LukeAE71 Posted June 24, 2009 Report Posted June 24, 2009 This topic goes for both AE71 and KE70, prob more common to change to manual in AE71 though. When changing a xE7x from auto to manual… I notice that when you get the manual shifter the rubber boots that go with it do not bolt straight up to the trans tunnel where they would on a manual model. I understand plenty of people would have had the same problem so what are some solutions to this issue? I am trying to get my car as quiet as possible on the inside so look forward to any suggestions. Quote
Roo Posted June 24, 2009 Report Posted June 24, 2009 lol i run a it with a hole in there, not so good when its raining get water in my car, but exhaust heats you up on a cold day :) Quote
LukeAE71 Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Posted June 24, 2009 lol i run a it with a hole in there, not so good when its raining get water in my car, but exhaust heats you up on a cold day :D Doesn't the whining and road noise drive you bonkers :) I am going to have a better look at it on the weekend and I'll post up what I come up with :) Quote
philbey Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 I have the same problem in my KE16. I actually cut extra metal out of my trans tunnel and the piece I removed is intact with all the welded nuts so that one day I can convert it back to Auto if I want (Toyoglide for the win) I'm just running a hole at the moment (DHLA noise massively outweighs the roadnoise) but I'm just going to cut out a panel from a Manual KE55 and weld that into my tunnel, that way I can use a boot from a KE55 and it will bolt right in. Only problem is I need a battery power angle grinder to take to the wreckers! Quote
LukeAE71 Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Posted June 25, 2009 (edited) I have the same problem in my KE16. I actually cut extra metal out of my trans tunnel and the piece I removed is intact with all the welded nuts so that one day I can convert it back to Auto if I want (Toyoglide for the win) I'm just running a hole at the moment (DHLA noise massively outweighs the roadnoise) but I'm just going to cut out a panel from a Manual KE55 and weld that into my tunnel, that way I can use a boot from a KE55 and it will bolt right in. Only problem is I need a battery power angle grinder to take to the wreckers! I thought of this idea - that is welding in a panel from a manual version. I think that is the best option and there are a few out at U Pull It. Having the same difficulty with the battery angle grinder, I can't seem to find where you can rent them and the cheapest you can buy one for is about $350. My induction noise from the 20V also cancels out the road noise but when you are travelling at 60 it is quiet except you can hear the whine from the tailshaft, gearbox, etc. I am fussy I know but as this is meant to be a nice daily I would like if it had some creature comforts :) EDIT: I found someone to lend me a portable angle grinder, woot off to U Pull It I go :) Edited June 25, 2009 by LukeAE71 Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 I thought of this idea - that is welding in a panel from a manual version. I think that is the best option and there are a few out at U Pull It. Having the same difficulty with the battery angle grinder, I can't seem to find where you can rent them and the cheapest you can buy one for is about $350. My induction noise from the 20V also cancels out the road noise but when you are travelling at 60 it is quiet except you can hear the whine from the tailshaft, gearbox, etc. I am fussy I know but as this is meant to be a nice daily I would like if it had some creature comforts :) Use the manual boot as a template. Drill 4 holes. Get 4 m6 nuts and bolts then do them up to retain the thing. If you want it to be most factory, then perhaps you could get under there, pop the box out of the way, and spot weld the nuts under the car, basically making it like how the manual tunnel is, with the threads fixed into the car. The auto hole is longer and skinnier from memory, Id measure the rough sized spot you need to fill and go wreckers hunting till i find something that fits the auto console and covers the whole hole, then Id do the above to fix it there. I have an auto console here, so i may be able adapt that to my jdm ae86 rubber boot which has a similar shape to the auto cutout, and is bulkier and bigger in general than the rubber boot on the kes. You'd be best to try and copy the way Toyota did it, so it doesn't look modified or anything. Worst comes to worst, you can weld some sheet metal into the tunnel to cover the exposed parts of the hole if their is any. Quote
philbey Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 Haha. Buy a merc for creature comforts! If you have a battery drill of a particular brand, you can buy probably get a grinder of the same (without batteries) and that should save you a packet. Mind you the cheapest I've seen them was 300+ without batteries! Quote
