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Posted

..oh yeah, the front brakes hadn't been used for a loooong time, discs covered in rust etc and it locked the rears under brakes. They should get better with use and maybe a bit of bleeding, yes? Or will I have to get a brake bias valve? (TE71 front brakes, AE71 rears)

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Posted

See how your brakes go with a little bit of driving. Might wanna put a new set of shoes/pads and some new fluid through, as it can absorb moisture and give you a spongey pedal.

 

Does the MT4 have any sort of ignition control? Cause your best option would be ECU controlled retarding.

Alternatively lock up the dizzy and run about 20-25* advance at idle. Not ideal but better than BHG's!! :wink:

Posted

All is not well, surprise, surprise, I think I am having fuel supply problems. Gonna have to get that surge tank and lift pump afterall... Drivetrain is whining like an unpaid prostitute too, will have to re-check oil levels. Car is registered and has a nice 2 1/2 inch exhaust fitted.

Posted

IIHO a fuel pressure guage in the engine bay is worth its weight in gold for something like that.

You can get them from Bursons for like $25, aswell as a $5 brass t-piece to screw it into (or into the side of your malpassi if you have one) and you're set. :wink:

Posted
IIHO a fuel pressure guage in the engine bay is worth its weight in gold for something like that.

You can get them from Bursons for like $25, aswell as a $5 brass t-piece to screw it into (or into the side of your malpassi if you have one) and you're set. :wink:

Yeah, I will get one one day. I am thinking "No more bodging" LOL, do things the right way and things will work out. Plan is to set the fuel system up properly, check the injectors, check all the oil levels and drive it to Jonny and get him to at least check that the mixtures are in the ballpark. (he has a wide-band AFR) If they are way out, I'll have to borrow a hand piece or laptop with Microtech software installed and get Jonny to tune it.

Posted

Thankfully my family has lent me a car to get to work, so now I am not running around like a headless chicken trying to get the thing going. Now I can take my time and make sure everythings 100% before driving it again, who knows, I might actually enjoy working on it again, rather than stressing, cursing, swearing etc. LOL

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Fitted surge tank, lift pump and pipes today. The Facet lift pump doesn't seem to want to draw fuel, will it need to be primed to work? Cheers, Mark

Posted (edited)

Needed priming, surge tank is now full of nice, cold fuel and its running again. Haven't test driven yet, but at least I have "done it properly" now, so if I still have issues I can rule out the fuelling system. (Apart from possible injector blockages). I am running a VN Commonwhore in-line fuel filter, fitted just before the lift pump.

Edited by machg
Posted

Hallelujah! As a last roll of the dice, I pulled out the injectors to check for blockages (they run a small mesh filter in the top of them) and two of them were badly blocked. Cleaned them out, re-installed and hey presto, decent performance, AT LAST! That's the good news, some bad news was the smoke screen left coming off boost. The CT20 seems to boost fine, minimal shaft play etc. but I'm Umming and Arrring about whether to put a rebuild kit through it as it has a small crack in the exhaust housing (near the wastegate port). Anyone got a CT20 (or maybe CT26) that's in good nick and doesn't blow shitloads of smoke?

Posted (edited)

Got Jonny to come around today. We took it for a spin with his AFR attached, and as I reasoned/suspected (given its running a tune for a 3T and I'm running it on a 2T) mixtures were quite rich (under throttle 9s to 10s). Under cruise it wasn't too bad (13s). I also backed off the timing, it turns out I'd gone a bit too far, so Jonny set it to 12 degrees. Also installed some better struts; I had put the struts out of the TE71 in, but the shocks were stuffed and the discs heavily pitted; so I put the struts out of the T18 on instead; newish rotors, OK shocks and Makita superlows, :P

We tried hooking up his laptop, but it wouldn't read the MT4, so we reckon it must be a handset programmable unit. Jonny is going to borrow one off one of his mates, then we'll give it a tune and it should go really nice. I am waiting on a response from a US company for a rebuild kit for the CT20 for $54. Also bogged over the guards, so its all happening.

Edited by machg
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

You do realise that re-building a turbo isn't just a matter of whacking in the new seals and bolt it back together?

It needs to be professionally balanced.

Posted
You do realise that re-building a turbo isn't just a matter of whacking in the new seals and bolt it back together?

It needs to be professionally balanced.

It depends who you talk to. I have spoken to someone fairly experienced with turbos (I am not going to say who in case the thing lunches itself) and he seems to think that with careful re-assembly the turbo should remain fairly well balanced. I have completed re-assembly with most of the new parts (my turbo had some different components on the compressor side to what was supplied in the kit) and will re-install next weekend. If it lunches itself in short order, you may have the honour of saying the first "I told you so" LOL.

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