Using Led Bulbs For Indicators

[demuire]

Got a bit tired of bulbs blowing, and went and got myself those cool LED bulbs for indicators. They look cool and all that, but... they don't quite work properly. I think it's cause they don't offer as much resistance (or maybe they don't draw as much power) as normal bulbs, but with them in, the indicator flasher doesn't flash...

 

Is there any way to get around this?

[demuire]

Well, the bulbs don't blow *all* the time. Just random ones here and there. I think since I've gotten the car on the road I've replaced... 3 bulbs? All different ones. I think one indicator, and 2 of the front park lights. All of them were originally in the shell when I bought it, so who knows how old they are...

 

No, flasher doesn't flash at all.

[Super Jamie]

i never replaced any bulbs in that car, except a couple in the dash which i just got out of a spare dash cluster of similar age, so maybe they just are old

 

to use LED flashers you need a different flasher unit, i've tried LED bulbs in my car too and they click once and stay on. someone told me which one to use once (something about honda civic) but i've forgotten

 

nick at joyride autocare in alstonville was the one who told me, i think the business is still going, 02 6628 6468

[demuire]

Ah, so there's such a device called an LED flasher... :) Hmm, that entails rewiring, it's right on the edge of the "too hard basket" :)

[Banjo]

That's interesting Fook, as I am just about to do a complete lighting upgrade on my KE55 coupe, and was going to use the LED bulbs. I think they're about $ 9.00 is Super AutoCheap.

 

The problem with the flasher and LED bulbs is that the flasher units are made to only work with the filament bulbs. LED bulbs draw much less current than the standard filament bulb, and therefore result in less voltage drop in wiring & connectors.

 

Unfortunately, the flasher unit is a bi-metal switch arrangement. The indicator is switched, current flows to the bulb, bi-metal switch heats up & distorts, switch opens, current stops flowing and bi-metal cools down. Switch closes again & cycle is repeated. The LED current is not great enough to heat the bi-metal strip, so the flasher unit will not work.

 

I assume, Fook, your indicator LED light is permanently on.

 

There must be a simple solution. I'll see what I can discover.

 

On the same topic, amber & red coloured bulbs are great when faded lamp lenses are faded or new ones hard or expensive to get hold.

 

I've tried that special stuff you paint on the inside of the lenses, but in the Qld sun, it is only effective for about 6 months.

 

:)

[demuire]

Yes, it stays on.

 

I've just been told that there is such a device called an "electronic flasher unit", which is different to the one that came in my car in 1975... This is what I need.

[styler]

regarding the normal flasher units, they often stick, ie don't flash on and off just flash on and stay on,. in the early toyotas the units can be fixed, its the contact points of the flasher that become pitted and worn so the contacts are not the right distance apart. this can be fixed as best as possible by filing the mounded point smooth and bending the arm a bit. thought of adding solder to the pitted contact too but havent as of yet.

[Starlet82]

how do they look on an old car? do they look good? will these go into the stock bulb sockets?

 

Hmmm.... I hope these things are available here.

 

do you have any pictures? pls try to post some if you have.

Edited June 7, 2005 by Starlet82

[demuire]

They just replace your old bulbs. So they don't look any different, except when you turn them on and off, they don't glow on and off, they come straight on and off.

 

Oh, and you can get them in different colors. But why you'd do this unless you had clear lenses, I have no idea. I've got amber ones for the indicators, and blue ones (couldn't find white) for the park lights. I am riceboy :)

Edited June 7, 2005 by demuire

[Starlet82]

do they have double contact ones as well? the ones for the break light and park light?

[demuire]

Erm, never seen these. I'm sure they would exist though, no reason why they wouldn't. I think I have the kit to make them actually, but I'm too lazy :)

[crazy_bunny]

it all comes down the resistance... leds are around 20mw for a 6000mcd... bulb will be say 5 watt... soo say u have 3 5watt bulbs per side.. 15 watts, so in other words u would need 250 leds per unit to get it to work the same....

 

really depends on how many bulbs u replace and to what there wattage is....

[demuire]

I've just replaced 2 (one on each side) and that was enough to stop the blinkers working!

[dysolve]

ok here we go..... you can buy an led flasher unit in kit form from dick smith or jaycar, easy to assamble and all you will need to do is replace your flasher "can" with the led flasher unit, but if you want a cheats way of doing it...get the normal flasher unit to "flash" a relay which in turn controls the led's, or another way of doing it is use resisters to load the normal flasher unit... or you can buy leds with in built flasher units, I have not tried to resister or relay method because i already had the kit made up. I have just bought a spare dash for my ke20 and i am going to change it all to leds, i will send some pix when i am done, it will take me about a month to make up the control module alone as differnent lights behind the dash need different currents, but once it's done i will post the wiring diagram. If you would like the jaycar part numbers i will look on a few web sites now for you, and i will look through a few catalogs at work tomorrow as well, i need part numbers for my self anyways

[Super Jamie]

you can get dual contact LED brake lights