4age Wont Start

[parrot]

Could be all sorts of things.

 

Can I suggest you go here and download the diagnostics manual and work through the problem in a methodical manner.

 

This is a Toyota factory book that takes you through things step by step depending on the fault. As you would have a factory wiring setup, it should be particularly useful.

[beerhead]

I did some research today about incandescent bulbs. When cold they draw 15 times the current of a warm filament, for 0.13 of a second according to wiki.

 

Most test lights run a 3 watt bulb, which means 3 x 15 = 45w at start up. So I still don't think you can burn out an ecu by pluggin one in. Heat is what damages mosfets, so testing them on a bulb for 3 seconds isn't going to burn out the ecu. But then again, those figures are based on low impedance injectors. Maybe it's a no no on the high impedance gear that draws low current. On an early bigport ecu the injectors are in batch fire, so with the other injectors unplugged you could draw 200W before there is an issues, as they're all wired in parallel.

[dog179]

thanks guys for the responses been busy with work this week then coming home late every night and working on this damn car trying to get it to start and to no avail still no go.now i have replaced the ignighter,plugs,dizzy cap,roter,spark plug leads and i still don't have spark.power suply to ecu is 12.92 volts and ignition signal at ecu is 0.68 which is a little low but it should still start .what am i over looking.??????

[parrot]

So you worked through the diagnostic manual?

[dog179]

no i actaully went back to the basics of how i used to try and dieognosed older cars .then started checking evry thing with a multimetre.oh one more thing yes i do have injecter pulse.

[parrot]

Wrong. Been there done that myself and it only leads to unnecessary expense as you replace perfectly good components.

 

Look at the diagnosis manual

[dog179]

according to the self dieognostics box the igf isnt picking up a signal.so what would your recomendations be.[thecircuit opening relay.?]

[Medicine_Man]

could be open circuit in the dizzy, could be open circuit anywhere from the dizzy back to the ecu..

[Kebin[RL]]

Most test lights run a 3 watt bulb, which means 3 x 15 = 45w at start up. So I still don't think you can burn out an ecu by pluggin one in.

 

You obviously don't work with many control units of different purposes. What if, say your average enthusiast probes the injector plugs with a regular test light and does not get a pulse. He then decides to try and check the pins at the ecu itself. All it takes is a probe in the wrong pin to damage the ecu.

Bulb test lights should not be practiced to check anything related to ecu's of any sort. Thats what multimeters and led test lights are for.

 

Practice being safer than sorry. Thats all I'm trying to say here

Edited May 2, 2009 by Kebin

[Kebin[RL]]

ignition signal at ecu is 0.68 which is a little low but it should still start .what am i over looking.??????

So there is no ignition power to the ecu? Have you checked operation of c/o relay?

[Medicine_Man]

He says he has an injector pulse, but no spark, why would you even bother looking at the circuit opening relay? (Quite obviously spark related, Not fuel).

 

The dizzy has 2 purposes, to tell the injectors when to switch and to tell the ignitor when to fire the coil..

 

Put a test light on the negative side of the coil and see if the ignitor is even triggering the coil..

[dog179]

powers up at ciol and igniter but not dissy i have had the same problem since i started doesnt mater what i try?

[Medicine_Man]

You don't get a power feed at the dizzy, All you will be able to mesure there are A/C signals that the dizzy is sending to the computer via the 4 wires.

 

same with the wires between the ignitor and the ecu..

 

My guess is either the pickups inside the dizzy are open circuit or the wiring between the ECU and the dizzy has a break somewhere, could also be between the ignitor and ECU..

[dog179]

well i had some luck today as i had the day off today as it was laber day up here today so i spent a bit more time running over things in the light for a change.lol.any way checking every thing again with the multimetre can't seem to see any thing wrong till i get to the dizzy then theres nothing ok pop the cap and roter of to check the stater to pick up gap out and i just happened to see a whole heap of bare wire tangled around the dizzy shaft so the sensors are stuffed in the dizzy.so ive ordered anouther 1 but its coming from down south.so hopefully i have it in the next couple of days and then i can let you all know if its fixed at long last.....but in the mean time thank you every 1 that has helped with there advice.

[Medicine_Man]

winner :)