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Posted

cut and reweld the inlet manifold, id model the repositioning on an early RWD 4age manifold.

 

do the 20v style distributor conversion cut n shut.

 

run coil packs and a aftermarket computer, unless you want to cut a hole in the fire wall so you can run complete setup without separting.

Posted
cut and reweld the inlet manifold, id model the repositioning on an early RWD 4age manifold.

 

do the 20v style distributor conversion cut n shut.

 

run coil packs and a aftermarket computer, unless you want to cut a hole in the fire wall so you can run complete setup without separting.

ok cool and if i put this motor in will i have to get bigger diff

Posted

id say check out more common and better motor conversions...

a 4afe conversion isnt common or much of an upgrade, at least

you wont have to upgrade the driveline but its a waste of resources

in my opinion - try another motor!

Posted

as the wiki says:

 

4A-FE

1st generation 4A-FE engine.

2nd generation 4A-FE engine.

4A-FE engine sticker.

 

The 1987–1998 4A-FE is the descendant of the carbureted 4A-F. This version, although from the same series and the same generation as the 4A-GE, is different from its "brother" in terms of performance and power. Although both have the same displacement and are DOHC, they were optimized for different uses. The first obvious difference are the valves, the engine's intake and exhaust valves were placed 22.3° apart (compared to 50° in the G-Engines). The second is that it employed a "slave cam system", the camshafts being geared together and driven off one camshaft's sprocket (both camshafts' sprockets on the G-Engine are rotated by the timing belt). Some of the less directly visible differences were poorly shaped ports in the earlier versions, a slow burning combustion chamber with heavily shrouded valves, less aggressive camshaft profiles, ports of a small cross sectional area, a very restrictive intake manifold with long runners joined to a small displacement plenum and other changes. Even though the valve angle is closer to what is considered in some racing circles to be ideal for power (approximately 25 degrees), its other design differences and the intake which is tuned for a primary harmonic resonance at low revs means that it has about 20% less power compared to the 4A-GE. The plus side of this design is that it improved fuel efficiency and torque, the down side is that it compromises power. Power rating varies during certain generations that had the engine.

 

The difference between the two generations of this engine can be identified by the external shape of the engine, the first generation (1987–1993) have a more rugged look, a plate on the head which read "16valve EFI", and the fuel injectors in the head. The second generation had a higher profile cams design in the head, the cam cover having ribs throughout its length and the injectors in the intake manifold runners. The second generation engine was produced from 1992 until 1998.[1]

 

Toyota designed this engine with fuel economy in mind. The 4A-FE is basically the same as the 4A-F (introduced in the previous generation of Corollas), the most apparent difference being the fuel delivery system. The 4A-F used a carburetor, while the 4A-FE used electronic fuel injection system (notice the "E"). Also, the 4A-FE had extra power. The engine was succeeded by the 3ZZ-FE, a 1.6-liter engine with VVT-i technology.

 

yeah try search forums - rides sections and faq for better motors and engine conversion write ups.

Posted

Just curious but what kinda car are you doing the reasearch for ? and what will it be used for rally,race,street ?

 

Might be better off buying a whole car already done maybe ?

 

As for diff an AE86 disc LSD would probably handle 150 rwkw after that id be looking at spending alot more money for strength such as a hilux lsd type diff.

 

Id personally wouldnt mind messing about with a late 4afe but only if it were dirt cheap. Problem with the 4A family is you would be lucky to crack 280HP at the flywheel spending decent cash, NA of course. Then you would be looking at a turbo if you wanted to go beyond the 300HP then the strength and reliability of the 4A becomes questionable, maybe look into 3SGE for NA and SR20DET for turbo ?

 

All depends on the 1st question i personally never see myself going 4AGE and being happy with the torque hence why i don't mind messing with dirt cheap engines as i don't think its worth the money.

 

I might get laughed at for saying this but my 4AC in completely standard form still pushes through the hills no problems and have heard stories of other guys with 4AC's giving big port 4age's a run for their money. At the end of the day a 4A is just 1600cc and will only perform as much as your willing to open your wallet upto :y:

Posted

I'm looking at putting it in my ke20 that I'm rebuilding and i don't have that much money and that why ill be doing it over time like just get all the parts that i need over time than spend a week putting it together

Posted
I'm looking at putting it in my ke20 that I'm rebuilding and i don't have that much money and that why ill be doing it over time like just get all the parts that i need over time than spend a week putting it together

cool what kinda of performance are you looking at achieving ?

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