LukeAE71 Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Posted June 25, 2009 Use the manual boot as a template. Drill 4 holes. Get 4 m6 nuts and bolts then do them up to retain the thing. If you want it to be most factory, then perhaps you could get under there, pop the box out of the way, and spot weld the nuts under the car, basically making it like how the manual tunnel is, with the threads fixed into the car. The auto hole is longer and skinnier from memory, Id measure the rough sized spot you need to fill and go wreckers hunting till i find something that fits the auto console and covers the whole hole, then Id do the above to fix it there. I have an auto console here, so i may be able adapt that to my jdm ae86 rubber boot which has a similar shape to the auto cutout, and is bulkier and bigger in general than the rubber boot on the kes. You'd be best to try and copy the way Toyota did it, so it doesn't look modified or anything. Worst comes to worst, you can weld some sheet metal into the tunnel to cover the exposed parts of the hole if their is any. I had a JDM 86 Shifter with rubber boot and that still did not cover the hole :) I have now reverted to a ADM shifter as it has the two rubber boots and metal ring surround to hold it all down. Without running a centre console these two boots will still look decent. The biggest issue is that (like you stated) the auto hole is longer and skinnier so there are going to be exposed parts at the front and back of the rubber boot. I obtained all the right parts and the bolts from the wreckers, came home and to my disappointment it didn't work. I can't believe there are so many subtle differences between the manual and auto models. It makes me wish I started with a manual. I have located a cordless angle grinder from a mate so I am going to hack the shit out of a manual car at U Pull It and then when I get it home cut it down to the right size required and get someone to weld it in. I really want it to be as factory as possible. I also have to find a damn plastic centre console in dark blue which is also different for the auto. grrrr :) Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 I had a JDM 86 Shifter with rubber boot and that still did not cover the hole :) I have now reverted to a ADM shifter as it has the two rubber boots and metal ring surround to hold it all down. Without running a centre console these two boots will still look decent. The biggest issue is that (like you stated) the auto hole is longer and skinnier so there are going to be exposed parts at the front and back of the rubber boot. I obtained all the right parts and the bolts from the wreckers, came home and to my disappointment it didn't work. I can't believe there are so many subtle differences between the manual and auto models. It makes me wish I started with a manual. I have located a cordless angle grinder from a mate so I am going to hack the shit out of a manual car at U Pull It and then when I get it home cut it down to the right size required and get someone to weld it in. I really want it to be as factory as possible. I also have to find a damn plastic centre console in dark blue which is also different for the auto. grrrr :) Yeah thats the other option, just weld a manual tunnel into the perfect spot, bit of a shitter but nothing too hard. Fabrication is half the fun. The other half would be driving. Quote
LukeAE71 Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Posted June 25, 2009 Yeah thats the other option, just weld a manual tunnel into the perfect spot, bit of a shitter but nothing too hard. Fabrication is half the fun. The other half would be driving. Already enjoying the driving part, I absolutely love it :) Just tidying up little bits now :) Quote
TE278U Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 nutserts in the right location would negate the need to cut the tunnel. google nutsert or rivnut if you don't know what i mean. Quote
LukeAE71 Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Posted June 25, 2009 nutserts in the right location would negate the need to cut the tunnel. google nutsert or rivnut if you don't know what i mean. I will look this up. I will also take pics on the weekend for future reference :y: Quote
altezzaclub Posted June 26, 2009 Report Posted June 26, 2009 Hmm.. how I did it with photos here- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493 Looks just like factory now Quote
LukeAE71 Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Posted June 26, 2009 (edited) Hmm.. how I did it with photos here- http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493 Looks just like factory now Thankyou kind sir :y: Did you find the centre console from the auto then fits over?? Mine does not however in your pic that looks like an auto centre console Edited June 26, 2009 by LukeAE71 Quote
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