JOEKA Posted July 14, 2009 Report Posted July 14, 2009 (edited) I got this ke10 lined up ready to buy, and i wanted to rebuild the engine from scratch MYSELF. I'm not going to try and grab some extra hp out of the engine or anything. Is there any online engine manuals I can download to help me build the engine, stating all the torque settings, lubricants and dial-in numbers, etc, that i need? If not, where can i get some engine manuals from, in book form obviously? Has anybody got any experience in building these engines, or any advice? Any machine shops in Melbourne have previous experience with these engines that you know of or would recomend for me? What parts would i be able to save and re-use? also, what parts wouldn't i? The parts that i will need, where can i get them from anyway? How do the crank, rods and pistons hold up? I'm guessing i'll need new pistons, but will the rods and crank be ok? what about the cam? Is the head simple to recondition myself, or will that need to be outsourced? Any advice and infomation would be greatly appreciated, even pictures wouldn't be a problem. Also, on a side note, this particular e10 is auto, 2 speed toyoglide, what manual gearboxes came in ke10s? what are they called, and are they rare to source? Thanks, I'm sort of new to corolla's, I've had a ke30 and ke55, and I'm restoring a friends ke30 2-door, but I'm new to engine rebuilding. Edited July 14, 2009 by JOEKA Quote
Felix Posted July 14, 2009 Report Posted July 14, 2009 If not, where can i get some engine manuals from, in book form obviously? Ebay. There are 2 corolla 1100 workshop manuals on there atm. Quote
JOEKA Posted July 14, 2009 Author Report Posted July 14, 2009 (edited) Ebay. There are 2 corolla 1100 workshop manuals on there atm. Know anywhere in AUS? edit: woops...don't worry. lol. Edited July 14, 2009 by JOEKA Quote
coln72 Posted July 14, 2009 Report Posted July 14, 2009 If you can, look for the Toyota Engine Manual. Its a factory book and it lists all of the figures that you need. It also concentrates on the engine only, and a lot of the information is backed up by step by step pictures. It usually has a bright orange cover - unless its faded to yellow like mine has. May not feature the 1k though :dance: Don't know any machinists in Melbourne, but I would recommend M&W engine services in Ballarat. Did a great job on my 5k a few years ago. Quote
silverra23 Posted July 15, 2009 Report Posted July 15, 2009 Dandenong Rebores in Dandenong are good with older engines. They have been around for years and know their stuff and charge a fair price. Quote
philbey Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 Most engine builders would have come across the K series engine so I wouldn't worry about who you go to. They are a very basic motor, especially given that you aren't aiming for more power. Engine builder will be able to tell you what parts you'll need. Pistons will depend on the rebore requirements. There's no need to get silly and put better cranks or rods in if you ane building a stock one. Cam depends on your need for power gains. Head will cost 200-300 for a reco. I just paid someone else to do it, plus I can't grind seats. I built a K engine recently and there are relatively few pitfalls for a beginner. For some reason it was very hard to find the 46.5mm welsh plug at the back of the motor, get ready for a lot of "are you sure it isn't an Imperial size" questions. For gearboxes and lots of other parts, go see Peter Robinson Automotive, Carinish rd Oakleigh. 9544 1162 Quote
JOEKA Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Posted July 16, 2009 Quick checklist: So with the pistons i might get lucky and just have to replace the rings to suit the new bores? Crank and rods can stay? Should i get them balanced? Where from? Get somebody else to reco the head? Where? What exactly needs to be done to the block? Rebuild the carby, ill do myself. What sort of sealants and loctite do you guys use and and what parts do you use them on? Don't have to worry about the exhaust. I can take care of that one. The sump, just chemically clean it? The oil pump? what do i do with it? replace it? reco it? The alternator should be fine... What else is there? Does anybody have a 1k engine manual, service and repair manual they want to chuck away? if so, don't chuck it away...give it to me. Seeing a lot of manuals on 3k's. Speaking of manuals...what's the name of the manual gearbox that came in ke10s? Quote
philbey Posted July 19, 2009 Report Posted July 19, 2009 Engine builder will measure bores and tell you what needs doing. I'd be expecting a 20thou overbore at least. Pistons will be needed to suit the bore. Engine builder will be able to balance all your rod and piston assemblies. Head can be done by the same engine builder. Block will need only really the rebore and you can have it dipped to clean the shit off it (paint it up nicely). Get new camshaft bearings and welsh plugs. Loctite, just regular thread locker will do. Permatex gasket sealant for the various gaskets. Give the sump a clean with some degreaser. Check the backlash on the oil pump as per the factory manual. Should be fine. Check the FAQ for tips on how to shim it to get more oil pressure. Thats basically it for a good tight running motor. Quote
Felix Posted July 19, 2009 Report Posted July 19, 2009 I wouldn't worry too much about balancing with a stock rebuild. If you are chasing more power with a bigger cam and higher redline, you would be better off starting out with a larger capacity K series motor. A 3k (1166cc), 4k (1290cc) or 5k (1486cc) will bolt in easily and have more capacity and a lot more potential than the little 1077cc K motor. Rebuild costs will be similar. Quote
JOEKA Posted July 19, 2009 Author Report Posted July 19, 2009 (edited) I'm rebuilding it myself. Standard K motor...everything standard, no aftermarket cam, not hunting for power. How do you balance the rods, just linish them til' they weigh the same? So i get the machinist to bore the cylinders, and i buy pistons to suit. Philbey...where did you take your block to get machined? Also who reco'd your head? Edited July 19, 2009 by JOEKA Quote
philbey Posted July 19, 2009 Report Posted July 19, 2009 Balancing will give you smoother, cleaner revving engine. It will cost about 200 bucks on top of the cost of the rebuild but isn't hugely necessary. To balance, they remove mass from each piston-rod-gudgeon pin assembly to match. Your machinist should be able to supply everything you need, pistons, VRS kit etc. I used API Engines in Lonsdale, Adelaide, but I'm now going to TW Engineering in St Agnes for my work. Top dudes. Quote
Paul- Posted July 22, 2009 Report Posted July 22, 2009 just keep in mind balancing the rods , is not just getting the overall weights right . they need to be balanced end to end , so that the rotating ends all weigh the same and the reciprocating ends all weigh the same . Quote
philbey Posted July 22, 2009 Report Posted July 22, 2009 Yeh, there's many different aspects to balancing, from simple straightforward work that is quick and easy to dynamic balancing. Quote
JOEKA Posted July 23, 2009 Author Report Posted July 23, 2009 For my build, to what extent do i have to balance the rods to? Quote
Felix Posted July 23, 2009 Report Posted July 23, 2009 If you are doing a stock rebuild, what is wrong with the stock factory rods as is? :y: Talk to your machinst, or do a bit of googling on diy balancing. Quote
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