Ke1x Whiteline Sway Bar Questions

[ScottKE1X]

You could also swap your struts left to right and vice versa which will put your brake calipers to the rear and away

from the sway bar, you will need new brake hoses though but at least you will always have brakes there

 

Wow, thats out there... There would have to be a reason that you couldnt do that, wouldnt there??

 

TOm

He must have a full ke20 xmember in or something. I'm not hugely familular with the ke2x but don't

they only have 2 bolt at the bottom of the strut as apposed to the ke1x having 3?

you would have to change the Ball joints, LCA's and Xmember as well.... then all the steering.

 

I think Sean (aka rollin_ stock) did something like this but with 280zx coilovers

 

Cheers

 

Scott.

[philbey]

If the ball joints were fairly similar you could possibly swap them and get the same result?

[camerondownunder88]

Hi,

I have seen a KE11 with KE20 struts the FULL strut in it before.

 

Used a KE1X cross member but how you do it is you make like a spacer thing that bolts to the KE1X lower control arm tot eh KE20 strut. Kinda looked like those spacers people put in lowered cars to get the control arm back on an angle. Was like a adapter plate for a carby but on the strut in stead. That was about it. rest bolted in and custom low springs.

 

Ill have to look see if I still have the photo of this.

 

Also swapping the struts left and rights doesn't seem so silly to me....tempting to try..LOL

 

But Scott did you find those pictures of how to make this sway bar bolt up with out hitting anything if you have KE30 or bigger brakes?

 

Also Stu got any more info on the other brand of sway bar you use also can you still get them and do you have pictures of it on your car and will it still fit with KE30 or bigger brakes with or with out hitting the caliper?

 

Cheers

Cameron

[parrot]

I suggest you contact Whiteline directly.

 

I received crappy illegible useless instructions, printed crooked across the page, when I got some AE86 whiteline adjustable bars in a group buy on another Corolla forum a while back.

 

Spoke to this guy. Within 24 hrs had excellent instructions with clear photo's emailed to me.

 

Wojtek Rogulski

Technical Support

---------------------------------------------------------------

* Tel: +61 2 9603 0111

* Fax: +61 2 9820 2500

* Email: [email protected]

 

If he isn't there, give them a call.

[untubbed_20]

kickn5k, do you have the full KE20 strut or just the tops with their springs?

 

I thought they didnt fit?

 

 

Theres a old dude in adelaide that did the conversion, i looked at it, but it was 10 yrs ago

I can't remember what the conversion looked like, just that it was blue ke10, and he was a member of the southern

car club and used it for mallala and motorkhanas , i thought he use a few Ke30

parts aswell. I wished later that i paid attention!

cheers

darren

[Felix]

You can put ke2x ball joints into ke1x arms. This enables the lower ke2x 2 bolt strut mount to bolt up with the complete ke2x strut. Think you would need to substitute the ke1x strut top. I don't see much advantage though, you can use the same strut inserts and brakes on ke1x struts.

 

If you were keen, I think a better way would be to graft in a ke2x xmember. At least then you could get some caster adjustment out of the front of the car.

 

As for putting the calipers to the rear to avoid contact with the whiteline bar, from memory it wont work as the tie rod end is in the road of where you would want the caliper to go.

 

I have a ke15 and ke16, both with whiteline front bars, the ke15 having ke30 discs (square pads), and the a ke16 with ke20 discs (long thin pads). I've found that the ke20 discs are a lot worse for rubbing on the swaybar end at full lock and pushing the caliper piston back in, causing a momentary loss of brakes until you pump the pedal a few times. Changing brake pads more often reduces the rubbing effect. Also winding your steering lock stops out helps, at the cost of less steering lock.

 

I wouldn't run the rear bar unless I had an LSD.

[KEI069]

You can put ke2x ball joints into ke1x arms. This enables the lower ke2x 2 bolt strut mount to bolt up with the complete ke2x strut. Think you would need to substitute the ke1x strut top. I don't see much advantage though, you can use the same strut inserts and brakes on ke1x struts.

 

If you were keen, I think a better way would be to graft in a ke2x xmember. At least then you could get some caster adjustment out of the front of the car.

 

As for putting the calipers to the rear to avoid contact with the whiteline bar, from memory it wont work as the tie rod end is in the road of where you would want the caliper to go.

 

I have a ke15 and ke16, both with whiteline front bars, the ke15 having ke30 discs (square pads), and the a ke16 with ke20 discs (long thin pads). I've found that the ke20 discs are a lot worse for rubbing on the swaybar end at full lock and pushing the caliper piston back in, causing a momentary loss of brakes until you pump the pedal a few times. Changing brake pads more often reduces the rubbing effect. Also winding your steering lock stops out helps, at the cost of less steering lock.

 

I wouldn't run the rear bar unless I had an LSD.

 

A ke20 crossmember wont fit in a 10 cause its to wide, and being a single lower control arm rather than an 'A' arm means you would have to run a castor/radius rod and weld mounts to the front chassis rail. Quite a lot of stuffing around if you ask me.

As for the brakes, once a caliper is mounted securely it moves with the stub axle and tie rod end together.

It has been quite a few years but i had this set-up on a previous ke10 i built.

[Felix]

A ke20 crossmember wont fit in a 10 cause its to wide, and being a single lower control arm rather than an 'A' arm means you would have to run a castor/radius rod and weld mounts to the front chassis rail. Quite a lot of stuffing around if you ask me.

 

Some people have made them fit. It obviously requires work, but it would be nice to be able to wind in more castor. From memory Gavclassic had a ke10 with a ke2x xmember and castor rods grafted in.

 

As for the brakes, once a caliper is mounted securely it moves with the stub axle and tie rod end together.

 

Huh? I don't think the caliper will mount at the rear, look at the following pic... The caliper will most likely foul on the steering arm if they are run at the rear.

Edited January 26, 2009 by Felix

[kickn5k]

You can put ke2x ball joints into ke1x arms. This enables the lower ke2x 2 bolt strut mount to bolt up with the complete ke2x strut. Think you would need to substitute the ke1x strut top. I don't see much advantage though, you can use the same strut inserts and brakes on ke1x struts.

 

If you were keen, I think a better way would be to graft in a ke2x xmember. At least then you could get some caster adjustment out of the front of the car.

 

wouldn't run the rear bar unless I had an LSD.

 

That is spot on from what my boss told me he did. But there is little to no advantage to using this setup only huge disadvatages. For one the cars strut towers need to be butchered for anything close to zero camber, but the caster on the up side is pretty agressive from memory and makes my 11 turn in fast.

 

As more and more my car becomes less of a cruiser and more of a street/race car I'm thinking locked diff and a 16mm rear bar.

 

stu.