Karllos' Ae112r Sportivo Turbo

[Karllos]

Doof Doof

[Karllos]

Now the question is wether to coil or not to coil?

[Karllos]

So il let the following do the talking... :D

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SoulSearcher]

nice pictures....ride height looks good too :D

[SportivoPSI]

nice pics :D What suspension is that?

[Karllos]

nice pics ;) What suspension is that?

 

Technically they're ISC Coilovers, there is a guy in NZ known as Bazda who is a parts retailer and has these custom made springs shocks and made to fit AE series rollas.

 

Karl.

[SportivoPSI]

pricey? the missus broke the front skirt on a driveway that she didnt have enough angle on and now shes all against lowering it!

I'm like noooooo! It has to be lowred if your putting bigger wheels on! ;) BTW nice rims :D What stud pattern measurement is our

rollas? 4x ...??

[MYSTIK[RL]]

What stud pattern measurement is our rollas? 4x ...??

 

4 x 100, with offset of +35 to +40

 

anyways i am looking into a set of these to compliment my new engine setup ;) did you get 8kg/6kg or 6kg/4kg?

[Karllos]

4 x 100, with offset of +35 to +40

 

anyways i am looking into a set of these to compliment my new engine setup ;) did you get 8kg/6kg or 6kg/4kg?

 

8kg Fronts

6kg Rears

 

They are actually a really nice ride, i previously had an S13 with TIEN coilovers and the ride was horrible and bouncy and uber hard. With these you feel the road but its not back breaking!

 

I'm actually overjoyed with how they've turned out!

 

P.S. They are the full race shocks not the street race option

 

Karl.

[greenmac80]

i would have thought that with a FWD you'd want stiffer springs in the rear? to try and keep the cars's weight down over the front? to provide better traction?

[Karllos]

i would have thought that with a FWD you'd want stiffer springs in the rear? to try and keep the cars's weight down over the front? to provide better traction?

 

Just purely as a weight Point of view, 3/4 of my weight on my car is at the front so warrants heavier spring rates, where as if it was an MR2 then it would be round the other way. But all in all its fine juggling act, between to too stiff, what you enjoy driving and what is too soft.

 

Karl.

 

EDIT: and if what you're saying is that softer springs will help with traction is the opposite for me, harder the less rebound and less movement so therefore traction ;)

Edited May 25, 2010 by Karllos

[Karllos]

Soo have this knock in the front end of my engine... and no don't suggest CV joints lol its hardly consistent and does it even when there is no power and when the clutch is in...

 

I believe its speed consistent and comes and goes, hardly consistent...

 

Have replaced engine mounts suspension mounts, ball joints, about to do wheel bearings... after that then I guess il have to do Cv Joint/driveshaft... JOY

[Karllos]

Well a small and somewhat irrate update..

 

THE GOOD:

Taken my existing manifold off for Kelway to get the position of the turbo all matched up should be done in a week and a bit

 

THE BAD:

When I took my turbo off i noticed the compressor wheel was hard to spin and stopped immediately after i had let go.. knew this wasn't exactly good and went to recheck it Monday, was even worse that it was before.. so took it down to Adelaide Turbo Services, and asked them to look at it, basically said nahh thats not right, but Bill was not there so he couldn't give me a definitive answer..

 

What gives me the shits is its not even 9 months old and its already knackered!! Plus side though still under warranty!

 

Soo got the word back from Turbo Services, pretty summarised but effectively the rear seal has blown as a result of excess oil bypass or something similar and as such a larg amount of carbon build up has gotten into the inner workings of the turbo, aka the bearings the shaft the well everything!!

 

So I'm still not sure whats going on with warranty but I'm sure as hell I don't wanna pay for it... 9 month old turbo and its knackered already!! Total bullshit..

 

The good thing about it is I gave it all to a workshop to fix and put it all together with proper specs.. so they can pay for the stuff up.

 

I went down there, yesterday and saw the turbo its not in good shape!!

Massive layer of black hard carbon build up on the heat shield, apparently oil is pooling in the turbo and can't drain away quick enough so the rear seal has worn away and has let exhaust carbon through into my turbo.

 

The rear exhaust wheel is completely white! I mean like starch white.

 

He says its not under warranty as Garrett hasnt had a fault with the turbo, so its either down to me or the workshop I paid ALOT of money to put it all together and make sure everything would be able to cope with the upgraded size and capacity of the new turbo..

 

They obviously haven't flow tested ANYTHING!!

 

I took my drain into A.T.S. this morning and straight away he said 'nahh thats crap!' this is about 10mm too small, internal diameter is prob 8mm where as the Min recommended for the GT25 is 16mm..

 

So he's speaking to the workshop who he told me to go to and sorting everything out

 

All new drain with a plug being welded into the sump, and new breather being attached where my existing drain flows.

 

So all is looking up for my baby, Maybe within the next week get both my Manifold and my Turbo back

[Taz_Rx]

Ball bearing turbos don't like lots of oil pressure like bush bearings. About 16psi is around the magic number. Do you know if a pressure restrictor was fitted to the turbo oil feed line? Would be a little fitting with a hole in it about 0.8m ID.

 

As for the drain, so what were you running, -8?

[Karllos]

Not entirely sure about the restrictor but it is on the list of things to ask when I go to pick the turbo up

 

As for the drain internal diameter would have been about 8mm where as it is rated for a minimum of 16mm!!

 

So Bill from A.T.S says thats where the issue lies, will talk to him about a restrictor as well, but in saying that the bearings are fine so... will have to suss it all out.