NIZLAH Posted February 2, 2010 Report Posted February 2, 2010 interesting............ it seems like that every time you need an alternative part, you find it on a camry of some form lol..
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Posted February 3, 2010 interesting............ it seems like that every time you need an alternative part, you find it on a camry of some form lol.. Camry stuff is cheapest and quite often the easiest to get, so it makes sense. I now have a heater tap from a widebody, as well as some extra hoses and bends, also a longer heater cable to operate the tap, and a few random sensors and a fuse box that will come in handy. I'm going to use a fixed tap style of idle control, set and forget is the plan, no wiring, no bs. Just a valve. My slave cylinder has been recoed and I got a new rubber hose manufactured to suit it. Exact same as the jdm line. Ive also taken the waterpump pulley into extreme custom engineering for a redrill and to be modified slightly to use a locating ring to centre it. Its costing $70 bucks but thats cheaper than a new waterpump and the time to swap the old one. It just means that I can use which-ever pump I like, 4afe, or 4age. Ironically to get a sample of the stud pattern on the pulley i went to the self serve wreckers and got a 4ac pulley. Its the same as the fe ones except for offset, and then I went and dropped off the pulleys and stopped by to see Brian my mechanic who was at work in Rocklea, just around the corner from the custom engineers. He had a 4afe in bits on the floor and has a spare pulley just sitting there, so i could have just gone past his shop and got what i needed on the way to the engineers. Bloody murphy is back again. Now Ill most likely spend the evening tinkering to try and connect the heater up, I need to come up with a second port to hook it back into the cooling system somewhere, but I can probably source an in line fitting from Speco or something like that.
NIZLAH Posted February 3, 2010 Report Posted February 3, 2010 $70 f@$k.... Whats this idle control you speak of? Its probably the thing I hate most about my set-up... wont be so bad though when I have a plenum as I know how I'm going going to mount it etc.. I think.
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Posted February 3, 2010 $70 f@$k.... Whats this idle control you speak of? Its probably the thing I hate most about my set-up... wont be so bad though when I have a plenum as I know how I'm going going to mount it etc.. I think. Just a valve to get the opening right on the pipe. Last time around I had the stock one sitting there and it defauits open when its disconnected, and it sucks a bit of air. A bit too much as it idles at 1600 revs. So I just need to be able to set the opening to make it idle where i want is all. I don't think I need a computer to do that, just a tap. Ive had a go at fitting the heater tap. Its gonna work.
NIZLAH Posted February 3, 2010 Report Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) cool, sounds simple and effective.. Not sure if Brad mentioned what we used on mine to ya.... (the ford 2 wire one) but still I'd prefer not to have it at all... I would really like to just calibrate it across each throttle with the adjustment screw on each. Edited February 3, 2010 by NIZLAH
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Posted February 3, 2010 Well i got the heater tap in an awesome spot, down next to the brake bias valves, kinda under the throttles. The hoses are actually quite neat if you ask me the way they flow. I just need an inline adapter to connect the water back in from the heater. Its a widebody Camry tap and a cable from an ae82 4ac. The only thing was while I was playing around I realised I broke another heater core fitting the motor, and the other spare one I have I pressure tested and it leaked badly. So now I need a new heater core. I'm looking for one from a ke70, with one spout up and one down, I'm going to mod it so the one thats right behind the distributor plate is pointing up as well and the 2 outlets will end up staggered. This will mean the thing will not clash with anything, but it will make the heater core a bit harder to fit, but I'm confident it will wiggle in. The shifter is in, and the JDM style clutch is set up with a reco slave and new rubber line. My clutch master cylinder was new not long ago. Its basically a new system. I just need to bleed it to get a pedal and thats it for the clutch system. The caster/swaybar mounts are in and feshly painted in flat black, also. I tossed in the 4-2-1s and they fit great, exactly as I had hoped for, Ive heard some headers for ae86 can foul on the firewall but these are absolutely perfect, they miss everything and don't stick down very far under the car at all. Ive connected up the brake booster vaccuum hose, and thats about it for today. So if you are in Brisbane and have an early style ke70 heater core, hook me up please, haha. ;)
fusion Posted February 3, 2010 Report Posted February 3, 2010 You will most liekly find one easily in Brisbane, but if you need a heater core I think I got one here lying around doing not much. ;) Can easily post it up to you after all the times you've helped me out Cheers Fusion
ca18ae71 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Posted February 4, 2010 i think i have a couple here matty unsure on there condition though
ke70dave Posted February 4, 2010 Report Posted February 4, 2010 sounds like you are having a bit of fun with this matty, good to see it coming together!! just a quick Q: what you mean by "jdm style clutch"?? The shifter is in, and the JDM style clutch is set up with a reco slave and new rubber line. My clutch master cylinder was new not long ago. Its basically a new system. I just need to bleed it to get a pedal and thats it for the clutch system. brand new clutch systems rock my socks (especially when i'm driving and not wearing shoes...hehe) when i put my 4age in i had brand new everything clutch related, was quite epic.
