ke70dave Posted September 13, 2009 Report Posted September 13, 2009 And a very very important tip when installing a bearing never push on the inner race always use the outer race. Or the bearing will be dead as soon as it is installed if you push it in using the inner race. I made an installation tool from a bit of brass machined to size it contacted the outer race and then a hammer tapped it into the crank. yeah good point you can just use a socket to hit the outer race in as well. just have to have a few nice big ones to get the right size. Quote
snot35 Posted September 13, 2009 Report Posted September 13, 2009 I used an angle grinder to grind down the head of a suitably sized long bolt into a J shaped hook. I then put an old flywheel over the other end with the tip of the J pointing up so that any weight on the bolt would make sure the hook was engaged. Put on nut and you have an instant slide hammer/bearing puller. Only took one pop, perfect! Grease just sounded too messy to me :no2: Quote
Taz_Rx Posted September 14, 2009 Report Posted September 14, 2009 :no2: yes the grease method is agricultural,...... but you might be supprised just how many professional workshops use it. Wet news paper/paper towel etc also works pretty well if you don't have any grease. And for anybody who has a dead K40 or K50 laying around - Pull the input spline out of it to use as a clutch locating tool. this is also (obviously) the perfecty diametre for compressing the grease. :y: Quote
rob83ke70 Posted September 26, 2009 Report Posted September 26, 2009 I'm adding my support for the grease method. find a piece of steel the right diameter (an offcut or something) or a socket extension bar. have to pack grease in tight and hit it, then repack and repeat process about 5 or 6 times, works a treat. I've used it countless times at work. I've also used the tool and I didn't like it as much as the grease. I had to pull a strange looking spigot out of an XG ute not too long ago, and the bearing puller took the inner part of the bearing out then I used the grease trick to get the outer part of the bearing out. If I lived near you I would come up and show you.... hell, if the motorcycle had a tyre on it I'd make a special trip up to show you (any excuse for a ride and to meet a fellow car enthusiast is worth it) Robert. Quote
bluterus Posted June 29, 2010 Report Posted June 29, 2010 I know this is an old thread but thought I'd would list the easiest and cheapest way to do this. Things needed: 8mm Socket to Suit 1/4" Drive Short 1/4" Extension 1/4" Wratchet or one of them screwdrivers with magnetic bits. 2 A4 pieces of paper Water What to do Soak the two pieces of paper with water Rip small pieces of paper up and shove them inside the bearing. Will probably get a whole sheet in. Once its full hit it in with the socket on the extension till the socket end is even with the bearing then put the wratchet on and twist and pull it out. Pack more paper in till it is full and hit again. Repeat till it comes out. Thanks goes to a guy on youtube I found this on there and it works easy as took like 5 mins. Pilot bearing removal Quote
Felix Posted June 29, 2010 Report Posted June 29, 2010 I like that paper method. :wink: I've used the grease method quite a few times, but the wet paper would be so much less messy and easier to clean up. Quote
Taz_Rx Posted June 29, 2010 Report Posted June 29, 2010 I like that paper method. :wink: I've used the grease method quite a few times, but the wet paper would be so much less messy and easier to clean up. Amazing what a little water under pressure can do hey! :laff: That should be enough motivation for people to double check their head stud holes for water before re-assembling after a BHG. ;) I also use wet paper, but sometimes with a little grease just to seal things up a bit more. You can see what squirt out when he hits it with a hammer - the grease will seal and stop this so its even more efficient. Quote
bluterus Posted June 29, 2010 Report Posted June 29, 2010 Amazing what a little water under pressure can do hey! :wink: That should be enough motivation for people to double check their head stud holes for water before re-assembling after a BHG. :laff: I also use wet paper, but sometimes with a little grease just to seal things up a bit more. You can see what squirt out when he hits it with a hammer - the grease will seal and stop this so its even more efficient. Yeah I was amazed I tried it and was like wow took me like 5 mins and saved me $50 on a tool I won't use much. Quote
MRMOPARMAN Posted June 30, 2010 Report Posted June 30, 2010 i can't believe no ones mentioned using a slide hammer yet. if your gonna buy a tool, ya may aswell buy one that serves more than 1 purpose! i also use the grease trick. it will only work if you get a nice tightish seal on the inner race. if grease spews out, its too loose, if you can't get the tool your hitting out of the spiggot, the seal was too tight! Quote
bluterus Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 i can't believe no ones mentioned using a slide hammer yet. if your gonna buy a tool, ya may aswell buy one that serves more than 1 purpose! i also use the grease trick. it will only work if you get a nice tightish seal on the inner race. if grease spews out, its too loose, if you can't get the tool your hitting out of the spiggot, the seal was too tight! Never even thought of one. I have soo many different ones made up. Cause I work in steel fab I just make them out of pieces of rod and pipes. Quote
SLW42 Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 I've always just done it with a bolt around the same size as the hole in the middle of the bearing and grabbed a hammer and hit it out sideways then moved around to the other side and repeted the process Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 My mechanic has a little slide hammer thing with a tiny steel hook on the end. Took about 3 well placed taps and it was out. Quote
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