fresnoboi Posted June 11, 2009 Report Posted June 11, 2009 hi guys I'm trying to change out my old ke20 rare suspension or actually upgrade. Hope to get any of the newer model with 4x114 pattern. But not sure what will fit in my KE20. Quote
archangel62 Posted June 29, 2009 Report Posted June 29, 2009 Ok so I've read through the FAQ's, and there's a lot of info on KE1x suspension, KE30/55 and KE70 suspension, but nothing (that I can see) directly says anything whatsoever about KE20's.. I'm on the bandwagon of people trying to learn more about the KE20's. Can anyone just give me plain and simple, one paragraph rundown of what KE2x suspension has in common with KE1x and KE3x so I can use the FAQ information?? Where did the changes happen and what changed? Quote
coln72 Posted June 29, 2009 Report Posted June 29, 2009 OK. Grab some KE30 or KE55 axles to suit your diff - Jap for Jap Borgy for Borgy. Machine approx 2-3mm of the spline end. Pull Ke20 axles and slot in KE30/55 axles. Done. Quote
archangel62 Posted June 29, 2009 Report Posted June 29, 2009 (edited) Great, thanks. While I'm on a roll (sorry to hijack fresnoboi but I'm guessing I'd get flamed for making a new topic...) Will KE30/55/70/AE** LCAs, struts, brakes etc fit? And, most importantly, will later KE steering boxes/racks/whatever fit without too much modification? I would go to the wreckers and figure all of this out for myself, but good luck finding a KE20 at a self-service wrecking yard. And don't worry, your knowledge and advice will be put to good use. I'm only a noob on this forum.. :) Edited June 29, 2009 by archangel62 Quote
coln72 Posted June 30, 2009 Report Posted June 30, 2009 Strut tops will not fit without a shitload of cutting and grinding of both the strut top and the strut tower. Don't think struts etc will fit (never tried), same with LCA's. Think the bolt spacing is a pooftenth different between KE2* and Ke3* onwards. Can fit KE3* onwards brakes to KE2* struts easily. Need to remove the KE2* caliper mount from strut, and fit KE3* caliper mount. Should drill and retap bolt holes as the KE2* is a smaller size than the KE3* bolts, but I didn't :) Run a ke2* inner bearing and a ke3* or what ever your brakes came off outer bearing. Hope this makes sense. Quote
archangel62 Posted July 1, 2009 Report Posted July 1, 2009 Awesome, thanks for the great info. At least brakes have potential for easy swaps, I'd rather run stock struts with springs, and proper brakes, than coilovers with stock brakes haha... Noone likes glowing brakes. Last of all, steering box/rack assembly. I am a complete noob when it comes to this as I've never personally had to touch one*, but now the girlfriend's 20 has a completely buggered steering box, pitman arm and tie rod ends, and parts are so hard to find new that I was wondering if I could just convert the lot to a later steering box/rack. Would I have a hope in hell of bolting up a KE30-55 steering box, or whatever KE70's have (rack I think)? *lol, nearly wrote "I've never touched a rack or a box" Quote
coln72 Posted July 1, 2009 Report Posted July 1, 2009 Never tried to swap steering bits. Used to fix the slop in the steering box by filling with grease. Have heard reports of ball joints being repaired by getting them injected with some sort of plastic. May be an option. Quote
parrot Posted July 1, 2009 Report Posted July 1, 2009 I am guessing fresnoboi is located in the US. If so, a good option for you would be some AE86 GTS struts with vented disc and 114.3 pcd. You will need some steering arms (steering knuckles) out of a TE2x, which you should source easy enough over there. AE86 struts will then bolt straight in, with a bit of positive camber which can be managed with some adjustable strut tops. Quote
coln72 Posted July 2, 2009 Report Posted July 2, 2009 IMO adjustable strut tops in a KE20 are a waste of time due to the size of the spring verses tower. In mine there wasn't enough room to get any significant camber. In a KE20, it is possible to redrill the crossmember to move the LCA's. Mine were moved approx 2" each side. Quote
archangel62 Posted July 2, 2009 Report Posted July 2, 2009 In a KE20, it is possible to redrill the crossmember to move the LCA's. Mine were moved approx 2" each side. That's a really handy thing to know... Personally I don't like the sounds of filling balljoints with plastic, sounds like it's just asking for a catastrophic failure when it lets go.. But I'm sure it can't be too hard to modify either the LCA or the hub/strut assembly (or both) to accept a different balljoint.. The only concern would be making sure the designed work range matches, etc... But if the new BJs are off of a near identical setup then I'm sure it'll be fine. Plus, I'm sure people who use lock spacers etc don't even consider these things. Bah, just the bloody dead spot - steering box and pitman arm. How far does this grease trick go? :y: not sure if it'd quite cut it with this sloppy old steering box, but might be worth a try. I might have to spend a day with my head under the 20's bonnet, followed by another day at the wreckers... Cheers for the replies guys, now we're getting somewhere :wink: Quote
coln72 Posted July 2, 2009 Report Posted July 2, 2009 Have you tried tightening up the adjuster on top of the steering box????? Loosen the lock nut, tighten the bolt thing with a screw driver and re lock. Should take out some of the slop in the steering box. I have spoken to people who have had their ball joints etc injected and they seem to have had no issues. don't know how many or what type of k's they do either...... Quote
archangel62 Posted July 2, 2009 Report Posted July 2, 2009 (edited) I haven't tried that but might give it a whirl sunday. I seriously know nothing about steering boxes, so that's a great start. The part I believe to be the pitman arm (can get pics) has a joint on the end of it with a rubber jacket (looks kinda like a tie rod end), and a shit lot of play, as if the nut was loose... So I took the split pin out but it really didn't want to tighten, seemed like the thread's max'd out. When she turns the steering wheel you can watch the bolt move inside the joint before it actually bites, it's quite scary... I'm thinking that unless I can somehow source a new one of these I might try fitting washers behind the nut, seems like a bandaid solution though. But the steering box and tie rod ends are both believed to be stuffed, so I'll start by tightening the bolt with the locknut on the box. Will report Sunday all going well! Hopefully with pics. I'm feeling a little bad about stealing this thread though... Wonder if I should start my own. Edited July 2, 2009 by archangel62 Quote
mungi mods Posted November 14, 2009 Report Posted November 14, 2009 ke 70 struts are longer than 20 struts by about 2 inches they will bolt in using 20 strut tops ke70 lca's will bolt into a 20 but the 20 castor rods bolt spacing is out by about 2 mm ke20 castor rods are about 2 inches shorter than ke 70 ones i have bolted a whole ke70 front assembly into my 20 ,then removed it to change front pattern all you need is ke 70 front hubs.. unbolt the discs off ke20 and bolt them onto ke 70 hubs ,use ke 20 backing plates and calipers... not a brake upgrade as ke 70 backing plates have a different stud pattern where they bolt to the strut Quote
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