20 Valve Into Ae71/ae86/ke70

[LittleRedSpirit]

Engine/cooling/mounting and clutch Parts required

 

4age 20v engine

filter socks

yager motorsport front thermostat fitting

modified rear cooling plate

side water blockoff plate

aftermarket engine computer

dizzy cover

AE86/71 clutch master cylinder

 

AE71 manual pedal assembly if you have a ke70

Slave cylinder to suit the gearbox either jdm or adm

4age flywheel, 200mm or 212mm

Clutch to suit, yes you can use the ae101 or ae111 clutch with 212mm flywheel

rwd exhaust manifold/extractors

coil and igniter, for wasted spark and custom leads

or 1zzfe cop setup with inbuilt igniters

AE86/AE71 engine mounts - steel and rubber sections.

AE86/71 Engine crossmember

AE71 manual gearbox crossmember for ke70 with AE71/AE86 rubber mount

AE86 manual gearbox crossmember for AE86 with AE71/AE86 rubber mount

AE71 manual tailshaft for borgwarner diff ke70/AE71/AE86

AE86 manual tailshaft for T series diff AE71/AE86/KE70

ADM AE86 tailshaft for S Series diff AE71/KE70/AE86

AE86AE71 Bellhousing braces

KE70 throttle cable

AE86/AE71 Starter motor

AE86/AE71 sandwhich plate

ADM or JDM T50 gearbox with AE86 or AE71 bellhousing

vacuum hose

efi fuel hose

z386 oil filter and oil

 

 

Prepare car by:

 

Fitting efi fuel system

Upgrading hoses to high pressure efi hoses

fit engine crossmember if not already fitted

fit hydraulic clutch setup if not already in the car, this may also include a pedal assembly from an ae71 if you own a ke70.

 

Prepare motor by:

 

Remove all the fwd related accessories, which is basically everything including the water fittings. You will end up with a pile like this:

Fit a fresh water pump, seals, timing belt and tensioner.

Remove the sump and de sludge, import motors will usually have a lot of crud in the sump

clean the oil pickup and re seal the sump and pickup

This is the cleanest of the import motors I had...

remove the throttles and manifold to clean all the vacuum ports, marvel at the gunk that comes out, then refit.

clean fuel injectors

With blacktop throttles You can remove the vacuum line and fuel line array under the throttles, but leave all the struts supporting the throttles in place.

Close the front vacuum hose connection with a bolt and alloy sealing washer, Effectively removing the connection.

Fit spigot bearing to the crank.

fit sandwich plate flywheel and align the clutch.

fit the engine mounts to the motor. The alternator mount uses three bolts to the motor, one of which interferes with a rwd engine mount.

This overcome by cutting the third bolt hole off the alternator mount. The alternator mount is a massive unit and this will not affect its strength.

Fit the water fittings.

- for the front of the motor, I'd recommend the Yager motor sport thermostat fitting. I had to do a bit of filing and grinding to get my Yager fitting to fit perfectly, around its top edge near the throttles. Bear in mind I had Blacktop throttles from an AE111 motor, so if you have the AE101 throttles, you should only do what you have to around the throttles, and I'm unsure what that is exactly. I had to remove the vacuum hose array with the fuel return in it, to fit the thermostat fitting.

I just fitted a longer rubber section of efi hose instead for the fuel return. The front vacuum port can be closed off as you only need the rear one for the brake booster. The little valve hooked up to the throttle perch should stay there, so you will need to extend its hose and ensure it stays connected or you will idle high and uneven. Once installed, the fitting should look like this:

 

You will also need to shave a few mm off of the alternator adjusting perch with a grinder, as the hose needs a mm or 3 to fit past it there. Thats about a 10 minute job.

 

If you have the Yager fitting and need a new thermostat housing, its from a Mitsubishi Nimbus and is available over the counter at any Repco or Super Cheap etc.

 

This removes the cooling system bypass and places the thermostat at the front of the head, connected to the top radiator hose. Its much easier to work on here and is a good place to have it, in my opinion.

You then connect the water pump to the bottom radiator hose.

