Falken_KE30 Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 First of all, yes ive spent most of this evening google'ing, searching forums ect.... so cut me some slack :hmm: Problem is my KE55 Decided to die on me the other day Its a KE55, with a 4k from a KE70. stock as a rock First Question. the Mechanical pump has a return line. the KE55 doesn't have a return line to take to make use of this. is it fine to block it off at pump ? Reason the car died is the Carby over fueled its self. I am led to believe this is cause of the Float level OR a sticky needle? Any other reasons why the Carby would fill up with fuel to the point it stalled? the pump wouldn't cause that cause i blocked off the return line? I did a bit reading on setting the needle and seat, and float level ect. and Pointers on doing this? (no i don't have a manual so don't ask lol) just need a basic run down on getting it going again. any help be great, can take pics if needed. no doubt ill be back here with pics tomorrow with carb in pieces haha :dance: Quote
bLinded_ Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) May be a long shot, but, with my sisters old Ke35/55/something, the choke used to stick "on" when you used it. So if you pulled the choke "on" and then put it "off", the butterflies still were closed and would cause it to over fuel and randomly stall at traffic lights/stopping. Chances are that it will be something else, but I just thought, being colder weather and all now, chances are that you may have started using the choke. I thought that a sticking n+s would more affect the car once it is turned off, and then tried to start up again as it would cause fuel to continue to run into the manifold when the engine is off and thus flood it when you try and restart it. I could be way off here though :dance: Hopefully someone else will be able to help. Edited May 24, 2009 by bLinded_ Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Posted May 24, 2009 Choke isnt connected, haven't needed to use it. whats wrong people spending an extra 30 seconds holding the throttle? lol Quote
bLinded_ Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 Haha, yeah well, that rules out that one then :dance: And I do agree with you about using the choke. I've never had one either. Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Posted May 24, 2009 Hmmm also does the Float Level affect the Initial acceleration? cause coughing a spluttering in the first few revs, then clears out? Quote
jay78 Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 hey mate i got a 4k in a ke70 my carbie stuffed so replaced it with a weber and why doing that i decided to block of the return line, it started then stopped after hours of hair ripping we decided to hook the return line back up it then started straight away so it could be to much fuel pressure as this can force your needle to stay open end give very poor take off to Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Posted May 24, 2009 (edited) Thats what i thought. any way around this? The mechanical pump that was on the original KE55 motor had a different shaped arm that sits on the cam and pumps. i tried it but the car was leaning out and ran crap. Actually on a quick note, when i had both pumps i got spare apart, the only difference besides the arm shapes, was the top part. one had a fuel return, one didnt. Edited May 24, 2009 by Falken_KE30 Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted May 25, 2009 Author Report Posted May 25, 2009 Got some pics of the 2 pumps, also on a side note the carby was munted :dance:. took the top off and had a look. the float had hole in it and the needle thing it presses against was broken. On the left is the KE55 pump, Right is KE70 can't see any reason why i can't just put the KE55 top half onto the KE70 bottom half. ideas? Quote
HarlemSessions Posted May 25, 2009 Report Posted May 25, 2009 "T-Piece" your return line back into the fuel line going to your pump. :dance: Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted May 25, 2009 Author Report Posted May 25, 2009 could do, but rather swap the tops. might do that and see what happens. worse that could happen is it don't pump fuel :dance: Quote
Felix Posted May 25, 2009 Report Posted May 25, 2009 Do yourself a favour and buy either a fuel pump kit, or a new fuel pump. Things that can go wrong are the diaphram splitting, the valves die and don't pump, and the seal on the pushrod hardens and leaks. There are a couple of new fuel pumps on ebay atm for just under $50 delivered. Quote
skidsharpe Posted May 25, 2009 Report Posted May 25, 2009 man if i was you i wouldnt bother worrying about the carby. just take it off and throw another one on there. Save your self alot of time after all its only 4 nuts and a cable. and i also agree with buying a new fuel pump. alot easier Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted May 25, 2009 Author Report Posted May 25, 2009 (edited) i already have a good pump on it now, main question is, is it ok to block off the return line? those two pumps in pics are old ones. Just showing the difference in the two. As for carby i am getting a replacement, i said nothing about fixing this one :dance:. and i know its only 4 bolts, ffs. And Felix, i know the Diaphragm cracks, thats the reason i had to replace the 2nd Pump... 1st pump was wrong type arm, 2nd pump leaked through the cracks int he diaphragm and came out the breather holes on bottom. Edited May 25, 2009 by Falken_KE30 Quote
Felix Posted May 25, 2009 Report Posted May 25, 2009 (edited) No worries, I just thought you were replacing a stuffed pump. About 2 years ago I had to replace a fuel pump on one of my cars. I had 5 old pumps on the shelf and they all had issues: 2 with cracked diaphrams, 2 with bad valves and one with a buggered seal on the arm. I bought a new pump. I don't really think the return makes that much difference. The earlier cars didn't have a return line. Edited May 25, 2009 by Felix Quote
Falken_KE30 Posted May 25, 2009 Author Report Posted May 25, 2009 Nah the KE55 doesnt have a return line. So can anyone confirm that blocking the return line on the pump causes extra fuel pressure? Quote
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