rjenman Posted June 13, 2009 Report Posted June 13, 2009 so do you like enslaving african americans and losing wars? whats with the flag in the last photo of your second post? Quote
David[RL] Posted June 13, 2009 Author Report Posted June 13, 2009 so do you like enslaving african americans and losing wars? whats with the flag in the last photo of your second post? sure why not? lol no that flag is not mine, it's some other guy that has a fetish for american cars Quote
David[RL] Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Posted June 30, 2009 picture of the fibreglass hood, right out of the mold, just fastly cut around the edges, need a proper trim this is the second hood I made, ended up at 4.5kg because I needed some more reinforcements when using only 4 hood pins to avoid it lifting at the front in high speed the rules says I need to use 5 hood pins,but nobody never complains as long as it's not lifting.. it looks stupid with 5 pins with this front end some 4A-GE engines for various projects Quote
gooza Posted June 30, 2009 Report Posted June 30, 2009 just a couple of 4a-ge's lying around haha, nice build so far dude. coupe's look so tough Quote
silbastian Posted August 11, 2009 Report Posted August 11, 2009 nice job so far, i will keep on watching ... have fun! lol :P Quote
ANK Posted August 12, 2009 Report Posted August 12, 2009 hey mate did you do the bonnet your self if so could you pm me some details on how to do it as i need to do my bonnet and boot for my race car Quote
David[RL] Posted August 12, 2009 Author Report Posted August 12, 2009 (edited) hey thanks for the feedback, I haven't done much to this car lately since I'm building a ke70 wagon into a drift machine changing from rear leaf springs to 4link with panhard rod and coilovers on an AE86 T series axle front suspension is AE86 coilovers and brakes, ps knuckles, camber plates, roll center adjusters, custom inner tie rods that's machined down 5mm on a lathe (much better than adding spacers because the way I'm doing it won't mess up bump steer) running a stock 4A-GE 16v engine and T50 gearbox there is many ways of making fiberglass parts I can only tell you what I did first you must have a perfectly good hood with no dents or rust then you need to buy polyester and hardener, gelcoat and hardener, fiberglass matt ( I used 300g/m2 ) expect use 10 liter polyester and 20/m2 fiberglass matt for the mold and 1 final product wax for molding ( the product I use is named norpool wax 75W) and nonslip liquid ( norpool nonslip) a metal roller, various painting equipment, ++ I polish the hood that is already in a perfect overrated condition with autoglym 3-4 times to get low friction then I wax the hood 3-4 times with norpool wax, and you must wait between layers when that is finished you apply nonslip liquid and let it dry completely then you mix gelcoat with hardener and paint the entire hood and wait untill the next day so it's dry I would lightly sand the gelcoat the next day so you when you put on polyester it will attach to the surface mix the polyester with 2% hardener or whatever is written on the box paint the hood and put on 1 layer of fiberglass matt then add some more polyester and roll out all air bubbles since this is your first layer it's very important it is perfect else the mold will look crap wait until the next day or atleast 12 hours and then repeat the progress after the first layer you can add upto 3 layers each day, but you must add 1 at a time, if you do more than 3 maybe 4 layers it might get too hot and the mould can warp I would use minimum 7 layers on the mold of the hood, you should also add some reinforcements, rope is good and when soaked with polyester the rope will be very stiff you should also add some layers of fiberglass matt over the rope to get it even stiffer, I say minimum 3 layer over the rope when that is done wait minimum 24 hours after the final layer is done and you finished the mold, you can now remove it from the hood, I find that air compressor gun is very nice if you did rush the waxing you might have a big problem removing the mold.. wash the mold with water after it's removed and trim the edges, if some areas is not perfect do the repair now! repeat the progress to make a final product: wax the mold 3-4 times, add nonslip liquid, add 1 layer gelcoat, wait, add 1 layer fiberglass wait, add 3 layers fiberglass, finished I use total 4 layer fibreglass on the hood for a racecar, you might want to add a rope in the front for reinforcement, if you use 5 hood locks it might not be neccesary, depends on how stiff you need it too be 4 layers + rope in the front + 3 layers outside the rope = approx 4.5kg for the trunk I use total 3 layers without reinforcement, for front fenders I would use 3 or 4 layers if you use too much polyester the product will be weakened, if you use to little it will be air bubbles and crap do not mix too much hardener it will harden too fast! I find it better to use alittle less it's a good idea to be 2 people when you've never worked with this before.. wear a protective mask or you will feel funny after a while breathing the polyester also wear gloves because polyester is not nice for the skin and it's very messy to wash off expect that your first product will be scrapped if you can buy a fiberglass hood elsewhere I suggest you do it, you won't save money on making a mold only to make 1 hood Edited August 13, 2009 by David Quote
Bowler Posted August 13, 2009 Report Posted August 13, 2009 Fantastic technical write-up. That should almost make it into the technical section. Cheers Quote
David[RL] Posted August 25, 2009 Author Report Posted August 25, 2009 Fantastic technical write-up. That should almost make it into the technical section. Cheers sure if anyone wants to correct my grammar and put it in a technical section you're more than welcome I'm not from this country so if I have to write it better myself it would have to be in Norwegian, let's see if you can read that? :P since I've not done any progress on this car I can post a picture or two of my dorifto ke70 :( 4link with panhard rod is finished, stock 16v 4age all pillowballs on the 4link, panhard rod is stock bushings since I didn't have enough pillow balls alittle noisy for daily driving but hey it's perfect for track, way better than leaf springs :sob: coilovers at rear and coilovers at front, machined inner tie rods 5mm each side and ae86 ps knuckles got my helmet airbrushed: Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted August 26, 2009 Report Posted August 26, 2009 Drift wagon looks cool. :P Quote
LukeAE71 Posted August 26, 2009 Report Posted August 26, 2009 sure if anyone wants to correct my grammar and put it in a technical section you're more than welcomeI'm not from this country so if I have to write it better myself it would have to be in Norwegian, let's see if you can read that? :( Your grammar is fine in fact it's better than some people actually with English as a first language. I love your drift wagon, your skills for fabricating are excellent. Do you want to come to Australia and build some Corolla's for us?? :P Quote
rolledup Posted October 16, 2009 Report Posted October 16, 2009 Drift wagons gangster ahah :jamie: Quote
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