Evan G Posted July 26, 2009 Report Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) hi there i seam to have a low pedal on ke55 (10cm before the brakes kick in , 15cm before you come to a compete stop) Front pads have 6mm of pads left, about the same on the drums front brake lines have been replaced, wheel cylinders arent leaking i gave the brakes a gooooood bleed and used dot 4 instead of 3 suggestions? how low is the pedal in your ke55? thanks Evan Edited July 26, 2009 by Evan G Quote
sammo[RL] Posted July 26, 2009 Report Posted July 26, 2009 My bro's ke55 has the same thing! I reackon the master cylinder needs to be resleeved.... Quote
Evan G Posted July 26, 2009 Author Report Posted July 26, 2009 My bro's ke55 has the same thing! I reackon the master cylinder needs to be resleeved.... i was quoted 300 for a new one? :y: Quote
corollaart Posted July 26, 2009 Report Posted July 26, 2009 300 ,I think old cock is having a lend of you :y: .Best shop around Id suggest. Quote
rob83ke70 Posted July 26, 2009 Report Posted July 26, 2009 thats not too bad of a price. is the pedal spongy or just low? I'd look at adjusting the rear brakes or the pushrod (at the pedal) if it is just low. if it is spongy I'd buy a new mc or get it resleeved (probably cheaper) Robert. Quote
Evan G Posted July 26, 2009 Author Report Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) thats not too bad of a price. is the pedal spongy or just low? I'd look at adjusting the rear brakes or the pushrod (at the pedal) if it is just low. if it is spongy I'd buy a new mc or get it resleeved (probably cheaper) Robert. its low, i have adjusted the park brake (the only adjustment on the drums 80% sure) there isnt an adjustment on the pushrod, the thing is engine off the pedal feels normal, but when the engine is on and its vacuumed assisted the pedal just sinks? cheers rob Edited July 26, 2009 by Evan G Quote
Redwarf Posted July 26, 2009 Report Posted July 26, 2009 There's also adjusters on the rear drums. If you pull the drum off, the adjuster sits between the two shoes just under the wheel cylinders. adjust it up so that you can only just get the drum back on. If you haven't already done that, it should raise the pedal a bit. Quote
Evan G Posted July 26, 2009 Author Report Posted July 26, 2009 There's also adjusters on the rear drums. If you pull the drum off, the adjuster sits between the two shoes just under the wheel cylinders. adjust it up so that you can only just get the drum back on. If you haven't already done that, it should raise the pedal a bit. thats for the hand brake yes? ill adjust them again tomorrow after work Quote
rob83ke70 Posted July 26, 2009 Report Posted July 26, 2009 thats the handbrake adjustment, there is a hole to get to it from behind the backing plate. I'd adjust it up so that the brakes are only just starting to drag. I was sure there was an adjustment on on the master cylinder push rod (that joins the top of the brake pedal) but I haven't been under there for a little while. The pedal on kylie's ke55 is quite high and requires a fair amount of effort to stop (if the pads are cold its even worse). After thinking about brake upgrades on kylie's corolla (mostly with the idea of decreasing pedal effort required) I'm leaning towards putting slotted ke70 rotors on it with bendix ultimate pads (if I can't get them for corolla girlock calipers then pads from a vn commodore rear disc fit) so as not to drastically increase the unsprung weight, after all, it is a nice light small car, and its not like we've ever had pedal fade... but I'm digressing from your problem now :y: Robert. Quote
Redwarf Posted July 26, 2009 Report Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) Well, technically it's the adjuster for the rear brakes. The hand brake adjustment is either on the handbrake itself, or under the floor. If it's not adjusted right up, it'll cause a lower pedal. Edited July 26, 2009 by Redwarf Quote
Evan G Posted July 26, 2009 Author Report Posted July 26, 2009 thats the handbrake adjustment, there is a hole to get to it from behind the backing plate. I'd adjust it up so that the brakes are only just starting to drag. I was sure there was an adjustment on on the master cylinder push rod (that joins the top of the brake pedal) but I haven't been under there for a little while. The pedal on kylie's ke55 is quite high and requires a fair amount of effort to stop (if the pads are cold its even worse). After thinking about brake upgrades on kylie's corolla (mostly with the idea of decreasing pedal effort required) I'm leaning towards putting slotted ke70 rotors on it with bendix ultimate pads (if I can't get them for corolla girlock calipers then pads from a vn commodore rear disc fit) so as not to drastically increase the unsprung weight, after all, it is a nice light small car, and its not like we've ever had pedal fade... but I'm digressing from your problem now :y: Robert. i went and got brand new vn commo rear pads, there isnt increase of pad surface area, they just just sit torwards the hub more, and theres still a 1cm gap on the out side of the rotor i couldnt see a adjust for the push rod Quote
