Car Acts As If Has Dead Battery, With Charged Battery

[Taz_Rx]

haha yeah K's will run with the timing anywhere between say -10o and +40 odd like you said. Weather they start or not is another story. Get it hot though and it won't be so bad.

[slapper]

so ... any news? :wink:

[cuzzo]

No hard to rip out starter. jack her up, unbolt it, (make sure batt cables are removed already)

 

Rip it out and test the starter motor with jumper cables to the battery. You will only need to touch it on the +ve (with the -ve earthing the starter) and see if its engaging and spinning at normal speed.

 

If yes then put it back in and continue looking.

Edited February 17, 2009 by cuzzo

[LittleRedSpirit]

No hard to rip out starter. jack her up, unbolt it, (make sure batt cables are removed already)

 

Rip it out and test the starter motor with jumper cables to the battery. You will only need to touch it on the +ve (with the -ve earthing the starter) and see if its engaging and spinning at normal speed.

 

If yes then put it back in and continue looking.

 

 

9 times out of ten its a loose ground cable. Remove all the grounds from the chassis rails, clean them, sand where they touch back to bare metal and tighten the bolts up really well. You can add an extra cable too, if need be.

 

Mine had a big problem with this for a short while, would start sometimes, not others. Always would roll start, though.

 

When you turn the key I'm assuming you hear the starter solenoid fire (click), but there isn't enough juice coming through to turn it over?

 

Mine felt tight when I shook the cables but when I removed the main one there was a black spot of burnt metal where the thing was arcing a mm to start on the chassis rail. Look for little spots that look like welds to see if this is happening, and good luck.

 

It could be timing, but if its not turning over at all its probably grounds. Put a multimeter on the starter terminal and see what it reads when you turn the key. Under about 9 volts it probably wont turn over, depending on which motor you have.

[p0rt]

Sorry guys thought i updated the thread.

After double checking everything i had new starter motor fitted, the old one came out *in 2 pieces*

 

Issue sorted, still getting mildly warm if u keep it up around 100kph, think radiator now needs a treatment to clear away any gunky bits that have formed in the gills

 

So ive now

Replaced headgasket

Adjusted tappets

Installed new points

Repaired blinks

Repaired starter motor

Sorted out why I'm losing dash lights, and parker lights is simply a loose connection(yet to solve fully)

Now to do this radiator so the car runs sweet and cool.

 

Also just discovered my heater lines are cut and blocked off. so soon will be sourcing new heater hoses.

And still need a CD player installed.

 

So far spent in excess of $700 on various repairs and parts and labour.

 

Almost there!!! :bash:

[Croc]

You may find that you heater hoses are blocked off for a reason. Most likely your heater core has a hole and leaks inside your car.

[p0rt]

You may find that you heater hoses are blocked off for a reason. Most likely your heater core has a hole and leaks inside your car.

 

Yeah I'm suspect on that being the case, had it happen in a number of holden geminis that ive owned.

Might just leave it for new owner to tackle, Radiator is being treated currently, seems to be holding up well now!

 

I'm going to get my mechie to do timing and then up for sale we go!

 

Just need to add together my total spendings and determine a price. :bash:

(and now discovered highbeams don't work,I'll fix that too!)

Edited February 18, 2009 by p0rt

[Hiro Protagonist]

Good way to find out if you have a major leak in the heater core is to give it a good hard flush with a hose, making sure there's a good seal so you can build up pressure. That way, if there is a leak it's cool tap water, not hot coolant that dumps into your passenger footwell.

 

Then again, some heater cores only leak when hot coolant under pressure flows through them, which is why it is better (but more expensive) to get it pressure tested at a radiator/cooling place.