Cheap Engine Mods For A 4a-ge

[quadeyquade]

f@$k IT, going 4agze.

[trav_555]

Heaps better idea, good compression, can run decent boost, gonna get the afm or map version of he 4agze?

 

Travis.

[quadeyquade]

No idea, MAP is preferred correct?

[Jesseb369]

Very correct. 120kw can be had stock i think? if you get the right model engine.

[trav_555]

Map version has lower compression 8.0:1 later afm has 8.5:1? or similar, its also older and rarer and most likely more expensive as I'm pretty sure its import only I think.

 

Travis.

[dbr11k]

decomp plate and you can turbo any thing

[Hiro Protagonist]

Map version has lower compression 8.0:1 later afm has 8.5:1? or similar, its also older and rarer and most likely more expensive as I'm pretty sure its import only I think.

 

Travis.

 

MAP GZE is newer than AFM. There are 2 kinds of AFM GZE (dizzy and coil-pack, AW11 and AE92), both are bigport-based and 8.0:1 compression ratio, and there are 2 kinds of MAP GZE (AE92 and AE101), both are coil-pack and 8.9:1 compression.

[quadeyquade]

Wait, is it the MAP or AFM that's able to be turboed without a aftermarket ecu?

[Hiro Protagonist]

Wait, is it the MAP or AFM that's able to be turboed without a aftermarket ecu?

 

Both, probably, but I think you run into problems faster with the MAP sensor, then in saying that both AFM and MAP versions benefit from an aftermarket ECU

[trav_555]

Darn, I remember now, I meant the bigport is older and rarer yes? :yes:

 

Sorry,

 

I wouldnt want to turbo a 4age of any kind unless i was running some form of aftermarket management.

 

But thats my personal preferance anyway.

[towe001]

AFM the spring can be reset to give a stronger fuel mixture. Where as the MAP you can use a pair of resistors to change the fuel mixture. MAP would be better cause of being able to change the mixture in the cabin while driving.

 

Aftermarket ECU - Megasquirt

[Hiro Protagonist]

Darn, I remember now, I meant the bigport is older and rarer yes? 8/

 

Bigport GZEs are probably just as common as smallport ones, but yes it is older.

[philbey]

Open to most things. I don't want to turbo the car yet, still want to drive it as an N/A car. :y:

 

Guys the discussion is heading quite off topic from the original poster's queries.

 

The cheap cam swap mod has a lot of merit - sure it's only a few degrees, and although the extra lift is only .5 mm, it's still more lift. And when you're done with the cams you can probably get most of your money back selling them.

 

You could budget 500 bucks for some newer cams, a set of extractors and a better exhaust. Minor upgrades, but cheap and will improve power, just what you wanted.

[trav_555]

Yea I reckon HKS 264 cams, extractors or jdm stock inlet manifold and secondries, then a 2 - 2 1/4" exhaust, Some head work if you can afford it, and a trd metal head gasket. All that would be perfect if your setting yourself a small amount of money on upgrades that are relatively easy and will provide you with some more power for sure. Also Aftermarket ecu would be nice but you could get away with stock possibly, also I think its called a piggy back ecu? its cheaper and it dosent really adjust it much, not like a megasquirt or microtech etc, I havent looked into them but ive heard little things here and there, I'm not sure if there expensive though :y:

 

If you still have money, Smallport: get it port and polished at a workshop with a flow bench.

 

If bigport, same but only remove dags and polish, the ports don't need to be any bigger.

 

Other upgrades: Bigger cams, 272/288. Larger valves, I Think you can buy 2mm over size. TRD/HKS Valve springs. Convert to under bucket shims, ITB's, High compression bottom end, forged internals yada yada yada, etc etc. If you want to go past my first paragraph don't listen to what I'm telling you work it out for yourself, your going to need too :wink:

 

Travis.

[towe001]

In two minds about the ITB's (if their from the 20v) cause normally its a custom manifold to have them fitted up. And unless you can do it yourself with the parts, materials and tooling its generally not really that cheap.

The same can be said for the forged internals - upside is higher strength, downside is higher cost.

 

I know where your coming from with what you said Trav, but if its a road car i wouldn't be too concerned with forged stuff, maybe go as far as the gze crank but i think that'd be about it.