SLW42 Posted March 28, 2010 Author Report Posted March 28, 2010 So this weekend has been pretty hecktik putting crossmember and coilovers into the pearl what a mission to put the ca crossmember into the car so i sat the crossmember up into the car and two bolts lined up perfectly and then out came the drill and elongated the holes in the crossmember to sit perfectly in the car so now it all sits in the car overrated, to make the coilovers sit in the car i used the silvia lca's and drilled another hole in the lca for the original ke castor rod and used the silvia sway bar mount for the original ke sway bar and sits alright but not preferable so i might have to make up a longer sway bar mount, so coz i'm using the silvia gear i now need to make up an adaptor for the ke steering colomn to the s13 steering rack the ke colomn is smaller than the silvia rack so now i need to some how fuse the two together to make the ke colomn end meet silvia rack start if that makes sense to anybody, i will upload pics tomorrow lads and ladets Quote
SLW42 Posted March 29, 2010 Author Report Posted March 29, 2010 here are some pictures of the finished product from my endevour this weekend gone  this is from the drivers side  this is passenger side  and here is the height of the car at the crossmember, and the height of the car now on the ground   ENJOY lads and ladets  don't be scared to post it's ok :D  Cheers Justin Quote
xmoht Posted March 30, 2010 Report Posted March 30, 2010 Don't mean to sound rude, but you removed the 4AGE because you damaged it severely. Did you just choose the Nissan engine because it was already RWD and you weren't confident about trying to convert another 4AGE? Quote
SLW42 Posted March 30, 2010 Author Report Posted March 30, 2010 No i didn't pull the 4age out because i damaged it mate, i haven't damaged the motor in anyway :P, i put it in the car then changed my mind and pulled it out to put a ca into the car for three reasons, one it's boosted, is easier to get power out of and more commonly found in RWD :) hope that clears it up bud Quote
TommyGun Posted March 30, 2010 Report Posted March 30, 2010 Car's looking sweet man, i'll have to come check it out some time. Quote
SLW42 Posted April 14, 2010 Author Report Posted April 14, 2010 Tommy if you wanna come have a look man send me a text and we'll organise a time. So today i started pulling apart the steering rack uni joints where the colomn joins rack, some how i have to figure out how to get the rolla uni to mate with the silvia uni, so once i figure it out i'll take some pics of it all in pieces and put it together and take some more pics. the drama is that the silvia bit where the colomn joins the rack is alot bigger than the rolla one is so yeah just sussing out little things to make life easier for the engine conversion to be finished Quote
SLW42 Posted April 17, 2010 Author Report Posted April 17, 2010 The pearl steers again and now has power steering, what a muck around it is to get a rolla to accept a silvia steering rack, i have decided if this car hits the street again ever with the ca in the car it's gettin the 4k crossmember put back into the car and rb20 engine mounts to make life so much easier for everyone. What i had to do was - Step 1. Pull apart both corolla and silvia uni joints. Step 2. Use one half of each uni joint to make corolla steering column fit onto silvia steering rack. Step 3. Re attach the uni's together so they join and work like they should ie, turn freely. Step 4. Remove steering column from car (which is alot easier than dropping suspension and crossmember once it's all attached believe me). Step 5. Get grinder ready to take 15 - 25 mm off the bottom of the steering column where the column goes into the uni joint (so as to make sure when you re-fit column into the car it wont hit the uni joint) PLEASE NOTE IN DOING THIS STEP THIS MAKES YOUR CAR UNSAFE FOR ROAD USE PLEASE DO NOT CUT DOWN STEERING COLUMN AND USE THE CAR ON THE STREET. Step 6. Re fit the steering column into the uni joint and into car (this is alot easier with two people there so one person can be in the car feeding the column through the car while the other is there making sure it's actually going into the uni joint). Step 7. Do up all your bolts and ensure everything is tight. IF YOU DO USE THIS METHOD PLEASE REMEMBER THAT IF YOU CUT YOUR STEERING COLUMN DOWN THE CAR IS NOW UNSAFE FOR ROAD USE, anyway when my computer makes life easy for me i'll post some pictures up for you guys to see what i mean cheers for reading. Justin Quote
