KE26 Wagon Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 I always clean the block with some metho on a rap to get any oil off it and fit the head with some copper spray as per Taz Quote
Felix Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 I run a bit of permatex No3 around the pushrod side of the gasket. It is common to see k series weep a bit of oil around the headgasket in that area. Like Taz I use one of those razor scraper things to remove residual head gasket. Compressed air, and a good wipe over with thinners or shellite for the final clean before reassembly. When the head is back on, I like to remove the thermostat and flush the block with water and compressed air to get rid of any left over crap that could have fallen into the water galleries... stops the shit from potentially clogging your radiator. Quote
anastasios Posted October 19, 2009 Author Report Posted October 19, 2009 nope its not a genuine, i think i might go get some of that copper spray stuff, anyone know what its called? Quote
altezzaclub Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 Put a stocking over the end of the top rad hose and it will filter the shit out before it clogs the radiator cores. The crap getting down into the sump is a bigger worry. Quote
anastasios Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 (edited) ok so i was putting my head together and i noticed these two random bolt holes on either side of the middle head bolt, i have had a look on the other 4 heads laying around the garage, but they do not have these holes, anyone know what they are for and how i should block them? Edited October 20, 2009 by anastasios Quote
Taz_Rx Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 Its a 5k head yeah? Has lugs? Some late 5k's had a weird exhaust recirluation system on them which had a fuel rail looking thing running across the corner of the head. It has a fitting that plugs into each exhasut port - Notice in your picture theres one over ex port number 4 as well. However number one is already blocked with a bolt, maybe try doing this to all of them. Are the other holes threaded? Don't quote me but I think these heads where also on 5k's with the O-dish pistons factory. :) Quote
anastasios Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 yea I'm pretty sure it is a 5k head, but it doesnt have the lugs, yea i didnt notice the hole over the exhaust port, hmm i can't remember if these were blocked off before i took the head to the engine shop, ah well ill have to find something... Quote
anastasios Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 ok so i just took out that bolt, and it looks weird, if i use a normal bolt that size, will i have problems with exhaust flow as it will have an area to go up into? should i get these holes welded up? or will bolts do the job just the same? i don't think i will be able to find these exact bolts either, unless toyota have them? Quote
Taz_Rx Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 See if you can get them through toyota. If you can't find them listed for a Liteace, maybe get them to check (if they can) for a 5k forklift listing. As for using normal bolts and possible turnulance in the port from left over hole, yeah it could cause some. Go stick your finger up the ex port of another 3k/4k head cause I think they have an internal casting that head towards were these "bolts" are. Think we ported and smoothed them out a bit on my 3kbp head. What I'm getting at is if all other K motors still have a dip in the ex ports for these bits (which doesn't seem to be that much of a problem) them you might be right just blocking them with normal bolts. FYI - If you go to a brasswear shop they might be able to make you some custom made bolts to look like that one pictured on a lathe. I had to get an custom made adapter to put my Wolf 3d water temp sensor into the stock K thermostat housing. Quote
philbey Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 You'll probably not notice any huge power issues from a plugged hole. As for cleaning the block, go get a can of the Gasket remover, that shit is amazing. BUT, mask up the top of your nicely painted block because it'll take paint off no worries. Seriously, spray it on, wait 15 minutes and all the crap basically wipes off with a rag! Quote
anastasios Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 so i went to a machinist today, to see if they could make up that bolt, they said something like 80 bucks a bolt...i felt inside one of the 4k heads and they have a little dimple, I'm not sure how deep it is, maybe i should just get a bolt without the chamfer and shaft bit on the end, and use that on all four? or do you think it needs that to seal properly and if i do use a standard bolt this small chamber area could be an issue? what a pain in the ass Quote
Felix Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 I've got a 3k head like that with air injection into the exhaust ports. Quote
anastasios Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Posted October 20, 2009 what i don't understand is how the air injection works? if they are closed bolts? any idea felix? maybe its a 3k head? what number is stamped on it? Quote
Felix Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 They run an air pump, and force air into the exhaust ports. Not exactly sure how it works, but supposedly improves emissions. I've seen pics of that type of setup on american ke10's so it has been around a while. Think it might be the (proper) california emissions spec. Couldn't tell you what the number is on the head I have. It is with a stash of parts at my parents joint. Quote
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