styler Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 (edited) maybe if i just run some 13 x 10 on back with some 195's it will give it that jap look? Time to cut the shit out of the guards! doing this is not a good idea for many reasons: it will look silly without some sort of widebody fabrication it needs massive flares you will have to fabricate rear wheel well will most likely rub pending offset not legal due to track increase rare and expensive tyres (if correct fitament) stupid, illegal, if not impossible with stretched 195's super heavy steering offset on rim outer lip to outer lip would be like -40 on a 10 inch rim with 100mm backspace but hey you will beat 5k power on downhills when you aqua plane :wink: and you might propel those massive wheels forwards if you are lucky with the wind behind you! if it was a proper race car like ke25 racers build it would be great for the track, but thats quite a car check it out... Ke20 Race Car for sale 4age 20v silvertop 200HP+ Ke20 Race car, Eligable for Sport Sedan (under 2lt) or SuperTT (AMRC) Fresh 4age 20v Silvertop Yager Performance Engine, Motec M4 ECU, custom exhaust and inlet. - Spare 20v engine - Rebuilt alternator and starter -Rebuilt W58, plus another spare w58 box. -T series JDM disc brake diff with Overhauled Calipers and new discs and race pads(80% left) -4.11 and 3.9 locked diff centres and spare axles and spare diff housing -Overhauled Mazda RX7 alloy 4 spot front calipers with New Levin Discs and Ferodo pads (80%) -Coilover front struts -4 of 13x10 alloy 3 piece rims with New Dunlop Slick Tyres -8 of 13x8 Superlite rims with Near New Slicks and Wet Tyres Fitted -Spare Slick tyres not mounted -Sparco Touring (V8 supercar) seat - 5 point Harness (valid till 2011) - Alloy Cage (Cams Log Booked) - Super Lite Shell with Fibreglass Bumpers, bootlid, bonnet and front splitter (all with moulds) - Longacre Race Rearview mirror - XT Racing Lap Timer and Transmitor plus PC software - Fuel Cell with new foam, New Holley blue Fuel pump, Bosch Motorsport Pressure Pump - Front and rear adjustable Sway Bars - Koni adjustable Shocks front and rear - Perspex windows all round with lexan front screen - Cams and ASSA log books - Autometer Gauges - Alloy Rear Wing - Huge Gaurd Flares - Plenty more to list -Comprehensive Spares Package Car Just Competed at Wakefield Park in Round 1 of SuperTT (29 Feb- 2 March), Front Running car! Coverage of the event will be on Fox Sports over the next few weeks. I'm not saying don't do it, id be amused if you did... only i think you would regret it afterwards. Edited March 31, 2009 by styler Quote
RA28GT Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Posted March 31, 2009 I know that was me being an idiot, I'm thinking while running the standard diff and 5k maybe 8's would be max on the rear. I was planning the flare the guards quite considerably, and as far as legality was concerned it wasn't coming into consideration, my pipes hanging 20cm our the rear of the car stand out more at the moment. As far as stretch goes most i would realistically run is 195 on an 8" rim so not overly noticeable and not completely nuts. Although benzo has got me into not cutting up the guards now, maybe a set of 13x7 all round would look better. I'm thinking the rear would still have to be pumped a little but nothing too dramatic. Also its more realistic considering my drive train at the moment, and they still look hot, nick super lights have a fair chunk of dish thats for sure. doing this is not a good idea for many reasons: it will look silly without some sort of widebody fabrication it needs massive flares you will have to fabricate rear wheel well will most likely rub pending offset not legal due to track increase rare and expensive tyres (if correct fitament) stupid, illegal, if not impossible with stretched 195's super heavy steering offset on rim outer lip to outer lip would be like -40 on a 10 inch rim with 100mm backspace but hey you will beat 5k power on downhills when you aqua plane :wink: and you might propel those massive wheels forwards if you are lucky with the wind behind you! if it was a proper race car like ke25 racers build it would be great for the track, but thats quite a car check it out... Ke20 Race Car for sale 4age 20v silvertop 200HP+ Ke20 Race car, Eligable for Sport Sedan (under 2lt) or SuperTT (AMRC) Fresh 4age 20v Silvertop Yager Performance Engine, Motec M4 ECU, custom exhaust and inlet. - Spare 20v engine - Rebuilt alternator and starter -Rebuilt W58, plus another spare w58 box. -T series JDM disc brake diff with Overhauled Calipers and new discs and race pads(80% left) -4.11 and 3.9 locked diff centres and spare axles and spare diff housing -Overhauled Mazda RX7 alloy 4 spot front calipers with New Levin Discs and Ferodo pads (80%) -Coilover front struts -4 of 13x10 alloy 3 piece rims with New Dunlop Slick Tyres -8 of 13x8 Superlite rims with Near New Slicks and Wet Tyres Fitted -Spare Slick tyres not mounted -Sparco Touring (V8 supercar) seat - 5 point Harness (valid till 2011) - Alloy Cage (Cams Log Booked) - Super Lite Shell with Fibreglass Bumpers, bootlid, bonnet and front splitter (all with moulds) - Longacre Race Rearview mirror - XT Racing Lap Timer and Transmitor plus PC software - Fuel Cell with new foam, New Holley blue Fuel pump, Bosch Motorsport Pressure Pump - Front and rear adjustable Sway Bars - Koni adjustable Shocks front and rear - Perspex windows all round with lexan front screen - Cams and ASSA log books - Autometer Gauges - Alloy Rear Wing - Huge Gaurd Flares - Plenty more to list -Comprehensive Spares Package Car Just Competed at Wakefield Park in Round 1 of SuperTT (29 Feb- 2 March), Front Running car! Coverage of the event will be on Fox Sports over the next few weeks. I'm not saying don't do it, id be amused if you did... only i think you would regret it afterwards. Quote