Dropz Posted April 18, 2010 Report Posted April 18, 2010 which rb20 mounts allow the ca to bolt straight into the 4k crossmember? Quote
SLW42 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Posted April 18, 2010 I'd say more than likely stock ones there is an thread on here that has a big argument on it all man have a look in engine conversions or technical builds Quote
Dropz Posted April 18, 2010 Report Posted April 18, 2010 nah what i meant was like r31, r32 etc etc mounts as they are different. Â but yeah ill search it up. cheers. Quote
SLW42 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Posted April 18, 2010 I'd say more than likely r32 more commonly found maybe mate i'm unsure all i know is it fits into the k series crossmember on rb20 engine mounts Quote
SLW42 Posted May 30, 2010 Author Report Posted May 30, 2010 So it's been awhile since i posted any progress on this piece of toyota goodness :blinks: i've been trying to sort out paint for the car, trying to pull the ten layers of crap bunnings paint off this car to get back to the original gold so i can paint it all black again, I'M CHASING AE71 FRONT DOORS if anybody has a pair let me know it would be appreciated greatly, or i can swap ke front doors for ae doors and a little cash, i've organised a full ca engine turbo box harness computer and what not, just gotta get a job to pay for it all lol haha, Quote
SLW42 Posted June 26, 2010 Author Report Posted June 26, 2010 well it's been awhile since i've had some cash to do anything, but now i've started working again i've aquired another piece of my engine conversion :blinks: Â I was trawling boostloosing on thursday and found a turbo ca motor (minus inlet manifold and everything intake, cas and powersteering pump :blinks: the turbo i already had ) for 200 ONO, so i offered 150 picked up and brought it home today, along with afew wee extras like alternator, starter motor, 8 coilpacks, stock turbo mani, and factory dump pipe for t25/t28's but that will be deleted once i start chasing power in the car. Â once i've found the bits i'm missing off the motor i'll be stripping the motor down and putting a vrs kit through it, like all gaskets and MAYBE a thicker head gasket as a wank factor thing, either that or just a really good one to hold 12 pounds of boost reliably :lol: , so that when it's on the street it is still got poke but not stupid amounts of boost so that it breaks the motor, i know it needs rings and stem seals (the guy i bought it off said it is a little somkey at times), but they can wait till it gets bad or if the motor breaks, by then and will be coping a forged bottom end if it does eventually break, Â Either way it has a heart but not a running heart haha :blinks: Â here is a pic of it nothing fancy just a turbo ca but just to show some progress I GOT BOOST NOW HAHAHA :blinks: Quote
redae71 Posted June 27, 2010 Report Posted June 27, 2010 nice buy man, il tell ya now don't put a thicker head gasket on, one you don't need it and two it makes the car a pig to drive off boost and laggy as f@$k my mate that i bought all my conversion stuff off had either a 1.8 or 2mm head gasket in it and it was craptacular when i drove his, stick to a stocko one! mine has a std one in it and its wicked, make sure you get the head skimmed and clean the block up with a gasket grinder as best as possible. Quote
SLW42 Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Posted June 27, 2010 Yeah cheers man it was only the motor and those extra bits i got for 150, i'm still missing alot of things though, i had a turbo for it already, well that makes life alot easier knowing that thicker headgaskets make it gay off boost, yeah it's not going into the car till it's had a full service done, all gaskets and oil filter, you by the off chance wouldn't have a set of stock ca steel engine mounts would you bud? Oh i will have a couple more questions here and there along the build for you too bud, so far the ca conversion has cost me - 150 for crossmember and steering rack, lca's, 150 for coilovers and hubs/brakes, 150 for the engine and little bits, and 100 bucks for the stock manual harness so i think it's going alright for a cheapish build, :lol: i can see the actuall wiring, fuel system and tuning being the most expensive part about it though oh and the blue plate/plates for roady but i think it's going alright so far Quote
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