Installing Hydraulic Hanbrake In Ke55

[towe001]

^ ^ Just take the button out of the hand brake, pull the spring out, use a door lock button from an old ford or holden etc (the type that uses a "T" shaped button) or mod up something so that when the handbrake is pulled up the button can be pulled out to hold the brake on (aka - spin turn knob/button)

But just like what Taz said - its something that can quite easily be overlooked by either the owner or borrower of the car.

 

And yes KE55PIG, i know you've said "Not for a road car" but its also for the one thinking of it for their road car....

Yeah thats right, you. You there scratching your chin thinking "Hmmm, interesting"

 

what is so bloody wrong about fitting a hydraulic handbrake??? can't be any more dangerous than a handbrake on the front wheels on my subaru!!!

 

as long as the pipe joins are done correctly, I can't see the problem.

 

I'm sure I will now be corrected as appropriate!

Another one is if one of the lines blows out or fluid is lost from the brakes, at least you have a cable handbrake for redundancy

[toyota_ae71]

yes coln72 is right, if you can't lock them and make it spin your not trying hard enough. But if your're constantly using it like i was then you have to keep on adjusting it... so i just modded the standard handbrake so it still had the rachet and everything for my hydraulic handbrake!! if you were smart you would keep the original handbrake cable operated, and just add a vertical one infront of it. Therefore when you wanna park it on a hill or on a trailer you can just pull the standard one on.

And by the way my master/slave cylinder is off a bently and only cost me $80 brand new off ebay.

[KE55PIG]

yes i can get it sideways with handbrake but the point is i want to be able to use it constanly with out having to buy handbrake cables constantly hydraulic is the way to go for me it will have both stock and aftermarket handbrake on it ! this is beingsetup strickly drift and motorkhana use

[coln72]

Motorkhana'd for years (REDWRF still lived in gods country when I started) and never replaced handbrake cables and I was competing a couple of times a month. Had to occasionally adjust the rear brakes but that was no biggy -couple of minutes with a screw driver. Hopefully you will be giving it a once over a couple of times a year anyway so you should have the wheels off it.

 

Used to unscrew the handbrake button and throw it in the glovebox for an event and refit it before hitting the trailer.

Edited August 19, 2009 by coln72

[SLO-030]

yes coln72 is right, if you can't lock them and make it spin your not trying hard enough. But if your're constantly using it like i was then you have to keep on adjusting it... so i just modded the standard handbrake so it still had the rachet and everything for my hydraulic handbrake!! if you were smart you would keep the original handbrake cable operated, and just add a vertical one infront of it. Therefore when you wanna park it on a hill or on a trailer you can just pull the standard one on.

And by the way my master/slave cylinder is off a bently and only cost me $80 brand new off ebay.

 

I just got a brand new PBR trailer brake master thru work. Best thing it only cost me $20 brand new :)

 

I reckon a hydro handbrake would be good if you wanna be able to lock up the rears real hard. but not have to yank the mechanical hand brake up just as hard. If you use a big enough master cylinder you should be able to lock them up real hard while not having to rip the handle off the floor.

[coln72]

Wish I still had my KE20 and I could show you how easily a standard handbrake, set up properly, will lock up the rears without yanking it up hard.

 

Suppose it all comes down to driving style and car set up as to how easy it is to get a car to slide. I found it easy to do without resorting to a hydrolic handbrake.

[mikey_m]

www.seemore.com.au - cheapest master I have seen around, and they alos make locally a few different handbrakes too. I have one of these in a lift style rather than pull.

 

www.revolutionracegear.com.au - sell a very nice one with latching mechanism, but they are $$$$

 

How to fit:

 

Once decided where to mount and that you are happy with it placement, tooks me a few goes and ended up removing the old cable brake all together because it just got in the way.

 

The Master is a remote resevoir device, has two holes an in and an out. Remove the brake line from Primary Master to the rear last connection, cut off the connector and then re-bend and bring upto the Secondary Master (Handbrake), re flare and connect to the in hole.

 

Bend and plumb a new hard line to replace the section between the out hold of secondary master and the rear of vehicle. These need you profficient with bending steel line and flaring. I had Zero difficulity with the local brake shop helping and inspecting once I had completed it.

 

Once fitted the its time for bleeding, this is a bit tricky and takes a bit longer than normal. Follow the normal bleed the longest first (Remember to bleed the whole lot) Bleeding the front brakes is no different to normal and I will not cover it here.

 

Procedure to bleed:

Get fluid moving by pressing the master with rear nipple locked, this will takes a few goes here so be patient. Bring up a bit of pressure and release nipple and push foot to the floor. Then lift the handbrake, next lock off and repeat, however do not let the secondary master return with your own force, allow the pressure of the lines to bring it down byitself, this will make the process faster.

 

Repeat this until; you have no more bubbles and the handbrake pulls itself down forcefully. Bleed all remaining lines and viola.

 

Hope this helps you out. Note the instructions with the remote resevior master will have this procedure more clearly documented.