JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 so i had a ruff plan to get the engine painted this week end, how ever as things usualy go a small job turns into a major mission, continuing with the stripping mission on the block.... removed the knock sensor and the water temp sensor housing ..... turn my attention to this oil filter block thing,ummed and ahhh about taking this off ,ended up deciding to take it off, probably get a remote oil filter thingo,and try get a better bigger oil filter, the sr20 ones are frigen so small as you will see.... that oil block thing was on there sooo tight!! has to use vice grips and allen keys at the same time and wack the @#$% out of it , just managed to get it off before the cap screws got rounded,feeeewwwwwww, heres the sr oil filter in compare to a hammer ..,.,., tinnyyy Quote
Evan G Posted September 18, 2010 Report Posted September 18, 2010 I'm pretty sure if you undo the bolts holding the fuel rail in, you can just pull the injectors and rail off Quote
JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 some nice tasty oil dripping out apparently its a good idea to use a proper oil adaptor that bolts straight to the block rather than one of those universal round oil relocation things( apparently they restrict the oil flow a bit, so good move on removing this then next turned my attention to the exhaust side.... removed the water outlet .... then looking at the exhaust manifold, was a bit worryed about this because when i removed the turbo it self ,had a few dramas with the studs snaping on me :bash: :bash: wasnt looking forward to a repeat performance of that ,so sprayed the hell out of the bolts with crc and let them sit for a bit,then carefully undone the bolts ontop of the manifold holding the heat sheild in place, these were rusted to the s house,had to take it easy here, got them off there was only 4 of them they were stuft when i got them off tho, anyway done the same with the exhaust manifold, sprayed the hell out of the bolts , cracked them a little and sprayed again,so on and so on, most came out ok,but a couple of the studs came out completely,no biggy got it off with out snapping and destroying anything , :happy: Quote
JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 I'm pretty sure if you undo the bolts holding the fuel rail in, you can just pull the injectors and rail off yeah still researching that one mate apparently there are a c#$t so want to make sure i do it right,ill be screwed if i break an injector :bash: Quote
Evan G Posted September 18, 2010 Report Posted September 18, 2010 Removal: SR20 injectors can actually be quite difficult to remove if you don't know the technique. Which can result in damage to the injectors, damage to fingers and general bad language. To avoid these nasties try the following technique: Bleed fuel pressure from the system by removing the fuel pump fuse, relay or wiring to fuel pump with the engine running. It should take a couple seconds before pressure goes to zero and the engine dies. Remove screws and retaining cap. Replace screws - screw them in until they just bottom on the fuel rail and then back them off a turn. Using 2 small screwdrivers and the screws as jacking posts, lever the injector out. You may need to back the screws out and use the screwdrivers several times before they pop out. Quote
JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 fairly clean in the ports was quite happy about that, started cleaning this side,i used prepsol with a brush and soaked it all up , then used a red scotchy and sanded with that to get all of the oil dirt grease and crust off, here you can see the top part is clean ,just working my way down one side, this is where the small job turned into a huge job, i thought wouldnt take me long to clean and sand the block,,,,, i was wrong :lolcry: it took many many hours if scrubing and wiping , by the time i got to the front , i figued out to use the same scotchy magic wheel that was used on the polishing stage ,this made things go alot quicker but still took ages.... this is what one side looked like after the process:::: realy clean :dance: now the front...... Quote
JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 Removal: SR20 injectors can actually be quite difficult to remove if you don't know the technique. Which can result in damage to the injectors, damage to fingers and general bad language. To avoid these nasties try the following technique: Bleed fuel pressure from the system by removing the fuel pump fuse, relay or wiring to fuel pump with the engine running. It should take a couple seconds before pressure goes to zero and the engine dies. Remove screws and retaining cap. Replace screws - screw them in until they just bottom on the fuel rail and then back them off a turn. Using 2 small screwdrivers and the screws as jacking posts, lever the injector out. You may need to back the screws out and use the screwdrivers several times before they pop out. hahha yip got that one thanks evan, this technique sounds the most sensible from the ones ive read , one guy was saying wack it with a hammer!!!!!!!! hahahah what a helmet, :no: Quote
Evan G Posted September 18, 2010 Report Posted September 18, 2010 prying yes, hitting with a hammer? wtf! Quote
JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 (edited) half way thru cleaning the front this section was probably the most dirty part of the hole engine and it wasnt realy that bad, even cleaned up the bottom.... another thing ive read about the sr is not to run the engine if you have dents in your sump!!! woops :bash: ,well at least i didnt have it running terribly long so can't see why it would be damaged, any way closer inspection ,the sump is stuft with a big ass dent... so another part to buy lol, heres somewhat of a surprise to find,the s13 sr20 have rather a small oil pick up and it you install a s14 oil pick up its considered an upgrade due to the size in the oil pick up opening , SURPRISE! some ones already done it on my motor!!!! so that was a bonus :dance: here ive moved to the intake side and the top part has been cleaned and masked up.... due to my water pump being stuft ,the bearing was grinding and squealing,( i suspect the fan belt mite have been a lil to tight)had to replace it with a new item, and finally after many many many hours of cleaning and scotchy and fingers getting slamed in to sharp sticking out bits ,its all clean and ready to do something with, now pretty disapointed in my self here :bash: :bash: :bash: :bash: usualy do better work than this , think i was just so tired from scrubing for 2 days, any way, i was to lazy to find some special heat paint so opted for some base coat silver ,it will probably fall off eventulay , but meh if it does the block is clean as hell any way lololol, should be enuff to get me through engineers any way, so on with the masking, was gona spray it out side ,then decided stuff it ill do it in the oven,how ever how to get the stand in the ovem???????? becasue the grating on the floor is all spaced the stand wouldnt roll over it to easy , so had to go get some mdf boards and make myself a road hahaha, seemed to work pretty good ,one foot in front of the other type of thing.... Edited September 18, 2010 by JDM55 Quote
JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 prying yes, hitting with a hammer? wtf! hahaha yeah he was like convinced it was a sick way to do it , :hammer: Quote
JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 (edited) check this beast out!!!!!!! its a new trolley jack my boss got ,its completely made of alloy!!!!!!!! and it looks sick as!!! some sort of pimp my ride trolley jack!!! hahahah i love it, this thing is soooooooo light you can push it with one finger, beats the old 20 ton things you have to drag around the shop and it looks sick!!!! did i mention it looks sickkkk??? well it does :dance: rolling on the yellow brick road, or should i say the mdf wood road lol so doors closed temp on 30 degress ,sitting there ready to spray, and i thought stuff it id paint it yellow... no not realy ,this is the etch primer,just helps the paint stick abit better to the surface, Edited September 18, 2010 by JDM55 Quote
JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 base clear this bit looks crap ,got messy with the sealer stuff :bash: :bash: :bash: thats about it for the moment Quote
Undertaker_is_the_best Posted September 18, 2010 Report Posted September 18, 2010 exactly mate ,a lil bit here and there and the next thing you done a hole chunk ;-) yea cause i know that feeling aye thats how my celica has been through its build Quote
JDM55 Posted September 18, 2010 Author Report Posted September 18, 2010 yea cause i know that feeling aye thats how my celica has been through its build i think its just the case of if your doing something properly then it just takes time,to get it right, thats how i find it any way, how long you been on the silly car for now? Quote
Undertaker_is_the_best Posted September 18, 2010 Report Posted September 18, 2010 well the grey one i have i spent close to 9 months on it before i found a better car to use for the road but i have had the one thats green since march this year so its still slow progress there are days when i want to work on it but other things get in the way and i spends some weekends off working on it Quote
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