LittleRedSpirit Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Posted March 4, 2011 Made a graph as best I could with the 2 dyno sheets. I know different dynos different day etc but was as similar as it can be under the circumstances. It seems to show what I was looking for. It drops away after making a stronger peak. I'm faced with the choice of opening up the inlet some more and trying to get it more air for the last 1500rpm of the band, or shortening the rev limit by 700 rpm or so to avoid running where there is no point anyhow. Its clear the bigger throttles before breathed better at the top of the rpm band, but this setup does a lot more work before it even gets there. Decisions, Decisions. Now I need to revise part throttle maps. Wish it would stop raining, the arse dyno fails in the rain. :cool:
Trev Posted March 4, 2011 Report Posted March 4, 2011 Was there any difference in the ramp rate from this dyno to the last?
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Posted March 4, 2011 I'm not sure how either was set up. I was really there for afrs. I think the curve shape is more relevant than the figures at play, it drives more powefully in those areas so I think it describes the trend in delivery well.
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Posted March 5, 2011 Yeah every motor needs cams. I'm happy with it, its grunty, its a street car, I just don't have to push it as hard to get the same performance out of it s before. I have the money there to cam it if I want to but I'm better off having my bellhousing made for the 2azfe vehicle (its booked in to extreme custom btw). Then Ill cam that up one day. There are 272s with 10mm lift available for the 2azfes from Brian Crower in the US, plus stroker kits, pistons, rods, valve springs, sleeves, you can go up to around 2.7 litres with the 2azfe if you have a little money to spend (4500US). There are well built turbo 2azfes going close to 500HP. Thats a lot of power from a lighweight block. Id be happy with 200hp NA from it some day.
timbo Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) noice mate! times? and in that first vid i think its a ltd? Edited March 10, 2011 by timbo
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) Yeah the last is a gts, and he stuffed the start. I got a bit in front and he got a bit of a shock I think. Run - 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 60' -2.203-2.157-2.165-2.104-2.112 1/8 -10.10-9.994-10.03-9.943-9.970 1/4 -15.77-15.62-15.64-15.58-15.62 MPH -85.86-85.53-86.14-86.30-86.09 I can hit the limiter earlier than before but would need to switch to 4.1s to make this gearing work. I didn't get a best time but I got a great 60 footer, and it does better burnouts at the staging area also. It was also 80% humidity and 22 degrees so not ideal conditions. At one point there was an oil down for over an hour, and then a few runs later, another one for 20 minutes or more. Spent a lot of time waiting for 5 runs. Edited March 10, 2011 by LittleRedSpirit
timbo Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 good to see some runs after the dyno anyway, from what i can hear the car sounds a little different. all impressive non-the-less.
mungi mods Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 thanks for the invite... lol nice and consistent though, the 510 needs a little suspension work , bouncing all over the track
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 11, 2011 Author Report Posted March 11, 2011 I just ordered some techno toy tuning velocity stacks and a crank pulley in silver. Trying to get it to spin more freely at high rpm. You save around 1kg of rotating weight with the pulley alone so that should help. I also wanted to swap the velocity stacks after dynoing the car and seeing how the top end power drops away. It does hurt you a little bit at the drags I think, as I was doing faster 60 foot times but the same ETs. I put some fresh oil in the diff, Penrite Limslip 85/140. Will do the box oil soon, aswell. I'm considering some redline oil but man it is expensive. I heard it improves shifting action. Has anyone else tried it? I also fitted the newly powdercoated heatshield above the muffler. I don't know why I bothered, why not eh. Did a spanner check of all the nuts and bolts in the rear end, it was all nice and tight. I still can't get rid of the leaky seal on the rear rhs of the diff, so I cleaned the wheel just so I can gauge exactly how fast its leaking. I think my axle might be slightly warped and flogging the seal out. Must have had fun doing the burnouts at the drags Wednesday night. There is a record amount of rubber stuck to the rear guards. Picked up some new seals for the top cover bolts. They will hopefully help keep it clean once the cover is refinished.
LittleRedSpirit Posted March 11, 2011 Author Report Posted March 11, 2011 thanks for the invite... lol nice and consistent though, the 510 needs a little suspension work , bouncing all over the track Sorry, I forgot to call. Doh. Wasn't a good night for spectators anyhow, or drivers, with the oil down and all that. Yeah Jons car was in need of some further chassis tuning to make it either hook up or spin smoother. It was tramping and bouncing a lot eh. I think it made him a bit shy of the throttle off the line.
timbo Posted March 11, 2011 Report Posted March 11, 2011 i'm running redline lightweight shockproof in my box. it does shift a bit smoother. if you are keen i'll go halves in a gallon off ebay for $95, i'm about to aquire a t40...
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