 

- for the port behind the exhaust, just make a blanking off plate out of aluminium and seal it on with bluemaxx sealant.

- for the rear of the motor, you can get some very thick aluminium plate cut and grooved, drilled and tapped to make a plate.

Or you can modify the factory thermostat fitting and retain all the original sensor positions. Ive also heard that people just plate it off after machining a channel between the two ports. You need to insert a temp sensor or two there, also, so if you plate it you still have to drill and tap some holes in your blockoff plate, usually at least 2.

 

 

Fitting, clearances, and special considerations.

- If using an ADM T50 with the clutch slave cylinder on the passenger side, you may need a custom right angle fitting for the rubber hose connection to the slave. The Exhaust will come very close to it.

- If you plan to run velocity stacks, you can only fit around 60mm stacks in the engine bay and still clear the brake booster.

- Open throttles suck lots of hot air, so some sort of tray or cold air induction, or airbox is a good idea.

- Id advise fitting a big thermofan, although the standard radiator from an AE71 or AE86 is fine to cool a 20valve.

- You should fit an uprated battery to give more CCA.

- Connect the factory purge solenoid to a switch or control it with your ecu.

- Obviously the dizzy hits the firewall if left alone. Therefore you remove the cap and rotor button but leave the rest alone. Your ecu can use this to calculate ignition timing by itself. There are covers available from a few select places like the one in my pictures, which came from kaizen garage.

 

Yager Contact Info:

Yager Performance

Motor Engineers & Repairers

97 Northcott Crs

Alstonville

NSW, 2477

Australia

Contact Details

Ph:(02) 6624 0247

 

Kaizen Garage Contact Info:

Unknown at this time.

Edited April 15, 2009 by LittleRedSpirit

[Sam_Q]

if you don't mind me asking what do the Yager front outlet pipes sell for?

 

also what do you think the effects of not having a bypass in the system are?

[LittleRedSpirit]

if you don't mind me asking what do the Yager front outlet pipes sell for?

 

also what do you think the effects of not having a bypass in the system are?

 

 

Bypasses were only really brought about to warm motors up faster to reduce the rich cold running time at the start. Its more of an emissions idea than to smooth out any coolant flow, etc. Ive discussed it at length with my mechanic and he agrees its no problem. Bypasses weren't really the standard thing on a lot of older cars. There is no problem with cooling system pressure as the waterpump can only build pressure to a certain point, at which point it can back flow. The only precaution I used to take was making sure it was warm before I revved it out, which you should do anyhow.

 

I think the Yager fitting costs around $150. They are out of stock at this time, but getting more soon. I was lucky enough to get mine from ebay for $100 shipped or so.

[LukeAE71]

Matt this is a freaking awesome write up.

 

Yager now have the thermostat pipes in stock again, $155 plus post. Mine should be arriving in a few days.

 

Thanks for the write up Matt, I will be referring to this for a few extra tips as mine is almost complete now.

 

EDIT: Another way to get around the alternator mount fouling on the engine mount is to use washers under the bolt holes for the alternator mounts. This spaces the alternator far enough away so that it will slip over the engine mount. I used five flat washers under each of the alternator bolt holes then used a slightly longer bolt to go through the engine mount bolt hole. Worked a treat and no cutting required of the alternator bracket.

 

It will obviously push your alternator further out at the bottom requiring some adjustment on the belt tension.

Edited April 15, 2009 by LukeAE71

[LittleRedSpirit]

More info and images added, will be constantly updated.

 

Luke, If I did the 'washers pack out' trick then I'd have issues with my big ass intake tray fouling the terminal on the alternator cable. I have the idler pulley removed and I run a tiny little belt down there to save space.

[beerhead]

I've done this in the past on my old 20V. It works, but the arc that the lock bolt for the alternator slides in doesn't align very well.

 

 

Matt this is a freaking awesome write up.

 

Yager now have the thermostat pipes in stock again, $155 plus post. Mine should be arriving in a few days.

 

Thanks for the write up Matt, I will be referring to this for a few extra tips as mine is almost complete now.

