Ke70 5K Build

[anastasios]

Hm I can't check the torque wrench, but it should be ok, its a Kincrome one, I didn't grease the headbolts either

[tojo2]

Did you measure cc of head / pistons ?

[anastasios]

No, when I took the head to get machined the guy asked me what pistons I was using and if they were flush, and then shaved the head to suit.

[anastasios]

Now that I have a flange on the end of the extractors I will be able to put them on properly and I will buy a EM30 1 piece. Also Toyota told me that they will have to order the head gasket from Japan as they have no more in stock...which sucks.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 2, 2009 by anastasios

[philbey]

Holy shit - that is a new gasket? How many km's did that do? 5?

 

I'm thinking you just didn't get the gasket properly torqued downfor that sort of damage (that's burnt!) between 2-3.

 

Question: did you follow the correct sequence? Torquing in the correct order begins with the centre two headbolts, if you started at the ends may result in this failure.

 

You have to grease your headbolts - torque values will be way out without lubricant (by about 75% or something). Loctite Nevaseize is the go. MAKE SURE YOU GREASE UNDER THE BOLT HEADS, they also create a lot of friction. You don't need much grease, just thinly smear a few threads worth.

 

Secondly, checking your torque wrench is easy- Get a juice bottle with a handle, put a litre of water in it.

 

1L water = 1kg.

 

1kg x 9.81 = 9.81 Newtons. Close enough to 10 Newtons. So if you get a 2L bottle that'll be ~20N.

 

Set your wrench to 10Nm and hang your bottle of water half a metre out from the end. If it "clicks" at that point, consider it calibrated. If you are anal retentive, you should probably work out the mass of the wrench and adjust the water level accordingly.

 

My torque wrench is a bit old and shitty and the scale is a bit out - I use a 50lb spring balance I bought from a Fishing store to set my torque values!

Edited December 2, 2009 by philbey

[anastasios]

Yes it was a brand new gasket, I did follow the correct sequence, but I guess because I didn't grease the bolts it was out, and I will check my wrench.

 

Should I send the head to get resurfaced again? Or will this up the compression more?

[philbey]

Stick a straightedge across the head first, diagonally each way too. A Good steel rule. See if you can poke a feeler gauge in there to get some idea what it's like.

 

If you've not heated it up significantly, I'd hazard a guess it's probably alright.

 

More than likely your torque wrench is fine, I'm just a tad paranoid.

 

I can't remember the rhetoric, but i reckon that ungreased bolts, up to 75% of your torque can be lost in friction - which should account for this issue. Especially on a crusty old block where the threads aren't as nice as they once were, 20 years ago.

[altezzaclub]

.... and your manifold problem is clearly visible!!

 

Are you going to throw the extractors away or try and get them machined flat?

 

The Toyota design of manifold fixing is just a complete FAIL compared to Nissan in that area... :D

[anastasios]

I want to try and not throw them away atm, and see if they can be repaired. I wouldn't mind taking a look at what designs the others use.

[tojo2]

  philbey said:

Secondly, checking your torque wrench is easy- Get a juice bottle with a handle, put a litre of water in it.

 

1L water = 1kg.

 

1kg x 9.81 = 9.81 Newtons. Close enough to 10 Newtons.

 

Set your wrench to 20Nm and hang your bottle of water half a metre out from the end. If it "clicks" at that point, consider it calibrated. If you are anal retentive, you should probably work out the mass of the wrench and adjust the water level accordingly.

 

My torque wrench is a bit old and shitty and the scale is a bit out - I use a 50lb spring balance I bought from a Fishing store to set my torque values!

 

yep, 1kg x 1meter is about 10nm, but to get 20nm you`ll need a 2meter arm if youre using 1kg :D

[altezzaclub]

So if you vice them and heat parts up red-hot you will be able to take some of the curve out of the bar running from front to back.

 

Then I suppose they will need machining flat, and the ears of both manifolds adjusted to the same thickness. My Datsun extractors were so different in thickness I welded half-washers onto washers to make up the difference.

[anastasios]

Hm I couldn't find the loctite nevaseize, there was a product called anti seize though, and it is in a long tube, is this the correct one? Is that applied to the threads of the headbolts with grease on top?

[philbey]

  tojo2 said:

yep, 1kg x 1meter is about 10nm, but to get 20nm you`ll need a 2meter arm if youre using 1kg :D

 

whoops - that's what happens when you change you mind halfway through typing a post. When I typed it up I thought hmm- 5Nm do most torque wrenches even go that low (for 10N at 0.5m) so I changed it.

 

Anyway - get a 2L juice bottle, at 0.5m along, with it set to 10Nm. That'll do. (changed the old post)

Edited December 2, 2009 by philbey

[anastasios]

Haha sweet as, so I was having a look more closely at the extractors today as I am now able to remove them as I got that flange on the end, they were hard up against the heat shield on the engine mount, so I took the heat shield off and now it the 1st cylinder exhaust is hitting on the actual metal part of the mount, would this have caused the head to move as I tightened the exhaust manifold on as it would be pulling against the head?

 

Should I get that 1st tube modified to not hit?

 

Also it comes dangerously close to the starter motor wiring and stuff, should something be done about that?

 

 

Edited December 2, 2009 by anastasios

[philbey]

If your head was torqued up correctly before you put the extractors on, it's unlikely that the manifold pulling against it would have pulled the head across. I doubt that's the issue.

 

I'd suggest you modify something to get that number 1 runner clear of the engine mount.

 

Starter should be fine just make sure all your wires are restrained so they don't contact the headers. Starters are always close to the headers, later model units came with a bolt to fit a little heat shield.