lowtoy Posted September 11, 2009 Report Posted September 11, 2009 hey guys i just got a new spigot bearing, wanting to know how to get the old one out? is there a special tool to use?? any help will be muchly appreciated thanks.. Quote
ke70dave Posted September 11, 2009 Report Posted September 11, 2009 hey champ yeah mate its called a "pilot bearing puller" around $50 or so. you wont get it out without one! Quote
Raven Posted September 11, 2009 Report Posted September 11, 2009 I beg to differ :jamie: Pack grease in behind the spigot bearing. (grease doesnt compress). Find a suitable bolt that will create a tight seal, place it in the centre hole of the bearing and lightly tap the bolt with a hammer and presto, out it should come. Failing that, get the bearing puller. Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted September 11, 2009 Report Posted September 11, 2009 I beg to differ :jamie: Pack grease in behind the spigot bearing. (grease doesnt compress). Find a suitable bolt that will create a tight seal, place it in the centre hole of the bearing and lightly tap the bolt with a hammer and presto, out it should come. Failing that, get the bearing puller. +1, pack it with grease, also i found a socket extension piece fitted fine, couple of taps, pack more grease in, more taps, easy as Dan Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted September 11, 2009 Report Posted September 11, 2009 I don't use a puller. I get them out the grease and bolt method (well I use an old 4 speed input shaft LOL also good clutch aligning tool after replacing the bearing). But I had just an outer race once stuck in a crank I got a grinder and carefully cut a slot small tap and pin split in 2 and fell out. So id do greese and bolt or grind CAREFULLY. Also with bolt/shaft and grease method hit it really hard they can be in there quite tight. Cheers Cameron Quote
Felix Posted September 11, 2009 Report Posted September 11, 2009 Also with bolt/shaft and grease method hit it really hard they can be in there quite tight. Definitely. I'd advise holding your bolt/whatever with multigrips or something if you use this method. I learnt the hard way, once smashing my thumb open with a 1kg hammer while driving out a spigot bearing. Quote
TRD ke70 Posted September 11, 2009 Report Posted September 11, 2009 smash the middle out of the bearing and then weld around the inside of the rest, the weld contracts as it cools and the bearing will come out easy. only works if you have a welder and are any good at welding, or you could end up welding the bearing to the crank. :jamie: Quote
lowtoy Posted September 12, 2009 Author Report Posted September 12, 2009 hey champ yeah mate its called a "pilot bearing puller" around $50 or so. you wont get it out without one! hey guys thanks for the replys, ive tried the grease trick unfortunatly it didnt work for me, is there anyone up on the northside brissy that knows where to get the tool from or has anyone got one i can borow?? need it asap.. wanting to put the new engine in today... thanks Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 you have to keep packing the grease behind it, then put soemthing in the hole and tap 2-3 times, pack more grease, and keep repeating. WD40 around the edge will help too. Dodgy way is to pack it with mud, its thicker then grease, and free :jamie:.. if your replacing the bearing anyway it wont matter. Quote
ke70dave Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 the greese method sounds rather......agricultural... but if it works, it works. i remember spending a few hours trying to get one out of an s13. they are a little different to 4age ones (and ive not seen a 4k one). more of a bush than a bearing. looked like a small peice of copper piping. We tried everything. got fed up. bought the tool. came out in like 10secs. Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 the greese method sounds rather......agricultural... but if it works, it works. It is :jamie: But there is space behind the bearing, so the more you pack the grease in, the more it builds up. and it has to go somewhere, so it forces the bearing out. which is why you need something the same diameter as the bearing inside so you can compress the grease :hmm: Quote
philbey Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 Added to the FAQ Great tip. I've never had too much trouble, last one I did I just left the old one in. Quote
lowtoy Posted September 13, 2009 Author Report Posted September 13, 2009 you have to keep packing the grease behind it, then put soemthing in the hole and tap 2-3 times, pack more grease, and keep repeating. WD40 around the edge will help too. Dodgy way is to pack it with mud, its thicker then grease, and free :no2:.. if your replacing the bearing anyway it wont matter. ive just spent ages out in the shed trying the grease trick, not going to happen.. the seal on the bearing isnt there so the grease just comes out there!! I'm just going to go buy the tool, its $100 but i need to get it out and grease isnt working.. thanks for all your help though guys! Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted September 13, 2009 Report Posted September 13, 2009 yeah thats why i used mud on one before, caked it in WD40, and cause mud isnt as thin as grease, it takes greater force to push through the seal :no2:.. dodgy i know, but hey. it worked Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted September 13, 2009 Report Posted September 13, 2009 Hi, If your seal is gone and grease wont stay in just grind it like I said above. Diamond bit int he die grinder ate through my bearing in a second or two and it just pooped out then :no2: Also should point out I did run a 5K in my KE30 with a KE70 gear box with no spigot bearing for about 6months. Never had an issue and ran and changed gear fine. But I know other cars that would go up gear till 3rd fine with a dead spigot bearing then get jammed in 3rd till you were at a dead stop was weird. So how bad is the old one? could you leave it there? And a very very important tip when installing a bearing never push on the inner race always use the outer race. Or the bearing will be dead as soon as it is installed if you push it in using the inner race. I made an installation tool from a bit of brass machined to size it contacted the outer race and then a hammer tapped it into the crank. Cheers Cameron Quote
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