 

EDIT: Another way to get around the alternator mount fouling on the engine mount is to use washers under the bolt holes for the alternator mounts. This spaces the alternator far enough away so that it will slip over the engine mount. I used five flat washers under each of the alternator bolt holes then used a slightly longer bolt to go through the engine mount bolt hole. Worked a treat and no cutting required of the alternator bracket.

 

It will obviously push your alternator further out at the bottom requiring some adjustment on the belt tension.

[Sam_Q]

a bit of an update I decided it would be worthwhile to make a top outlet that also has a thermostat in it. It's not what I would use personally but I make whatever is wanted. I admit this is crude but very cheap:

 

 

This is my prototype however I have a pile of final version plates just about ready. All it is is an adapter plate, it uses a non bypass corolla thermostat and a 4ac inlet pipe with one hole drilled out out to 8mm from its original 6.5mm. I am thinking a price of $40 each adapter plate.

 

What do you guys honestly think? Resourceful or just a pile of stinking crap?

 

I also am in the process of machining up some exhuast side alterntor mounts that hold the pivot for the alterntor inline with the top of the sump, ie: seriously low.

 

Seeing I now officially have my own buisness I would like to hear what people want made? what do you guys think there should be in the marketplace?

[Sam_Q]

I forgot to add the left hand side outlet bolt is not in place and the right side stud would need to be wound out and replace with something longer which I will likely supply

Edited August 22, 2009 by Sam_Q

[Rolliac]

Sam Q you are the man. You should make like a package, 20v into Ke70/ae71/ae86. Or do you already have one? I’ll buy it for sure.

 

And optional extras like dizzy relocate and ya coil thingy.

 

LittleRed too you guys have done the hard yards. Making my life easer.

 

Thanks.

[LittleRedSpirit]

My honest opinion, it does look a bit dodgy compared to the Yager fitting, but if it works, it works. If it sells for 50 bucks I'm sure plenty of people would grab one, just because its 1/3 the price, and it looks like it would work fine.

[Sam_Q]

yes its dodgy and pretty rough but as you said the price is right. I have learnt that in the AE/KE community something thats basic and cheap is usually more wanted than something nicely made but a bit pricey.

 

Rolliac: I don't sell a dizzy relocation kit, I made one and it was too much of a hastle. Add to this the fact that the standard 20v ecu really is crap in my eyes and I am not too motivated to make more. I know this goes against what i said above though. As for the rest I can supply you with just about everything you will need. Just shoot me a PM or something and I can explain what I offer, or ask on here I don't mind either way.

[Rolliac]

yes its dodgy and pretty rough but as you said the price is right. I have learnt that in the AE/KE community something thats basic and cheap is usually more wanted than something nicely made but a bit pricey.

 

Rolliac: I don't sell a dizzy relocation kit, I made one and it was too much of a hastle. Add to this the fact that the standard 20v ecu really is crap in my eyes and I am not too motivated to make more. I know this goes against what i said above though. As for the rest I can supply you with just about everything you will need. Just shoot me a PM or something and I can explain what I offer, or ask on here I don't mind either way.

 

Do you have a web site or thread somewhere? I’m very interested to see a list of your products.

[Sam_Q]

Do you have a web site or thread somewhere? I’m very interested to see a list of your products.

 

EDIT: my new webapge is here

 

 

s-86.com

Edited September 1, 2009 by Sam_Q

[`Harlzz]

Hey,

 

I'm new to the forums and just wondering how much time and money is needed to get a 20v 4age into a ke70 from start to finish. I've always like the looks of ke70s and recently thinking of purchasing one and doing the 20v conversion.

 

EDIT: Also is there anywhere you can buy a full conversion kit with the 20v ready to drop in?

 

 

Thanks.

Edited March 20, 2010 by `Harlzz

[Sam_Q]

thats too vauge a question. The right way to go is with an aftermarket ecu but that's not cheap. There is one with one already in south Australia thats real cheap right now if anyones on the lookout.

 

There is no one single universal kit as such, just combinations of parts available. I have the three main parts for the cooling system, the RWD clutch line, spigot bearings but nothing for the intake