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Posted
it's all about the dangle lads one bloke swings one way (insert fiberglass) the other bloke swings the other way (insert bog) :y:

ive tried both its kinds kinky :S

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Posted
ive tried both its kinds kinky :S

 

 

yeh well u should leave it there :y:

 

it's just preference and what kind of job you want out of it

Posted

yea true with the paint thing

 

hey if those sized holes were in my wheel arches id get out the wire brush and go brap brap with the mig then get the sander then primer then paint

 

doen in about 10 mins :y:

Posted
AH Magic I wonder if they demonstrate fly wire for those big holes. :P

 

If it was sealed on the back it might last a while but probably not in a wheel arch.

 

 

I've seen chicken-wire used as a base for bogging up a rusted-out door sill before, and this was the method recommended in the book (Readers Digest Book Of The Car). The book is probably a good 20-30 years old though....

Posted

Bianca discovered why her doors are rusting out. because. there are holes in the metal trim on the top around the windows from mirrors. water goes straight in. after how many years. she works this out. lol.

Posted

hahaha

ummm chicken wire!!!!!!!

 

hmmmm :P i did this in my bottom rear drivers guard.

hole was bigger than my head!!!

the used fibreglass matting.

the stainless stell fibreglass then bog!

worked rust hasn't come back and its tuff as but i'm still gonna get rid of it and weld steel in!

Posted
Bianca discovered why her doors are rusting out. because. there are holes in the metal trim on the top around the windows from mirrors. water goes straight in. after how many years. she works this out. lol.

 

put a teas spoon full of automatic transmission fluid down there it has a capillary action and will coat the inside of the panel & prevent rust.a few days later fill the hole with sikaflex.

Posted
My KE10 has had newspaper stuffed in a rust hole under my battery tray and bogged over. I cringe to think about what else i'm going to find...

 

Worst story i've heard is a guy i used to work with wanted to sell his car. It had badly rusted out sills... So you went to the bakery, asked for all the old stail bread, stiffed it into the sills and bogged it up.

Some oor person bought that car.

 

Sometimes it what you can't find that can be a worry.

I once went to check out a Dtasun 1000 wagon. It looked a very shabby, f@$ked paint, shiity wheels, un matching seats, and a lean to one side... but try as i may i couldn't find any rust, not 1 bit.

Had me very worried as i was sure it had to have rust. Turns out it was very clean and rust free.

Posted
If you follow the advise in that video, you will only make matters worse.

 

Here's a few thing we need to consider:

- Unsealed metal will rust.

- Bog is porous

- Fibrefill is only a bog re-enforcer, it does not make bog water tight.

- The SYMPTOM was HIDEN, rust was not repaired.

 

You can still do a thorough rust patch-up without a welder.

1) remove ALL rust.. front and back and anywhere it may be hiding.

2) coat all bare metal with a good quility rust paint.

3) once dry, scuff area thoroughly

4) now patch as per video

 

OR

 

buy a propain tourch, some flux and some brass rods.

 

 

Before you walk off thinking your job is done, stop! Rust accured there for a reason, figure out why it rusted there then take action to revent it from accuring again.

Corollas ALL rust in the same places, they all have water issues, adress these issues and the rust is less liekly to return.

 

:P

 

Shows how much i know about body work.

Posted
Shows how much i know about body work.

 

There's nothing wrong with not knowing. No one is born with the knoledge.

 

The problem is videos like this making people believe thats the right way to do it.

 

Just be mindfull when buying a car, if they say they've repaired the rust, do they mean they've done it like this or properly.

 

:P

Posted

my dad always told me to tap the outside of the car in places i would have thought to have rust, if it sounds like metal then its fine but if not then there has obviously been some rust damage b4.

another couple of ways is to take a magnet with you, if it sticks then your fine but if not then its bog/fiberglass.

and look for slightly different coloured panels cause if they're not exactly the same then most likely its been in a prang of some sort.

Posted
my dad always told me to tap the outside of the car in places i would have thought to have rust, if it sounds like metal then its fine but if not then there has obviously been some rust damage b4.

another couple of ways is to take a magnet with you, if it sticks then your fine but if not then its bog/fiberglass.

and look for slightly different coloured panels cause if they're not exactly the same then most likely its been in a prang of some sort.

 

All good tips for finding a clean.

Be mindful, more often than not, bogged panels sound pretty much like clean panels. Unless you have a "good ear" tapping may only show up really bad work.

Some people also put iron filings in the bog to make it magnetic.

As you said, use your eyes. Look for inconsistancies, odd colours, also look at the the gaps. Use your hand. Tip: don't feel for imperfections, feeling for imperfections doesn't work very well, instead feel for a good panel, if its not good you'll notice.

 

looks like I need to do my 'repaired' panels again...

 

That the way.

If you love your Rolla, give it some prtection against the one thing that can kill a Toyota... RUST.

Some POR 15 and some cavity wax, and she'll be good to your for many years to come.

 

This is what serious vintage car collectors do to their cars. Best thing is its not exspensive.

 

:y:

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