rob83ke70 Posted July 26, 2009 Report Posted July 26, 2009 pad surface area doesn't concern me (as long as it is the same as the original) I just want the slotted rotors and nicer pad compound to improve it's coefficient of friction (make it stop nicer)... if I can get bendix ultimate in a corolla pad I would. I haven't checked yet. Redwarf, I get somewhat confused with the technically correct names for things, I have serviced a few too many subarus with the handbrake working on a drum inside the rear disc and having the nice adjustment just like a regular drum brake... but the point is we both agree that if the rear drums aren't adjusted the pedal will travel further to pull the car up... had an instance of that happening on a hyundai excel in a very bad way... very scary to drive.... Evan, if the pedal is spongy when you pull up, ie if it sinks a bit after you stop, or just feels really soft/spongy then it's probably a master cylinder problem. there is no signs of leakage around the booster? I'm sure I paid around $250 trade for a ke55 master cylinder brand new from repco quite a few years back. I love it how they say on toyota master cylinder resevoirs that you should only use dot 3 fluid.... I've been using castrol response (dot 4) since I put the master cylinder on the car and have never had any problems. I'm quite sure that blaming fluid for seal failure is a cop out in most cases. We make a point of using dot3 fluid in toyotas (especially new ones) at work when we change the brake fluid, we used blue dot3 valvoline for a while, but the boss wasn't overly happy with it and now we are using toyota genuine (read: expensive) fluid in the new toyotas. PBR also make a blue dot3 fluid. I had no problems using the blue fluid, but sometimes with vehicles using abs the brake system takes more than the 500ml you are suppose to use to fluid new fluid through to each wheel. I personally have no problems charging a customer for two 500ml bottles if I use them. I figure that the brake system should have the ONE type of fluid in the whole of it, but I've been told by the boss that I'm only to use 500ml on each vehicle and that it doesn't matter if there is still old fluid in the calipers (as long as the fluid looks clean and neat in the resavoir and each wheel has been bled some)... I'm inclined to disagree but the boss is the boss. anyway, I digress from the topic.... I'm procrastinating, I should be washing up and cooking dinner. Robert. Quote
Evan G Posted July 26, 2009 Author Report Posted July 26, 2009 pad surface area doesn't concern me (as long as it is the same as the original) I just want the slotted rotors and nicer pad compound to improve it's coefficient of friction (make it stop nicer)... if I can get bendix ultimate in a corolla pad I would. I haven't checked yet. Redwarf, I get somewhat confused with the technically correct names for things, I have serviced a few too many subarus with the handbrake working on a drum inside the rear disc and having the nice adjustment just like a regular drum brake... but the point is we both agree that if the rear drums aren't adjusted the pedal will travel further to pull the car up... had an instance of that happening on a hyundai excel in a very bad way... very scary to drive.... Evan, if the pedal is spongy when you pull up, ie if it sinks a bit after you stop, or just feels really soft/spongy then it's probably a master cylinder problem. there is no signs of leakage around the booster? I'm sure I paid around $250 trade for a ke55 master cylinder brand new from repco quite a few years back. I love it how they say on toyota master cylinder resevoirs that you should only use dot 3 fluid.... I've been using castrol response (dot 4) since I put the master cylinder on the car and have never had any problems. I'm quite sure that blaming fluid for seal failure is a cop out in most cases. We make a point of using dot3 fluid in toyotas (especially new ones) at work when we change the brake fluid, we used blue dot3 valvoline for a while, but the boss wasn't overly happy with it and now we are using toyota genuine (read: expensive) fluid in the new toyotas. PBR also make a blue dot3 fluid. I had no problems using the blue fluid, but sometimes with vehicles using abs the brake system takes more than the 500ml you are suppose to use to fluid new fluid through to each wheel. I personally have no problems charging a customer for two 500ml bottles if I use them. I figure that the brake system should have the ONE type of fluid in the whole of it, but I've been told by the boss that I'm only to use 500ml on each vehicle and that it doesn't matter if there is still old fluid in the calipers (as long as the fluid looks clean and neat in the resavoir and each wheel has been bled some)... I'm inclined to disagree but the boss is the boss. anyway, I digress from the topic.... I'm procrastinating, I should be washing up and cooking dinner. Robert. thank you rob for the excellent write up, i will def adjust the hand brake again, pedal is low not spongy etc cheers Evan Quote
coln72 Posted July 26, 2009 Report Posted July 26, 2009 My KE35 used to do this a bit as the self adjusters didn't work. As the shoes wore the pedal would drop until it would go to the floor, but would "pump up" to the proper level with repeated brake applications. This was great for scaring the shit out of passengers :) Just had to get under the car to adjust up the rear brakes to fix it. Quote
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