RA28GT Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Posted March 31, 2009 This is the look i was thinking of, i wanted the ke20 version of this: Quote
LukeAE71 Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 If you think Nicks superlites have dish, wait til you see them in 13 x 8!!!!! I also have a contact that can get Superlites pretty cheap for cash deals so let me know if you end up choosing them. Quote
nickyboy Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 its a 4 door i know, but you get the idea, lowered it would be sweet. maybe a very slight flare on the stock guard. Quote
styler Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 yeah 7 or 8 inch wide rims definitely a better idea if dish is your thing :wink: also just so you know with rims its measured from the tyre bead area, ie from inner bead lip to inner bead lip. and the actual rim width is usually 1 inch wider due to the bead being about 1/2 inch thick on either side for alloy rims, ie the measurement from outer bead lip to outer bead lip. so a 8 inch rim actually measures 9 inch in material from on side to the other. so the point is just make sure tyres and rim have enough backspace to clear the insides of the car, about 100mm will leave about 10mm wheel to strut which is about factory. measure rims with a tape from outer bead to outer bead or add 25mm (approx 1 inch) to advertised width. measure tyres at their widest point which may be sidewalls or the top or use advertised width. use metric when measuring (metric mm = inch x 25.4mm) if the rim is on the tyre put a straightedge across the tyre on the hub side of the wheel and measure from the bottom of the straightedge to the rim mounting face (still on hub side of wheel). if the rims are wider than the tyres then check the rim backspace (unusual/stretched) if the tyres are wider than the rims then check tyre backspace (usual) (obviously the widest one will hit first generally speaking so yeah...) now there are some complications, if you go a bigger rolling diameter on the tyre it makes it taller and can hit the bottom strut spring perch. also tyres tend to curve, ie they arent square edged from side to the top which can give a bit of clearance to the bottom strut spring perch. and tyres look at a tyre sizing chart for range of widths / profiles that suit. and i think thats all i have for now.... Quote
styler Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 go to google images and type in te27 for rims and flare combinations Quote
son of stig Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 you can find anything if you look hard enough... i got a set of 14x9s and 14x10s in 4x110 for my widebody series 2 rx7. Quote
13BT_KE20 Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 goodluck fitting anything wider than a 7.5-8 inch rim inside a stock gaurd, I'm running 7's on the back, outer guard lip clearance is minimal (just enough so that it doesnt scrub) and ive got about an inch of clearance on the inner gaurds/leaf spring. All ive doen is roll the lip of the rear guards 7's front and 8's rear will fit with the right offset and minor rolling/flaring of the guards Quote
benzo Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 Although benzo has got me into not cutting up the guards now, maybe a set of 13x7 all round would look better. I'm thinking the rear would still have to be pumped a little but nothing too dramatic. Also its more realistic considering my drive train at the moment, and they still look hot, nick super lights have a fair chunk of dish thats for sure. Glad I conviced you to not cut up your guards. Mine is just a 2-speed auto 3K lol so its no rocket, I just want something tidy I can cruise around in when its done and hopefully not get defected I love my watanabes, got some 14x8s for my ke70 and hopefully 13x7s for my ke20 soon Cheers, Ben. Quote
RA28GT Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Posted March 31, 2009 I just got in touch with my tyre guy, theres no price difference between 13" and 14" so I'm thinking possibly 14" superlights. Only thing is that they come in a negative 7 offset instead of 0. How would i go running 14x7 -7 on the rear? Assuming i fitted some stretched tyres such as 175's possibly? Also how would the front go? possibly have to op for 14x6 -7's? Thanks for your help guys, thanks styler for the technicial information too! Troy Quote
LukeAE71 Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 I just got in touch with my tyre guy, theres no price difference between 13" and 14" so I'm thinking possibly 14" superlights. Only thing is that they come in a negative 7 offset instead of 0. How would i go running 14x7 -7 on the rear? Assuming i fitted some stretched tyres such as 175's possibly? Also how would the front go? possibly have to op for 14x6 -7's? Thanks for your help guys, thanks styler for the technicial information too! Troy Like I said in my PM if you can give me your current offsets and widths I can tell you what they will sit like. Quote
RA28GT Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Posted March 31, 2009 Like I said in my PM if you can give me your current offsets and widths I can tell you what they will sit like. Ill measure my wheels tomorrow! Thanks man! Quote
flat out Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 pics of said 14x7 superlights, i run 13x8 allround 175 70 rear and 205 60 front, rears look sweet, sits inside the guards without my 25mm bolt ons :wink: Quote
KEhendo Posted March 31, 2009 Report Posted March 31, 2009 i went through this problem when getting bigger wheels for my 20. if you look on ebay/tradingpost ect. keep in mind other cars with this pcd, ie all the mazda rx2,3 and 4 and also the first 3 generations of rx7s. have a look at ausrotary because there is always a set of simmonds(spelling?) for sale in some kind of staggered fitment. Quote
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