TRD ke70 Posted July 21, 2010 Report Posted July 21, 2010 (edited) Yes but the bigger bore master cylinder will take more effort to move and not have to move as far to displace enough fluid, the smaller cylinder will be easier to move as it displaces less per given distance. Short answer is more feel I guess, as the stock size is a bit large a piston to use without a booster I'm guessing. Thats my rationale anyhow, Id like to hear Chris and Tonys input too. Yip, spot on Matt, if you use larger cylinders it requires more effort to apply the same force to the brake pistons. This is quite a common misconception when it comes to hydraulics, it's the same with hyd handbrakes as well, use a large cylinder and the hand brake will be like rock, use a smaller cylinder and you'll be able to apply more force. The easiest way for me to explain it is: push some one with your hand, it won't hurt them, but poke them with your finger, they'll feel it more. f@$k hope that makes sense!! We have been using this setup since 1990 and it really does supply a good feel with little effort. I'll confirm exactly what size cylinders we use with Tony. Yip they are 5/8 cylinders we use!!! Edited July 21, 2010 by TRD ke70
Trev Posted July 21, 2010 Report Posted July 21, 2010 Yip, spot on Matt, if you use larger cylinders it requires more effort to apply the same force to the brake pistons.This is quite a common misconception when it comes to hydraulics, it's the same with hyd handbrakes as well, use a large cylinder and the hand brake will be like rock, use a smaller cylinder and you'll be able to apply more force. The easiest way for me to explain it is: push some one with your hand, it won't hurt them, but poke them with your finger, they'll feel it more. f@$k hope that makes sense!! We have been using this setup since 1990 and it really does supply a good feel with little effort. I'll confirm exactly what size cylinders we use with Tony. Yip they are 5/8 cylinders we use!!! That cracked me up Scott, I see what you are saying, Mick told me it just gives him better pedal feel also, probably need that at 300k's tho :)
ke70dave Posted July 21, 2010 Report Posted July 21, 2010 (edited) damn looking good matty. whats the sr-5 badge? isnt that an ae86 thing? or hilux? Edited July 21, 2010 by ke70dave
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Posted July 21, 2010 damn looking good matty. whats the sr-5 badge? isnt that an ae86 thing? or hilux? I bought used badge sets from the US of A. Both sets are overrated. I guess they have SR-5 badging on Corollas over there, or sprinters maybe I can't remember. I'm sure a US member can clarify if they happen to read this.
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 21, 2010 Author Report Posted July 21, 2010 Wheel arches look good, nice job Mungi Mods. He an artist, what can I say. Arches are solid and strong feeling too, so I don't think we have compromised any structure. I'm considering my next purchase, either Rose jointed caster arms from TTT or upper 4 link arms that are adjustable, again from TTT. I'm not a fan of the angle the diff sits at and I want a crisper feeling wheel with a bit more feedback. Anyone have any opinion on what is more important, or should I just do both mods?
mungi mods Posted July 21, 2010 Report Posted July 21, 2010 do the adjustable 4 link in the rear, allows tuning of the rear end as for flares , its what i do.... I'm no egg-spurt but i try to do my best . secret is to do all flaring at the lowest suspension setting , i.e on the bumpstops as it means you should never have an issue
Silver Styler Posted July 22, 2010 Report Posted July 22, 2010 do the adjustable 4 link in the rear, allows tuning of the rear end as for flares , its what i do.... I'm no egg-spurt but i try to do my best . secret is to do all flaring at the lowest suspension setting , i.e on the bumpstops as it means you should never have an issue Do you think adjustable is really worth it? I have heard people say both adj and non adj are good. One of my mates is getting a few sets made up
NIZLAH Posted July 22, 2010 Report Posted July 22, 2010 you know you want to do both the tension rods and rear links Matt............
mungi mods Posted July 22, 2010 Report Posted July 22, 2010 adjustable allows for diff angle change which affects rear grip and alo allows for correction of wheelbase when lowering the car as they move in an arc, lower moves the bottom mount back and pulls the pinion down
Trev Posted July 24, 2010 Report Posted July 24, 2010 Good stuff Matt, I think your mate was a bit excited at the end of run 2 "oh 15.5" :yes: Sounds bloody tuff recorded on camera, in person it would be music to the ears.
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 24, 2010 Author Report Posted July 24, 2010 Good stuff Matt, I think your mate was a bit excited at the end of run 2 "oh 15.5" :yes: Sounds bloody tuff recorded on camera, in person it would be music to the ears. That was Brad. lolz.
Trev Posted July 24, 2010 Report Posted July 24, 2010 HAHA, forum name sez it all. That scooby doo race looked hell close, how much more are you expecting from it as surely it has more.
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