Sr20 Conversion To Ke55 Plus Rebuild Plus Pimpage

[JDM55]

well been a bit sick the last few weeks,so havnt got much done but back into it now ,and away we go,

 

thought id deal to this hole in the floor ,and tidy it up a bit ,

 

 

 

 

so made abit of a cover up from sheet steel,,,,,

 

 

covered it with a bit of sound proofing .......

 

 

 

got it all screwed down.....

 

 

 

and gave the gear stick abit of paint and cleaned up the boot rubber ,and it looks like this

 

[JDM55]

so started looking at the fuel system , hoping i can do this with out having to pay some one,its a bit of a big job and first time ive stuff around with lines and hoses and stuff so fingers crossed can make it work some how,

 

so basicly done a few searchs and found a guide in the faq for an intank pump set up,which is the way I'm going,,

 

intank pump

surge tank

filter

fuel pump

check valve

fuel pressure guage

efi filter

returns

 

thats the general idea i have so far,pretty much just connect the dots ,with a few of the dots being a prick lol

 

so using the guide and a bit of advice from a few people ,started my intank set up,first problem i came across

was the 55 has the fuel sender and pick up tubes all in one piece,this makes for very fiddley stuff geting a pump and wiring and

all that into the one piece, so ive done away with the 55 fuel tank and got a ke30 tank ,that gave me the option of having the fuel sender seperate to the pump set up,this helps alot and as i found out it was still tight ,

 

first thing i did was got some bundy tube, i ended up with 3/8ths, i had some 5/16 that i was going to use but found after a little research that the dash 6 line/fittings that i was going to use was a little harder to fit up to the 5/16s bundy so opted for the 3/:(

also hoping that the 3/8ths size (close to 10 mm ) will give the fuel sysems a good flow and hopefully support any future upgrades ,ie turbo ,injectors bla bla,

 

so sust the size of the tube needed, bent some into 90 degree angles, worked out how long i wanted each piece,

got some tube sleeves and tube nuts and slide them on and had the end of the tubes flared,

now I'm not very confident at all about this connection , people have told me it will work fine ,dunno just seems a little dodgey to me,

 

i put the pipes in a bucket of water and blasted 50 psi thru them to see if i could see any air bubbles coming out around the connections, but i couldnt ,so guess have to wait and see if they are going to leak or not,, any one done these tube nut/ flare set up before???????????

 

 

 

 

so with the pipes in place and the connections fitted up moved on to fitting up the wiring terminal and the pump,

 

i used a vl turbo pre pump ,its quite small but just fitts in the hole of the tank,so again fingers crossed to see if its going to be strong enuff to do the job.......

 

and heres the finished part, ke55 petrol tank part with 3/:D bundy tubes and -6 speed flow connections,holden vn wiring terminal and wiring,and a holden vl turbo fuel pump

 

 

and fitted to the 30 tank

 

 

Edited August 21, 2010 by JDM55

[JDM55]

next bit of custom was the fuel sender itself,casue I'm using a after market fuel guage i can't use the ke30 sender(the ohms are wrong)

so any way i got a rci 7060b fuel sender ,they use these things in fuel cells,

but apon trying to fit it to the tank i found 3 problems, first the arm on the sender was all wrong for the tank

and 2nd the sender it self wouldnt realy locate in a resonable place( it slided around abit when trying to clamp it down)

3rd there were lots of hole in the sender disk! :D :? :bash:

 

 

 

after a bit of thought, i figured to cross breed the 2 senders, using the new senders guts and the ke30s mounting disk thingo,

this way i get rid of the holes in the disk,and the sender will fit as per factory.....

 

so chop chop................

 

 

 

a bit of modding to the disk and got the sender fitting up to it fine,and then made up a arm to suit the tank.....

 

 

 

and fitted as per factory :(

 

[JDM55]

also started a bit of wiring ,I'm sure any one who has done there own wiring knows how much of a time consuming thing this is ,susing out everything and testing wires etc etc , any way this is a relay board i made up for the fuel pump in the tank, got it fitted and tidyed up

 

 

[LXY-642]

coming along nicely man :( new engine mount's look good. and that fuel tank looks pretty sexy i must admit :D

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

great work mate, very tidy.

[JDM55]

thanks guys, yeah I'm much happier with the new mounts ,look way better, and some how managed to get a bit more clearances,always good,and always amazing what a lil paint can do to old rusty parts haha,pretty much starting at the back with the fuel system working to the engine ,then going to be going to the back again with an exhaust system, all very slow time consuming stuff but stating to see some progress i guess, come along way from last year when i pulled it off the road...

Edited August 23, 2010 by JDM55

[LXY-642]

We shall have to go for a cruise sometime when both our cars are finished I reckon :)

[JDM55]

We shall have to go for a cruise sometime when both our cars are finished I reckon :blinks:

 

 

 

 

sounds good to me mate :jamie:

[LXY-642]

Hey man. Just wondering how much clearance you have over your crossmember? And if you have any idea on what the minimum clearance needed is?

[oh what a nissan feeling!]

10mm from an engineers perspective.

[JDM55]

yeah 10mm if you have rubber mounts ,solid mounts alot less, ive got 10 mm every where but about 13 or so from sump to crossmember,

[LXY-642]

Solid mounts are legal?

[JDM55]

depends what your engineer is like, you know they make up there own rules these days, my boss has a 800 hp big block in a charger solid mounted fully engineered in victoria of all places,

[LXY-642]

Might have to give my engineer a call when I get a chance then