on the discrete side,so matt black full front , and custom mounted intercooler,

with modded rad support

[JDM55]

Good stuff Ryan! Glad to hear its all progressing and that you've pretty much solved the clutch issues.'

 

Need pics of motor fitted! :yes:

 

 

thanks man I'm wraped ,its just another small step closer, theres some pics for you :)

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

Awesome, really outstanding work! Car of the year next year for sure!

 

pulled the pedal bits out and found the break was snapped off where i had grinded down the welds, must have grinded a bit to much off and it wasnt too strong, not to worry the pedal was only a temp test just to see if i could get the dam clutch to work,

 

When you butt weld something like this, leave an (appox) 3mm gap between the two pieces you are welding, the weld will soak in much better, giving a flush finish weld, and more strength. :y: