rob83ke70 Posted July 11, 2009 Report Posted July 11, 2009 I have a mazda 626 v6, 1996 model that will not start. It has just had it's engine replaced with a secondhand unit, and it was running quite well, for a few days at least, then it started to missfire, like it either had a bad electrical problem (leads or similar) or it was flooding really badly. it then stalled and now will not restart. it has had a new timing belt and the cam timing is correct. I have good spark. I have put 6 new spark plugs in it. Ignition timing has not been moved from when it was running, cannot see any problems inside the cap or with the rotor or distributor, although as I said before, there is good fat blue sparks happening at the plugs. I have got fuel in the tank, the fuel pump is working, when cranking I get around 220kpa. the flow is around 0.5litres a minute when the engine cranks, upon releasing the key it climbs to 1.5litres/minute before the pump turns off. The spark plugs were quite wet with fuel. I have dried them repeatedly, so I have come to the conclusion that I have injector pulse (or the injectors are maybe stuck open??). I have dried them and disconnected the injector wiring and cranked for a long time as well in the hope of getting it to clear its flood. I can't get it to kick at all however and I am starting to despair. If I have good fat sparks, and I have fuel in the combustion chambers, I suppose the next thing to do now is to check the compression of the engine... sounds normal when cranking but I will put a gauge on it and measure it, if for no other reason than to provide myself something to do as I'm at my wits end just about. Has anybody got any ideas? I'd really really really like to work out what is happening today if I can!! I know its not a corolla, but there are quite a few of you out there that are car nuts such as myself and who get interested in all things automotive and mechanical related. Robert. Quote
rob83ke70 Posted July 11, 2009 Author Report Posted July 11, 2009 four cylinders are all at 165psi and the other two are around 145psi. more than likely a sealing error rather than actual compression problem. that is more than enough squish to fire the damn car up though!! gotta be a problem with the fuel delivery, or the spark is WAY off timing. Distributor goes in only the one way, timing is controlled by computer I'm pretty sure, so maybe a faulty ecu? stranger things have been known to happen I suppose. Any other opinions? Quote
rob83ke70 Posted July 11, 2009 Author Report Posted July 11, 2009 I've been told that the spark should jump a 20mm gap if it is within spec. The spark will not jump a 20mm gap, although it looks nice and blue and healthy on a 1.1mm gap (old spark plug) so therefore I have a faulty ignition coil. Quote
TRD ke70 Posted July 11, 2009 Report Posted July 11, 2009 this might help!!! http://isohunt.com/download/92623665/mazda.torrent Quote
TRD ke70 Posted July 12, 2009 Report Posted July 12, 2009 it's a torrent file of a manual for your car!!!! Quote
rob83ke70 Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Posted July 12, 2009 I'm a grumpy old man (I'm 23) and I don't have any idea what a torrent is!! Quote
sibbo Posted July 12, 2009 Report Posted July 12, 2009 I'm a grumpy old man (I'm 23) and I don't have any idea what a torrent is!! a torrent is a link to a file that you can download through a program for example Utorrent i hope that helps Quote
kexxxclub Posted July 12, 2009 Report Posted July 12, 2009 (edited) make sure all your earths are fixed to the car tightly and clean. Then need to check fuses etc . It sounds more like a timing problem or ignition problem . Do the comp test , it will give you a start. Have you checked the fuel quality that is in your tank? squeeze off the fuel return line and try start the car. It may help start it. Possibly injectors could be clagged, but i doubt it , unless you picked up a heap of crap in the fuel . Are all the air cleaner hoses tight. EG from where the airflow meter is etc. if there is a leak btw the airflow meter and the throttle body , your car definitely wont start or run as rough as guts Make sure that the crank is on no 1 Top Dead Centre. do this by removing no1 spark plug. Rotate your engine till the piston is in the full up position, and both valve on this cylinder are closed . Then check all your timing marks are correct . Edited July 12, 2009 by kexxxclub Quote
rob83ke70 Posted July 18, 2009 Author Report Posted July 18, 2009 Thankyou for your help everyone, I haven't had a chance to do anything yet, I've been at home with the flu in a fairly bad way all week. If the car is still there when I get to work next week I will let you know what happens :dance: Robert. Quote
Old fella Posted July 18, 2009 Report Posted July 18, 2009 I have a mazda 626 v6, 1996 model that will not start. It has just had it's engine replaced with a secondhand unit, and it was running quite well, for a few days at least, then it started to missfire, like it either had a bad electrical problem (leads or similar) or it was flooding really badly. it then stalled and now will not restart. it has had a new timing belt and the cam timing is correct. I have good spark. I have put 6 new spark plugs in it. Ignition timing has not been moved from when it was running, cannot see any problems inside the cap or with the rotor or distributor, although as I said before, there is good fat blue sparks happening at the plugs. I have got fuel in the tank, the fuel pump is working, when cranking I get around 220kpa. the flow is around 0.5litres a minute when the engine cranks, upon releasing the key it climbs to 1.5litres/minute before the pump turns off. The spark plugs were quite wet with fuel. I have dried them repeatedly, so I have come to the conclusion that I have injector pulse (or the injectors are maybe stuck open??). I have dried them and disconnected the injector wiring and cranked for a long time as well in the hope of getting it to clear its flood. I can't get it to kick at all however and I am starting to despair. If I have good fat sparks, and I have fuel in the combustion chambers, I suppose the next thing to do now is to check the compression of the engine... sounds normal when cranking but I will put a gauge on it and measure it, if for no other reason than to provide myself something to do as I'm at my wits end just about. Has anybody got any ideas? I'd really really really like to work out what is happening today if I can!! I know its not a corolla, but there are quite a few of you out there that are car nuts such as myself and who get interested in all things automotive and mechanical related. Robert. G`day mate, its always worth checking your fuel for contaminants such as water. You say that it was going ok after the transplant and then ran rough and then died. They are typical symptons of water in fuel. Try disconnecting your fuel line and allow the fuel pump to squirt some juice into a bucket or the lke and simply have a look. Petrol being lighter than water will stay on top and water droplets, if any, will appear on the bottom. It`s worth a try. Good luck. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.