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 4, 2010 Author Report Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) sounds like you are having a bit of fun with this matty, good to see it coming together!! just a quick Q: what you mean by "jdm style clutch"?? brand new clutch systems rock my socks (especially when i'm driving and not wearing shoes...hehe) when i put my 4age in i had brand new everything clutch related, was quite epic. By jdm stlye clutch I mean i used a jap t50 bellhousing on an aussie t50. i say this just to indicate which side the slave is on. Its bled and I must say, its light as a feather. So thats one pedal down, 2 to go, haha. Need swap a diff asap. Mungi mods is coming over tonight with a few parts that I gave him a while back from my other 71 that he didnt use. Caster arms, and the swaybar. My current set of caster arms are for some reason featuring weld on the threads that limit adjustment. Me thinks this car has been tugged back to straight before. hehe. I'm not investing in new bushes for the caster arms, as in the not too distant future they will be replaced with TTT rose jointed items. I'm going to fit the stock swaybar for now also as the whiteline adjustable I have fouls on my brakes, its a shocker. Be great for someone with normal size rotors and calipers. I need to get new tie rod ends, as one of mine is rooted. So once those 2 items are fitted, I just have to drop it down and swap the diff and tank, and once my gasket arrives from Melbourne I can swap quads and get it running and tuned. Need to do a dodgy exhaust so i can drive it to get a better one. I'm sure Terry will be up for that, Ive got a cat here in a section of 2 1/4 pipe that we can play with. Only need to fill about 3 feet between the stock rear overdiff exhaust and the headers for now. Oh and for all the people who said it wasnt possible, I fitted a rubber gearshift boot from an ae86 to my ae71. All it takes is a slight stretch to the rubber. Ive doubled up the ae71 boot and the ae86 boot to try and keep noise down. Edited February 4, 2010 by LittleRedSpirit
beerhead Posted February 4, 2010 Report Posted February 4, 2010 I did think about a tap style Idle control on your rig Niz, but the reason behind the idle controller is to idle up when the motor is cold, and then drop the revs off a touch as it comes to temp. You can just wind out the throttles. but it has to be done with the aid of one of these Throttle sync tools or the motor will not be too happy. I was thinking the other day, a 20V really doesn't have that bigger duration cams stock, and VVT function means the cam should be in lower down power areas of overlap... so the erratic idle at low rpm on a 20V is possibly due to poor synchronisation of the throttles. When the throttles are open the variance in flow as a percentage of the total air going into the motor wouldn't be as much and it'd rev through clean. The only other think I could think of is that the high idle could be because of 3 intake valves creating erratic vacuum at low rpm. Coming along awesome Mate, can't wait to see it on the road.
NIZLAH Posted February 4, 2010 Report Posted February 4, 2010 Yeah cheers Brad... I think I can live with it as I have a way of making it a lot less obvious, just need a plenum and I should be good.... if I get too disgruntled then I may try and tune each throttle... I've been getting back into mine also now, swapped the spark plugs and as we guessed the ones in there were f@$kin filthy, started and idles alot nicer after that. Just waiting on my lift pump to arrive and then I can put the new fuel pump in and surge tank. Hopefully that erase's that miss/cutting out issue I was having.. Anyways, back on to Matt's ride//
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 4, 2010 Author Report Posted February 4, 2010 Yeah cheers Brad... I think I can live with it as I have a way of making it a lot less obvious, just need a plenum and I should be good.... if I get too disgruntled then I may try and tune each throttle... I've been getting back into mine also now, swapped the spark plugs and as we guessed the ones in there were f@$kin filthy, started and idles alot nicer after that. Just waiting on my lift pump to arrive and then I can put the new fuel pump in and surge tank. Hopefully that erase's that miss/cutting out issue I was having.. Anyways, back on to Matt's ride// Haha, having a nice chat eh. I got the tie rod end I needed. I now have a complete steering system installed. The rack is in good nick but will be swapped out as soon as the quaife is ready. Ive got some perfect rack ends to put in too, as I didnt have the spanners big enough to swap them at home. I just need some kind of way to adapt in a heater connection into the bottom radiator hose, and a new core of course. Ill have to make something I guess. I put the speedo cable in aswell as the jap tailshaft. Ready and waiting for the diff, and I will fill the gearbox with oil soon so I need the spline up its bum so it doesnt run out. So if terry brings over the suspension bits tonight I will be able to drop it down and swap the diff and tank on sunday, most likely. Have to got to work tomorrow for a change.
LittleRedSpirit Posted February 4, 2010 Author Report Posted February 4, 2010 Some pictures of the work.
Jesseb369 Posted February 6, 2010 Report Posted February 6, 2010 Yeahhh man. Keen to see more progress |blink| Looks frikken nice man.
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