thomo Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 checked here and there but couldnt find an outright answer so throwing the question out to anyone whos tried it before have picked up a good ke15 bp head factory twin carb bla bla... you all know whats on them still has original K motor and would like to leave that in it, matching numbers and all that (this thing WILL be doing targa tazzy) question is, given block heights are the same (?) can i fit the 3K crank etc to existing block to up the cc's, will it fit, or is it like the 4K 5K where its all in the bore if it would fit, will end result be the 10.7 comp ratio I'm chasing with the 3k rev and extra tork (compared to K at least) PS don't ask for pics, this things been stored out in the open for the last 20 + years and looks bloody horrible at the moment Quote
Felix Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 I wouldn't bother to much with the original motor. By all means give it a freshen up, wrap it in plastic and store it away for a later date if you want to return it to original. Depending on class rules you would be better putting together a decent 5k or even 7k. Torque rules. You will halve your gearchanges with a larger capacity motor. Quote
parrot Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 No fair, I want to see a photo - one will do. I can tell you that K and 3K's use the same piston, so presume the capacity is in the crank? Quote
Old fella Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 checked here and there but couldnt find an outright answer so throwing the question out to anyone whos tried it before have picked up a good ke15 bp head factory twin carb bla bla... you all know whats on them still has original K motor and would like to leave that in it, matching numbers and all that (this thing WILL be doing targa tazzy) question is, given block heights are the same (?) can i fit the 3K crank etc to existing block to up the cc's, will it fit, or is it like the 4K 5K where its all in the bore if it would fit, will end result be the 10.7 comp ratio I'm chasing with the 3k rev and extra tork (compared to K at least) PS don't ask for pics, this things been stored out in the open for the last 20 + years and looks bloody horrible at the moment G`day mate, its worth a look at the FAQ page to set your mind at ease on crankshafts/bore sizes. http://www.superjamie.net/oldcorollas/engine/blocks.html If my memory serves me correctly, the original 1077cc k motor only had a 3 main bearing crank. I think that was changed to 5 in the later 1166 2k motor. I am building a 4k at the moment and was given a balanced 3k crank and rods and thought that I would use them and save a few bucks. As it turns out, the centre main thrust area is totally different to the 4k, so for that crank, no go. You are doing the right thing by doing a bit of research and homework before laying out a whole bunch of bucks for nothing. Mate, my original ke10 (I owned it back in 1972/73) was heavily modified and I continually revved it to redline and it never looked like letting me down. The car would go off the speedo by about half an inch and was actually faster than some of the rally datto 1600`s of the day. Please consider using the K motor that you already have. You`ll have a heap of fun with it. Anyway, good luck with the build Quote
phill Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 G`day mate, its worth a look at the FAQ page to set your mind at ease on crankshafts/bore sizes.http://www.superjamie.net/oldcorollas/engine/blocks.html If my memory serves me correctly, the original 1077cc k motor only had a 3 main bearing crank. I think that was changed to 5 in the later 1166 2k motor. I am building a 4k at the moment and was given a balanced 3k crank and rods and thought that I would use them and save a few bucks. As it turns out, the centre main thrust area is totally different to the 4k, so for that crank, no go. You are doing the right thing by doing a bit of research and homework before laying out a whole bunch of bucks for nothing. Mate, my original ke10 (I owned it back in 1972/73) was heavily modified and I continually revved it to redline and it never looked like letting me down. The car would go off the speedo by about half an inch and was actually faster than some of the rally datto 1600`s of the day. Please consider using the K motor that you already have. You`ll have a heap of fun with it. Anyway, good luck with the build you are quite right there old fella just like how a datsun a10 (datsun 1000) has 3 main bearings compeared to an a 12 ( datsun 1200) keep the origanal motor in it I'm spewin i have f@$kled around with my ke 10 2 door hey hmm targa tassie hey Quote
Redwarf Posted July 3, 2009 Report Posted July 3, 2009 Your option would be to build it as a 17 replica and use a 3K. (Sorry Doug, original engines only!) I had a 3K out to 1360 with a 4K crank, charade pistons (Can find sizing if interested). I know with a different piston we were looking at just over 1400cc, but I can't remeber what it was. Godd motor. Revved and had torque, particularly with weber-ation. Decent cam, go racing. Slight maching of the piston and head to make fit, ended up with 10.8:1, and ran 98 octane happily. Quote
thomo Posted July 6, 2009 Author Report Posted July 6, 2009 no styling body mods between the 15 and 17 that I'm aware of, just an outright motor swap to upgrade, sounds like the go, Quote
Redwarf Posted July 6, 2009 Report Posted July 6, 2009 You just need some "Corolla 1200" badges and you're good to go! :wink: Quote
Rolla__Boy Posted July 6, 2009 Report Posted July 6, 2009 I'll sneek a pic and post it up next time I am in there and see the car :wink: Quote
camerondownunder88 Posted July 7, 2009 Report Posted July 7, 2009 Few changes on KE17 they had rear vision mirror on drivers door, 1200 badge, and got a 3K that is off top of head think there are more. Also since they were made later they could have a late model KE1X front end guards lower indicators bumper etc. Can be quite a few changes. Also an original K motor has a lighter flywheel, original clutch cover has 60lbs more clamping pressure, Bigger cam in engine, higher compression head, water outlet for manifold heating under inlet/outlet port on cyclinder 4, no PCV gear, On back of moor the bolt lay out for the rear flex plate etc is different (I had to do a lot of stuffing abotu to get a 5K to drop into mine due to this easy fix but), engine number is in front of dizzy not behind...etc quite a few differences between a KE15/17 K motor and all other K motors. So hope that info can help. Feel free to ask if you need more. Cheers Cameron Quote
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