Cheap Engine Mods For A 4a-ge

[trav_555]

Yea would definately have to change to 7 rib block too, use the 7 rib crank or gze crank, you could even use st conrods a gze crank and some forged pistons.

 

But if your going to spend that kind of money I certainly hope it isnt going to just be a road car daily. It was have to see its fair share of track days.

 

As for the ITB's id say do them if your already going afermarket big cams 272/288/304 or bigger and ecu and a whole heap of head work. Because your going to NEED an aftermarket ecu its going to cost you alot already so an extra $200+ for the ITB's and $250+ for a manifold if you cannot fabricate one. There is no extra wiring because your already doing your Aftermarket ECU. Its kind of the thing I would only put in if i was doing a giant package modification if you know what I mean. If your going to do those sorts of modifications you really need to do it all at once. The fact is though doing it like that you can't do it on the cheap because since your doing so much modification all at once you can't narrow down problems so easily.

 

And if something can go wrong in your engine build, it will.

 

Travis.

Edited June 20, 2009 by trav_555

[MYSTIK[RL]]

In two minds about the ITB's (if their from the 20v) cause normally its a custom manifold to have them fitted up. And unless you can do it yourself with the parts, materials and tooling its generally not really that cheap.

The same can be said for the forged internals - upside is higher strength, downside is higher cost.

 

I know where your coming from with what you said Trav, but if its a road car i wouldn't be too concerned with forged stuff, maybe go as far as the gze crank but i think that'd be about it.

 

i really wish people would stop with the spreading of shit myths about the ge/gze being so radically different from each other because they not. :y:

 

and no the above isnt directed at anybody in particular

 

ge and gze internals are basically the same, only difference is the pistons.

 

the 16v(ge) is a map sensor(ed) engine, so you can run open ITB's, and yes it can be done on the stock ecu(and will over fuel like a mofo), its better to get a piggy back/full stand alone ecu.

[Kozmo]

While we're on this topic...

 

I'm thinking about mods for my 4AGE, and one on the top of my list is water/meth injection.

As I'm on my P's I may not be able to legally s/t charge my car... but upping the compression ratio would be one way to squeeze some more power out of the engine.

At stock, 10.5:1 compression ratio when I run 91 octane fuel I can tell without a doubt that the ECU drastically retards the timing to stop pinging.

I understand that the fuel being used is one of the main determiners of what compression ratio can be used without detonation.

Another part of it of course is reducing the temperature of the air "charge" (I'm still talking about N/A).

I think I have an idea of the maths required to work out the amount water to be injected (dependent upon RPM).

The tricky bit would be working out the flow rate of an injection nozzle and being able to control the amount of flow through a pump accurately.

 

Anyway, long story short - has any one set up a water injection system on a 4AGE, or any other engine for that matter?

[cuppas]

seems like too much trouble and expense for not enough gain

[trav_555]

What 4age engine do you have? what specs?

 

There are more useful modifications than water injection ;)

 

Start running 98 fuel, get an aftermarket ecu, up your compression ratio, better flowing head everything that has already been done, water/methanol injection from what ive read and heard will do shit all unless your running a really really well setup engine.

 

Cheers

 

Travis

[towe001]

Generally water/methanol injection (about a 50:50 mix) is more of a poor man reasoning for not being able to run an intercooler on a force fed motor. To reduce the intake temperature charge down to a better level which helps with the engine knock from having too high a intake temp blah blah blah.

On that note it can be fitted to an atmo engine but its a really pointless waste of time, money and effort

 

Have a hunt around for "dynamic compression ratio" and "static compression ratio". You'll find altering the fuel charge and/or the cam timing will help with the pinging. Unless you have the 98 octane fuel available from either the fuel pump or your pocket.

[JedzWagn]

I love the way the original poster has buggered off into the ether somewhere & the post continues - off topic.

So years later for anyone who may come again & read to the end of this thread, here's my 20c worth.

 

Strictly cheap.

 

He said he'd fitted exhaust but didn't mention extractors, so if he hadn't done that, 2nd hand extractors would be the go.

 

Look up autospeed website for fuel injector comparison, then head to local pick apart wreckers & find the injector that's in the same ballpark as yours but just a little bigger, too big & you'll confuse your ECU.

 

Run cleansing treatments through your oil & fuel a few times over.

Switch to high octane fuel & synthetic oil, although a little more expensive, they're sustainable - just cut back on the junk food fat-boy!

 

Fit a cold air intake & shield it (or wrap it) from the engine, ensure it has a good mouth open to unrestricted air, high flo filter of course & run the largest pipes you can, gradually tapering the diameter down to the throttle body size, this rams the air & creates a mild amount of added air pressure.

 

Not all throttle bodies are the same diameter so if you can find a used larger one you'll be improving air flow

 

Shield & or wrap your extractors from the air coming into the engine bay.

Look around for used custom plenum that's a bit larger & better ported than stock.

Also create a shield between the engine head & your plenum, for transverse mount engines you can make the plenum shield match up with a reverse bonnet scoop that vents onto your windscreen, which helps with de-misting!

 

for around $80 bucks you can fit higher quality sparking plugs that improve ignition/combustion

 

Look up spark plug indexing where you face the spark point of of your plug in the direction of the intake valves, also said to improve combustion

[Hiro Protagonist]

I love the way the original poster has buggered off into the ether somewhere & the post continues - off topic.

 

How about the way that you add a new reply over a year since the last post in the thread......

[JedzWagn]

Yup - read the next line I wrote below, I did acknowledge that.."So years later.."

 

Anyway..

 

Old / new forum - you never know who's gonna read & get something out of it..

[JedzWagn]

AFM the spring can be reset to give a stronger fuel mixture. Where as the MAP you can use a pair of resistors to change the fuel mixture. MAP would be better cause of being able to change the mixture in the cabin while driving.

 

Aftermarket ECU - Megasquirt

 

Ancient revival:

 

How do you reset the spring in the AFM?

Do you make it looser or tighter to give a stronger fuel mixture?

 

Also has anyone ever heard of using JB weld & mildly porting the few turbulant areas of the AFM.

 

I was quite suprised at it's narrow square shapethe air has to squeaze through before reaching the intakes